Mazdatrix Titanium Rotors - Page 2

IH8DSM · 03-14-2012, 07:00 AM

I'm with ted Im curious what the heat will do to the rotors and how they'll clearance accordingly seems like it would be too loose to me only good for a race or two before having to be torn down?

My5ABaby · 03-14-2012, 08:25 AM

I'm still confused how coating the rotors in something doesn't solve the problem? Ceramics, iron, whatever...

reddozen · 03-14-2012, 12:06 PM

They're using inserts in the apex seal grooves, but not the side seals. So they may still have a galling problem. I would have to agree though that TI is probably not the best material. I'd rather use a heat treated AL, or keep the outer casing a cast iron and make the guts out of a lot lighter material.

rxspeed7 · 03-14-2012, 12:55 PM

The side seals are constantly oscillating and are going to bind and gall the shit out of the side seal grooves. Not to mention the indifferent heat exspansion rates for the two metals. Side seals gaps are going to be the end of them.

reddozen · 03-15-2012, 10:28 AM

If the side plates are indeed aluminum, then I completely agree with you. Aluminum has a 270% greater thermal expansion rate than TI...

Honestly, you'd be better off making the casing and side plates out of the factory cast iron, or stainless. Grey cast is 5.8, Steal cast is 7.0, high grade stainless is in the 5.5 range, TI is 4.8, AL is 13.0.

I would be fine if they made the bearing core out of TI assuming you still pressed in a factory bearing. It's not a friction part.

03-14-2012, 07:00 AM	#16
IH8DSM RCC Contributor Join Date: Mar 2008 Posts: 610 Rep Power: 18	I'm with ted Im curious what the heat will do to the rotors and how they'll clearance accordingly seems like it would be too loose to me only good for a race or two before having to be torn down? __________________ 85 rx7 gsl-se - AA tags/ never ending project will never run

03-14-2012, 08:25 AM	#17
My5ABaby Sigh..... Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Murfreesboro, TN Posts: 2,377 Rep Power: 20	I'm still confused how coating the rotors in something doesn't solve the problem? Ceramics, iron, whatever... __________________ 1986 Sport: 132k miles, 5A (Sapphire Blue Metallic), Tokico Blues, Racing Beat Springs, Custom LED tailights (only S4 LED tails in the world), SSR Mark II, Racing Beat exhaust, S5 black interior, Rotary Resurrection rebuild at 120k miles Community Service Manual RotorWiki "Imagination costs nothing; we could build square locomotives or fly to Mars" - Felix Wankel Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, but today is a gift. That is why it is called the "present."

03-14-2012, 12:06 PM	#18
reddozen Gold Wheels FTW Join Date: Mar 2008 Posts: 744 Rep Power: 18	They're using inserts in the apex seal grooves, but not the side seals. So they may still have a galling problem. I would have to agree though that TI is probably not the best material. I'd rather use a heat treated AL, or keep the outer casing a cast iron and make the guts out of a lot lighter material. __________________ My Cars: 1974 RX4 Coupe 1991 FC3S RX7 - Sold 2003 ZZW30 MR2 (Rotary swap after RX8) 2004 SE3P RX8 (20B Swap in the works)

03-15-2012, 10:28 AM	#20
reddozen Gold Wheels FTW Join Date: Mar 2008 Posts: 744 Rep Power: 18	If the side plates are indeed aluminum, then I completely agree with you. Aluminum has a 270% greater thermal expansion rate than TI... Honestly, you'd be better off making the casing and side plates out of the factory cast iron, or stainless. Grey cast is 5.8, Steal cast is 7.0, high grade stainless is in the 5.5 range, TI is 4.8, AL is 13.0. I would be fine if they made the bearing core out of TI assuming you still pressed in a factory bearing. It's not a friction part. __________________ My Cars: 1974 RX4 Coupe 1991 FC3S RX7 - Sold 2003 ZZW30 MR2 (Rotary swap after RX8) 2004 SE3P RX8 (20B Swap in the works)