infernosg's S5 N/A Build

djmtsu · 11-21-2012, 01:14 PM

Congrats on the little one!

Mine is about to turn 3, and I can't believe my DNA spawned so much awesome.

Jwteknix · 11-22-2012, 08:50 AM

Love how u wired everything great job

infernosg · 11-30-2012, 11:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by djmtsu

Congrats on the little one!

Mine is about to turn 3, and I can't believe my DNA spawned so much awesome.

Ours is just over a month now so all he pretty much does is make noise, eat, sleep, and leak from just about every orifice. I'm still waiting for said "awesome" to come

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jwteknix

Love how u wired everything great job

Thanks! I know it's not the cleanest or the prettiest but hopefully it'll get the job done.

So quick question on PCV systems. I no longer have a purge control valve or the port on the center iron. Right now I have the vent on the oil filler neck connected back to the charcoal cannister, using it like a vented catch can. Will this cause problems? Should I add a dedicated oil catch can and leave it vented or would it be better to plumb it back into the intake?

diabolical1 · 12-01-2012, 12:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by infernosg

i love what you've done so far. you and i seem to have some common tastes and goals.

anyway, i just have a question about you IAT. is it an open element or closed element sensor? i'm trying to decide which to get and i'm not sure what the pros and cons of each are.

thanks.

infernosg · 12-03-2012, 09:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by diabolical1

i love what you've done so far. you and i seem to have some common tastes and goals.

anyway, i just have a question about you IAT. is it an open element or closed element sensor? i'm trying to decide which to get and i'm not sure what the pros and cons of each are.

thanks.

The IAT is open-element. I'm using the "Haltech" IAT sensor, which I'm pretty sure is a rebadged GM sensor of some description. I'll admit I'm not familiar with the advantaged/disadvantages of either. I'm guessing the open element isn't as robust, but since mine should never see positive gage pressure or debris I'm not worried.

infernosg · 01-28-2013, 11:16 AM

It's been a while since I've updated this. Been busy with the baby for the most part but I managed to get a few things done. Painted a bunch of stuff:

Intake manifold:

T-stat cover (ground off misc. features):

Water pump:

I decided to redo the ignitor mount design a little. I went with thicker plastic spacers instead of metal for better insulation/retention:

Modified/painted the RB injector plugs. They no longer extend into the intake flowpath:

Bought/installed harness for driver's side and installed most of the interior again:

Bought a neat oil catch can so I'm not using the charcoal cannister as one:

Pulled steering rack to de-power: Before:

After:

Need to figure out a few things to the de-powering process since TitaniumTT's sticky is missing a couple pictures. Still shouldn't be too difficult.

Still waiting on my header from Logan @ Defined and put in an order for an ISC Racing front splitter. Toying with the idea of buying one of the vented hoods from Shine Auto Project.

infernosg · 01-29-2013, 08:54 AM

Got a little more work done last night. Unfortunately I can only work ~1 hour during the weeknights with my current schedule so progress is slow. Got the rack/pinion completely diassembled:

Followed TTT's how-to thread and cut off the seal on the rack, and removed the bearing to get to the snap ring holding the seals on the pinion. I also pulled the spring out of the seal on the rack support.

There's still a seal (or two?) inside the rack housing that I need to figure out how to remove so I can pull their springs as well. Next step: weld up the pinion to remove the "slop:"

infernosg · 02-01-2013, 11:04 AM

The ISC Racing splitter came in on Wednesday. It's certainly a no-frills fiberglass racing splitter. I'm going to need to be careful with this.

Their "mounting kit" was unavailable so I need to figure out my own way of installing it. I want to incorporate Dzus fasteners for ease of installation and removal.

diabolical1 · 02-01-2013, 11:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by infernosg

The IAT is open-element. I'm using the "Haltech" IAT sensor, which I'm pretty sure is a rebadged GM sensor of some description. I'll admit I'm not familiar with the advantaged/disadvantages of either. I'm guessing the open element isn't as robust, but since mine should never see positive gauge pressure or debris I'm not worried.

i've since given it some thought and i figured (at least for the IAT) that the open elements are probably be the better choice. i considered the points you mentioned, but i also figured that it might be a tad more accurate from minute to minute. it's all total conjecture on my part though.

infernosg · 02-03-2013, 09:01 PM

Got the housing cleaned up. Cut off and welded up the P/S ports on the rack housing and plugged the ports on the pinion housing with QuikSteel (no TIG and couldn't find the right bolts).

I also welded up the pinion but my welds kind of suck so I'd rather not share that picture on the internet. I just need to find a way to paint the housing (too damn cold!) and I can put everything back together again.

I also started to mess with the TII side skirts I've had lying around for over a year since I'm going to do some body work with this build. I bought the side skirts second (or third?) hand so they're missing several clips and things, which are NLA from Mazda. I'm going to have to be a little creative to install these...

infernosg · 02-11-2013, 09:44 AM

Got the steering de-power done:

I still need to find and mark "center" for reinstalling. I've counted lock-to-lock on the pinion shaft and I'm coming up somewhere between 2.5 and 3, which is weird because I'm 90% certain I had the electronically controlled (vehicle speed sensing) power steering, which is supposed to be like 3+ turns lock-to-lock. Is the inner tie rod supposed to be able to slip through the rack "plug" (the thing with the lock wire) on the passenger side? Mine doesn't.

I also picked up another set of TII side skirts in MUCH better condition than my previous ones. These still have 90% of the original clips so it'll make installing them that much easier.

I'm also in the process of selling my current 16x8 RPF1's. The new setup will be 17x9.

infernosg · 02-21-2013, 08:59 AM

New wheels and tires arrived!

17x9 +22 Enkei RPF1 in black with 255/40R17 Dunlop Direzza ZII (successor to the Star Specs):

Comparison of 255/40R17 versus 205/60R15 (what's on the car now). I'm surprised how great the diameter difference is.

Unfortunately the hub rings that came with the wheels don't fit (59.2 mm != 59.6 mm, thanks Tirerack!) so I didn't mess with mounting the wheels just yet. Here's a couple mock up shots:

Just a little bit of poke in the front

(Shine wide fenders coming soon).

Inside clearance is tight in the front but looks doable. I'll check again when the hub rings come in and I put the car back on the ground. I assume the inside clearance in the rear will be just fine but I'll likely be massaging the fenders a bit.

WE3RX7 · 02-21-2013, 10:05 AM

Nice man. The shine fronts will clear that easily. I have 17x9 +20 up front with Shine's fenders and it has plenty of clearance...

What do you plan on doing for the rear fenders?

infernosg · 02-21-2013, 10:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WE3RX7

Nice man. The shine fronts will clear that easily. I have 17x9 +20 up front with Shine's fenders and it has plenty of clearance...

What do you plan on doing for the rear fenders?

Looking at them now I could probably get them to fit up front with more camber (only at -1.5* now) and a little more rolling/pulling. When I was going through the calculations I estimated the wheels would stick out further than my previous setup (+22.7 mm) and I was told the Shine fenders were really only +20 mm.

I plan on just rolling/pulling the rear fenders since there's a lot more material to work with back there.

WE3RX7 · 02-21-2013, 08:02 PM

I honestly dont have a stock fender laying around but I'd say the front is wider than 20mm over stock... don't know on the rear (not using their rear fenders.... yet). The shine front fender has a 20 degree less cut on the arch, that may be where you got the 20mm vs the normal 30mm. They are modeled after the foresight fender which is 30mm. If you need me to take a fender off and make measurements... let me know.

11-21-2012, 01:14 PM	#76
djmtsu My minds tellin' me no... Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Murfreesboro, TN iTrader: (10) Posts: 4,043 Rep Power: 21	Congrats on the little one! Mine is about to turn 3, and I can't believe my DNA spawned so much awesome. __________________ 1976 Mazda Cosmo RX-5 1976 Mazda Cosmo RX-5 2003 Toyota Tundra TRD 2015 Toyota 4Runner SR5

11-22-2012, 08:50 AM	#77
Jwteknix Rotary Fan in Training Join Date: Mar 2011 iTrader: (0) Posts: 32 Rep Power: 0	Love how u wired everything great job __________________ -88 SE -Wht on Blk, Goopy motor, HKS TO4r, Haltech PS 1000, FD UIM, a1000 pump & FPR,....(underconstruction) -91 tII -Blk on blk -(SOLD)

01-28-2013, 11:16 AM	#81
infernosg IT'S ALIVE! Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Richmond, VA iTrader: (5) Posts: 811 Rep Power: 15	It's been a while since I've updated this. Been busy with the baby for the most part but I managed to get a few things done. Painted a bunch of stuff: Intake manifold: T-stat cover (ground off misc. features): Water pump: I decided to redo the ignitor mount design a little. I went with thicker plastic spacers instead of metal for better insulation/retention: Modified/painted the RB injector plugs. They no longer extend into the intake flowpath: Bought/installed harness for driver's side and installed most of the interior again: Bought a neat oil catch can so I'm not using the charcoal cannister as one: Pulled steering rack to de-power: Before: After: Need to figure out a few things to the de-powering process since TitaniumTT's sticky is missing a couple pictures. Still shouldn't be too difficult. Still waiting on my header from Logan @ Defined and put in an order for an ISC Racing front splitter. Toying with the idea of buying one of the vented hoods from Shine Auto Project. __________________ '86 Mazda RX-7 Base '79 Mazda RX-7 GS

01-29-2013, 08:54 AM	#82
infernosg IT'S ALIVE! Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Richmond, VA iTrader: (5) Posts: 811 Rep Power: 15	Got a little more work done last night. Unfortunately I can only work ~1 hour during the weeknights with my current schedule so progress is slow. Got the rack/pinion completely diassembled: Followed TTT's how-to thread and cut off the seal on the rack, and removed the bearing to get to the snap ring holding the seals on the pinion. I also pulled the spring out of the seal on the rack support. There's still a seal (or two?) inside the rack housing that I need to figure out how to remove so I can pull their springs as well. Next step: weld up the pinion to remove the "slop:" __________________ '86 Mazda RX-7 Base '79 Mazda RX-7 GS

02-01-2013, 11:04 AM	#83
infernosg IT'S ALIVE! Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Richmond, VA iTrader: (5) Posts: 811 Rep Power: 15	The ISC Racing splitter came in on Wednesday. It's certainly a no-frills fiberglass racing splitter. I'm going to need to be careful with this. Their "mounting kit" was unavailable so I need to figure out my own way of installing it. I want to incorporate Dzus fasteners for ease of installation and removal. __________________ '86 Mazda RX-7 Base '79 Mazda RX-7 GS

02-03-2013, 09:01 PM	#85
infernosg IT'S ALIVE! Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Richmond, VA iTrader: (5) Posts: 811 Rep Power: 15	Got the housing cleaned up. Cut off and welded up the P/S ports on the rack housing and plugged the ports on the pinion housing with QuikSteel (no TIG and couldn't find the right bolts). I also welded up the pinion but my welds kind of suck so I'd rather not share that picture on the internet. I just need to find a way to paint the housing (too damn cold!) and I can put everything back together again. I also started to mess with the TII side skirts I've had lying around for over a year since I'm going to do some body work with this build. I bought the side skirts second (or third?) hand so they're missing several clips and things, which are NLA from Mazda. I'm going to have to be a little creative to install these... __________________ '86 Mazda RX-7 Base '79 Mazda RX-7 GS

02-11-2013, 09:44 AM	#86
infernosg IT'S ALIVE! Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Richmond, VA iTrader: (5) Posts: 811 Rep Power: 15	Got the steering de-power done: I still need to find and mark "center" for reinstalling. I've counted lock-to-lock on the pinion shaft and I'm coming up somewhere between 2.5 and 3, which is weird because I'm 90% certain I had the electronically controlled (vehicle speed sensing) power steering, which is supposed to be like 3+ turns lock-to-lock. Is the inner tie rod supposed to be able to slip through the rack "plug" (the thing with the lock wire) on the passenger side? Mine doesn't. I also picked up another set of TII side skirts in MUCH better condition than my previous ones. These still have 90% of the original clips so it'll make installing them that much easier. I'm also in the process of selling my current 16x8 RPF1's. The new setup will be 17x9. __________________ '86 Mazda RX-7 Base '79 Mazda RX-7 GS

02-21-2013, 08:59 AM	#87
infernosg IT'S ALIVE! Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Richmond, VA iTrader: (5) Posts: 811 Rep Power: 15	New wheels and tires arrived! 17x9 +22 Enkei RPF1 in black with 255/40R17 Dunlop Direzza ZII (successor to the Star Specs): Comparison of 255/40R17 versus 205/60R15 (what's on the car now). I'm surprised how great the diameter difference is. Unfortunately the hub rings that came with the wheels don't fit (59.2 mm != 59.6 mm, thanks Tirerack!) so I didn't mess with mounting the wheels just yet. Here's a couple mock up shots: Just a little bit of poke in the front (Shine wide fenders coming soon). Inside clearance is tight in the front but looks doable. I'll check again when the hub rings come in and I put the car back on the ground. I assume the inside clearance in the rear will be just fine but I'll likely be massaging the fenders a bit. __________________ '86 Mazda RX-7 Base '79 Mazda RX-7 GS

02-21-2013, 10:05 AM	#88
WE3RX7 RCC Addict Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: VA iTrader: (1) Posts: 1,812 Rep Power: 18	Nice man. The shine fronts will clear that easily. I have 17x9 +20 up front with Shine's fenders and it has plenty of clearance... What do you plan on doing for the rear fenders?

02-21-2013, 08:02 PM	#90
WE3RX7 RCC Addict Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: VA iTrader: (1) Posts: 1,812 Rep Power: 18	I honestly dont have a stock fender laying around but I'd say the front is wider than 20mm over stock... don't know on the rear (not using their rear fenders.... yet). The shine front fender has a 20 degree less cut on the arch, that may be where you got the 20mm vs the normal 30mm. They are modeled after the foresight fender which is 30mm. If you need me to take a fender off and make measurements... let me know.