Twin Charged FD - Fraternal Twins

RX SE7EN · 03-09-2012, 12:47 AM

My garage is a mess due to the move, so after 2 hours of looking for a bolt the other night, I decided I better clean it up and get organized.

The biggest obstacle is the engine crane. I have an engine stand, but no adapter for a rotary. So I had to make one, this will allow me to wheel the engine into the corner on a stand, and fold up the crane. This will give me enough space to put the car on dolleys and spin it sideways and work on it in the middle of the garage with plenty of room to work on it.

Here is how to make a rotary engine adapter for a standard stand.

4 feet of home depot 1/4" thick steel 2" angle iron
A bunch of bolts and some good drill bits.
Angle grinder to cut the angle iron
Drill

Two pieces of angle iron cut, with holes drilled. These both have 3 holes on one side so you can bolt them together. One has 2 holes that bolt to the piece that came with the stand, and the other has 4 holes that bolt to the front iron on the block:

Here you can see I drilled 2 new holes in the piece that came with the stand. This allows me to center the weight of the engine a little better.

How much space it was taking up:

Decided to tear down the long block. I've never had a stock engine before, now I know why people don't like to work on them haha. Single turbo engines are so much cleaner and easy to maintain.

Pile of junk (most of it is pretty well cooked):

RX SE7EN · 03-09-2012, 12:51 AM

And since I'm ready to bolt on the water pump housing and water pump and new LIM and fuel system, I figured why not clean the block up a little:

primer:

Paint (I know this isn't the nicest way to do it, but i don't have much time before the shootout, and I covered everything that anyone would ever see anyways)

Once I get all the other pieces powdercoated it's going to look amazing.

RX SE7EN · 03-12-2012, 09:41 AM

Had a somewhat productive weekend, although I didn't get as much done as I had wanted. Turns out i don't have the right style crimp tool to do the crimps needed for the injectors and fuel pumps. So I need to try to find a good one and order it today.

I did get the cat installed though, had to move the borla resonator back as far as I could, and then the cat fit perfectly.

This will probably hurt my hp up top, but I don't think I'll have the usual negative impact of backpressure causing lag, my supercharger should offset that.

RX SE7EN · 03-12-2012, 09:49 AM

I also redid the supercharger intake pipe. For last year's deals gap I was running out of time and kept having to hack this pipe up to clear the oil fill pedelstal. I ended up still not getting it to clear and having to bash the piece with a hamer to make it clear.

Now that I've relocated the oil fil, and have the extra clearance from removing the oil fil pedestal completely, and blocking the hole off with a freeze plug, I remade the piece the way it was originally supposed to be. The dipstick was another obstacle, but I made it around it. Even ported it all on the inside for nice smooth flow:

This piece was extremely complex. The clearance at the back of the supercharger was tough, and then the pipe has to curve up between the alternator and UIM to go to the turbo. Space is supper tight there, as the engine block gets in the way (the raised part on the front iron with the two bolt holes on it), as well as the secondary fuel rail being an issue. But I finally got it to work.

I also finished the primary fuel rail/vacuum block. The rail is from CJ Motorsports, and I modified it's spacers to hold my vacuum block. This vacuum block has one -6 AN bung that connects to the UIM, from here, all -4AN lines spider out to everything else (boost controller, FPR, blow off valvle, etc...), and one -6 AN line to the brake booster.

This started off as a 1 foot long 1.5" square piece of aluminum stock. All machining done by my trusty drill and sawzall and when that died i toughed it out with my hack saw haha.

RX SE7EN · 03-12-2012, 09:54 AM

And the piping is done

who wants a twincharger kit? haha

speedjunkie · 03-13-2012, 09:03 AM

So I assume you're nearing the end of this project, correct? I've been following the thread and this is one of those things I'd never have the guts to take on lol. Nice work and I can't wait to see it finished and see what it'll do.

RX SE7EN · 03-13-2012, 07:04 PM

Getting pretty close. The major fabrication is done. Now it's just some wiring, porting all the rough edges in the piping, making AN lines, brake lines, vacuum lines, cleaning stuff up and bolting it together.

Then a little body work on my r magic fenders too. i sure hope it works haha.

RX SE7EN · 04-01-2012, 01:18 AM

Made some decent progress today. Dropped the powdercoated alternator housing off at IRP and their alternator supplier is putting 140amp internals into it next week.

Finished my oil fill and catch can, I love it:

Cleaned the brake booster up, drilled out the vacuum nipple, painted it, and installed the -6AN check valve for a much cleaner look:
Drilled, Cleaned, and Primed:

Painted:

-6AN check valve installed:

Worked on the fuel system, manged to get the old spacers and diffusers out, and swapped in these fancy O-ring style spacers from CJ Motorsports. Using the same for the secondaries too:

RX SE7EN · 04-01-2012, 01:23 AM

Out with the old and in with the new (new is the twin setup, old is the Aeromotive Tsunami). This moves me from 500whp capacity to about 700.

Pics of the Hyperion fuel anti-surge cover:

Should do the trick when I finally make it to the track.

RX SE7EN · 04-05-2012, 12:04 AM

It's crunch time for deals gap, so I've been pulling some long nights during the week. The engine bay is pretty much back together.

The new LIM is installed and looking pretty, here is a side by side comparison of what I turned the stock one into:

Also, here is my version of a sweet vacuum line. This is a -6AN line for the brake booster, all other lines will be -4AN. Please note that you can't just use any braided hose, it has to be rated for vacuum (not many are).

Bare hose:

Raychem (deisel retardent milspec heat shrink for wire harnesses), this will make sure the SS hose never rubs through anything, and also keeps the theme by being black (using Raychem is overkill, but I have a lot of it, and this is non-name brand anyways). I had to use SS because the braided nylon hoses available are not raided for vacuum.

Seal the ends with 4:1 adhesive lined heat shrink:

This is good prep for making the wiring harness this weekend haha.

RX SE7EN · 04-05-2012, 12:08 AM

Also cleaned up the radiator and it's brackets. Then I painted them black with VHT Epoxy paint. I wish I had found this type of spray paint a long long time ago, it's soo much tougher than anything else I've used.

This will all be powdercoated eventually, but don't have time before deals gap.

FerociousP · 04-05-2012, 09:47 AM

That epoxy is good stuff... I touched up some rust on my truck with it and it matches the 20yr old (now satin) paint perfectly. I also used it on chassis components like the sway bar and skid plate, etc. Really nice clean looking black without being to glossy.

RX SE7EN · 04-07-2012, 11:10 AM

Got my 929 master cylinder. Machined the one port flat so I can use banjo bolts on both of them (to save space in the area). Then painted black of course.

This will keep the pedal feeling good for the BBK

calicrewchief · 04-07-2012, 05:18 PM

Great work and progress! Where could I find one of those check valves for the brake booster?

RX SE7EN · 04-07-2012, 11:04 PM

Jegs has them.

03-12-2012, 09:49 AM	#154
RX SE7EN Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2010 iTrader: (0) Posts: 183 Rep Power: 15	I also redid the supercharger intake pipe. For last year's deals gap I was running out of time and kept having to hack this pipe up to clear the oil fill pedelstal. I ended up still not getting it to clear and having to bash the piece with a hamer to make it clear. Now that I've relocated the oil fil, and have the extra clearance from removing the oil fil pedestal completely, and blocking the hole off with a freeze plug, I remade the piece the way it was originally supposed to be. The dipstick was another obstacle, but I made it around it. Even ported it all on the inside for nice smooth flow: This piece was extremely complex. The clearance at the back of the supercharger was tough, and then the pipe has to curve up between the alternator and UIM to go to the turbo. Space is supper tight there, as the engine block gets in the way (the raised part on the front iron with the two bolt holes on it), as well as the secondary fuel rail being an issue. But I finally got it to work. I also finished the primary fuel rail/vacuum block. The rail is from CJ Motorsports, and I modified it's spacers to hold my vacuum block. This vacuum block has one -6 AN bung that connects to the UIM, from here, all -4AN lines spider out to everything else (boost controller, FPR, blow off valvle, etc...), and one -6 AN line to the brake booster. This started off as a 1 foot long 1.5" square piece of aluminum stock. All machining done by my trusty drill and sawzall and when that died i toughed it out with my hack saw haha. Last edited by RX SE7EN; 03-12-2012 at 09:53 AM..

04-05-2012, 09:47 AM	#162
FerociousP I-had-a-bad-experience... Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: M'boro iTrader: (2) Posts: 1,046 Rep Power: 18	That epoxy is good stuff... I touched up some rust on my truck with it and it matches the 20yr old (now satin) paint perfectly. I also used it on chassis components like the sway bar and skid plate, etc. Really nice clean looking black without being to glossy. __________________ '15 Juke Nismo '06 MX-5 GT SOLD '04 S Silver RX-8 GT Track Day Use SOLD '90 Black TII vert w/ Sprint RE stock port/turbo DD dyno (242.6whp@5500rpm @12psi 8psi@redline) and (250ftlbtq@4800rpm @13psi) SOLD '89 GTUs 6p TII SOLD, '87 sport SOLD, '79 SA stock SOLD '91 B2600i 4x4 w/ Rx-8 LSD SOLD Last edited by FerociousP; 04-05-2012 at 09:51 AM..

03-09-2012, 12:47 AM	#151
RX SE7EN Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2010 iTrader: (0) Posts: 183 Rep Power: 15	My garage is a mess due to the move, so after 2 hours of looking for a bolt the other night, I decided I better clean it up and get organized. The biggest obstacle is the engine crane. I have an engine stand, but no adapter for a rotary. So I had to make one, this will allow me to wheel the engine into the corner on a stand, and fold up the crane. This will give me enough space to put the car on dolleys and spin it sideways and work on it in the middle of the garage with plenty of room to work on it. Here is how to make a rotary engine adapter for a standard stand. 4 feet of home depot 1/4" thick steel 2" angle iron A bunch of bolts and some good drill bits. Angle grinder to cut the angle iron Drill Two pieces of angle iron cut, with holes drilled. These both have 3 holes on one side so you can bolt them together. One has 2 holes that bolt to the piece that came with the stand, and the other has 4 holes that bolt to the front iron on the block: Here you can see I drilled 2 new holes in the piece that came with the stand. This allows me to center the weight of the engine a little better. How much space it was taking up: Decided to tear down the long block. I've never had a stock engine before, now I know why people don't like to work on them haha. Single turbo engines are so much cleaner and easy to maintain. Pile of junk (most of it is pretty well cooked):

03-09-2012, 12:51 AM	#152
RX SE7EN Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2010 iTrader: (0) Posts: 183 Rep Power: 15	And since I'm ready to bolt on the water pump housing and water pump and new LIM and fuel system, I figured why not clean the block up a little: primer: Paint (I know this isn't the nicest way to do it, but i don't have much time before the shootout, and I covered everything that anyone would ever see anyways) Once I get all the other pieces powdercoated it's going to look amazing.

03-12-2012, 09:41 AM	#153
RX SE7EN Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2010 iTrader: (0) Posts: 183 Rep Power: 15	Had a somewhat productive weekend, although I didn't get as much done as I had wanted. Turns out i don't have the right style crimp tool to do the crimps needed for the injectors and fuel pumps. So I need to try to find a good one and order it today. I did get the cat installed though, had to move the borla resonator back as far as I could, and then the cat fit perfectly. This will probably hurt my hp up top, but I don't think I'll have the usual negative impact of backpressure causing lag, my supercharger should offset that.

03-12-2012, 09:54 AM	#155
RX SE7EN Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2010 iTrader: (0) Posts: 183 Rep Power: 15	And the piping is done who wants a twincharger kit? haha

03-13-2012, 09:03 AM	#156
speedjunkie RCC Loves Me Not You Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Colorado Springs, CO iTrader: (1) Posts: 2,089 Rep Power: 19	So I assume you're nearing the end of this project, correct? I've been following the thread and this is one of those things I'd never have the guts to take on lol. Nice work and I can't wait to see it finished and see what it'll do.

03-13-2012, 07:04 PM	#157
RX SE7EN Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2010 iTrader: (0) Posts: 183 Rep Power: 15	Getting pretty close. The major fabrication is done. Now it's just some wiring, porting all the rough edges in the piping, making AN lines, brake lines, vacuum lines, cleaning stuff up and bolting it together. Then a little body work on my r magic fenders too. i sure hope it works haha.

04-01-2012, 01:18 AM	#158
RX SE7EN Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2010 iTrader: (0) Posts: 183 Rep Power: 15	Made some decent progress today. Dropped the powdercoated alternator housing off at IRP and their alternator supplier is putting 140amp internals into it next week. Finished my oil fill and catch can, I love it: Cleaned the brake booster up, drilled out the vacuum nipple, painted it, and installed the -6AN check valve for a much cleaner look: Drilled, Cleaned, and Primed: Painted: -6AN check valve installed: Worked on the fuel system, manged to get the old spacers and diffusers out, and swapped in these fancy O-ring style spacers from CJ Motorsports. Using the same for the secondaries too:

04-01-2012, 01:23 AM	#159
RX SE7EN Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2010 iTrader: (0) Posts: 183 Rep Power: 15	Out with the old and in with the new (new is the twin setup, old is the Aeromotive Tsunami). This moves me from 500whp capacity to about 700. Pics of the Hyperion fuel anti-surge cover: Should do the trick when I finally make it to the track.

04-05-2012, 12:04 AM	#160
RX SE7EN Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2010 iTrader: (0) Posts: 183 Rep Power: 15	It's crunch time for deals gap, so I've been pulling some long nights during the week. The engine bay is pretty much back together. The new LIM is installed and looking pretty, here is a side by side comparison of what I turned the stock one into: Also, here is my version of a sweet vacuum line. This is a -6AN line for the brake booster, all other lines will be -4AN. Please note that you can't just use any braided hose, it has to be rated for vacuum (not many are). Bare hose: Raychem (deisel retardent milspec heat shrink for wire harnesses), this will make sure the SS hose never rubs through anything, and also keeps the theme by being black (using Raychem is overkill, but I have a lot of it, and this is non-name brand anyways). I had to use SS because the braided nylon hoses available are not raided for vacuum. Seal the ends with 4:1 adhesive lined heat shrink: This is good prep for making the wiring harness this weekend haha.

04-05-2012, 12:08 AM	#161
RX SE7EN Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2010 iTrader: (0) Posts: 183 Rep Power: 15	Also cleaned up the radiator and it's brackets. Then I painted them black with VHT Epoxy paint. I wish I had found this type of spray paint a long long time ago, it's soo much tougher than anything else I've used. This will all be powdercoated eventually, but don't have time before deals gap.

04-07-2012, 11:10 AM	#163
RX SE7EN Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2010 iTrader: (0) Posts: 183 Rep Power: 15	Got my 929 master cylinder. Machined the one port flat so I can use banjo bolts on both of them (to save space in the area). Then painted black of course. This will keep the pedal feeling good for the BBK

04-07-2012, 05:18 PM	#164
calicrewchief Rotary Tuner in Training Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Beaverton, OR iTrader: (0) Posts: 69 Rep Power: 16	Great work and progress! Where could I find one of those check valves for the brake booster?

04-07-2012, 11:04 PM	#165
RX SE7EN Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2010 iTrader: (0) Posts: 183 Rep Power: 15	Jegs has them.