Twin Charged FD - Fraternal Twins

RX SE7EN · 01-22-2012, 10:48 PM

I actually got some work done this weekend.

Anyone that road home with me from deals gap last year knows how much oil I was leaking, so I finally tackled it. I got a new pan, a new level sensor (the wire broke off my old one), and a Banzai Racing oil pan brace.

You don't have to remove the subframe to do this, but I did for another reason, which you'll see pop up later.

First step: remove motor mount nuts and jack up transmission. Then drop the subframe and remove the pan.

Be careful when using a battery powered impact driver to remove the bolts. I got this nice new milwakee driver and drill kit and of course the first time i use it i leave it on tighten instead of loosen and break the bolt off imediately.

Luckly, I was able to gouge a little notch in it and turn it by tapping the edge of a flat head screwdriver with a hammer. I was able to get it out far enough to then get some vicegrips on it. That was a close one.

Installed new level sensor on new oil pan.

Clean the block and also tap the holes to get any old sealant and dirt out:

Dimpled rear iron for a little extra adhesion:

All done (with powdercoated subframe and stainless hardware):

RX SE7EN · 01-22-2012, 11:36 PM

And here is my first attempt at a "how to" video. Be gentle, haha.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lUGvK...ature=youtu.be

***TitaniumTT*** · 01-23-2012, 12:28 AM

Nice dude.... looks great. Any pics from the top for the rest? I'll see it tomorrow

Prodigy · 01-23-2012, 08:59 PM

how much was the oil pan, and level sensor... my wire broke too, and my pan might be a bit warped... lol

J.

RX SE7EN · 01-24-2012, 11:36 AM

I can't remember, I bought it about 8 months ago. Give Ray at Malloy Mazda a call. I think all in the total was around $125, but you should get a brace too. Banzai or Garfinkle.

RENESISFD · 02-01-2012, 04:11 PM

$125 for both the sensor and the oil pan? I think the oilpan was about $125.00 from ray. I bought one about 1 month ago.

BTW, How does the powder coater clean and sandblast the inside of the subframe and powder coat it? Seems like it would be very hard to get to.

John

RX SE7EN · 02-02-2012, 09:33 AM

He just puts it in his booth and sandblasts it, anything on the inside that the sandblaster can't get to just retains the factory coating. And then he just flows the powdercoat in it and it coats everything it can get to (at least as much as the sand blaster got). So there are probably a few spots deep inside that are still black, but they aren't visible unless I was to cut it open.

RENESISFD · 02-06-2012, 10:29 AM

Got ya, Thanks for the reply, that is what I thought.

John

RX SE7EN · 02-13-2012, 11:04 PM

Here are the pics of the spacer welded on, I still have to grind down the welds to make it smooth:

A few welds on the back for strength:

The old V-band clamp that was trimmed for clearance:

Installed, now I have clearance, before, the cutout on the vband was almost touching the LIM: (I was able to keep the two lower studs on the engine, but the top two studs will be changed to bolts so that I can remove and install the manifold without taking the engine out of the car)

Now my new vband clamp can sit like this, and won't need a cutout:

modified compressor housing:

Here you can see the powdercoated subframe:

RX SE7EN · 02-13-2012, 11:04 PM

And my modified UIM that is almost finished. Still need to grind down some welds and polish it up. Then send it for powdercoat.

There won't really be any improvement in performance (maybe a little less heat soak), but it looks damn cool.

***TitaniumTT*** · 02-13-2012, 11:25 PM

SHOW THE VAC BLOCK!!!! Please?

RX SE7EN · 02-15-2012, 11:59 PM

^ will do, but for now this will have to tide you over haha.

Almost done with the oil fill neck and fill line:

Catch can is almost done, you can see holes on the side for the sight glass, the filter, and also a -4AN bung that connects it to the oil fill neck. So this will act as the ventillation system. I still need to grind down some of the welds. (This can also matches the AST)

Fills through the old rear turbo drain:

-10 AN stainless steel braided line with fireflex insulation over it because it runs right by the exhaust manifold.

I now have a 31mm freeze plug hammered into the port on the middle iron where the original fill neck use to be. Now I have tons of clearance for my supercharger inlet.

I also worked on the flanges for the radiator tonight. Now I have flanges all around the radiator to hold the ductwork in place. Now I just need to bend the sheet metal and rivet it together.

RX SE7EN · 02-19-2012, 09:11 AM

Making some good progress this weekend. Unfortunately I can't work on it today because I've got to go pick up an extra engine and that will take all day.

Also, I'm converting to E85 temporarily, so I need to pick up a few new parts.

It's so nice to actually see it coming together now, before this, I could only really picture it in my head.

afgmoto1978 · 02-20-2012, 02:27 PM

Who makes that air pump delete idler wheel kit?

Thanks

***TitaniumTT*** · 02-20-2012, 03:04 PM

Tweakit Racing. A MUST for anyone who deleted thier air pump and likes thier bearings

01-22-2012, 10:48 PM	#106
RX SE7EN Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2010 iTrader: (0) Posts: 183 Rep Power: 15	I actually got some work done this weekend. Anyone that road home with me from deals gap last year knows how much oil I was leaking, so I finally tackled it. I got a new pan, a new level sensor (the wire broke off my old one), and a Banzai Racing oil pan brace. You don't have to remove the subframe to do this, but I did for another reason, which you'll see pop up later. First step: remove motor mount nuts and jack up transmission. Then drop the subframe and remove the pan. Be careful when using a battery powered impact driver to remove the bolts. I got this nice new milwakee driver and drill kit and of course the first time i use it i leave it on tighten instead of loosen and break the bolt off imediately. Luckly, I was able to gouge a little notch in it and turn it by tapping the edge of a flat head screwdriver with a hammer. I was able to get it out far enough to then get some vicegrips on it. That was a close one. Installed new level sensor on new oil pan. Clean the block and also tap the holes to get any old sealant and dirt out: Dimpled rear iron for a little extra adhesion: All done (with powdercoated subframe and stainless hardware): Last edited by RX SE7EN; 01-22-2012 at 10:50 PM..

01-23-2012, 12:28 AM	#108
*TitaniumTT* Test Whore - Admin Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Right Behind you son iTrader: (4) Posts: 4,581 Rep Power: 10	Nice dude.... looks great. Any pics from the top for the rest? I'll see it tomorrow __________________ -The Angry Stig- DGRR 2009, 2011, 2012 & 2013 - Best FC DEALS GAP!! WOOHOOOO!!!!! 2015 Audi S4 - Samantha - Zero Brap S4 2004 RX8 - Jocelyn - 196rwhp, 19mpg fuel to noise converter 2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport - Wifey mobile - Now with 2.5" OME lift and 30" BFG AT KO's! So it begins 1998 Jeep Cherokee - 5 spd, 4" lift, 33" BFG's - Rotary Tow Vehicle 1988 'Vert - In progress 1988 FC Coupe - Gretchen -The attention whore BEAST! I'm a sick individual, what's wrong with you? I'm pure Evil I'm still insane, in the best possible way. I think Brian's idea of romance is using lube. Your rage caused the meteor strike in Russia. The Antichrist would be proud of his minion. You win with your thread. Most everything It's a truck with a steel gate on the back. Just a statement of fact Motec M820, AIM dash, ported 13B-RE Cosmo, 6-spd trans, 4.3 Torsen, custom twin wg fully divided mani, Custom 4" split into 2x 3" exhaust, Custom HMIC, Custom custom custom custom I like to welder stuff.... No Bolt-ons allowed. Dyno'ed @ Speed1 Tuned by me - 405rwhp on WG.... WM50 cuming soon. *-Angry Motherfcker Mode ENGAGED-**

02-01-2012, 04:11 PM	#111
RENESISFD Rotary Fan in Training Join Date: Jul 2011 iTrader: (0) Posts: 50 Rep Power: 14	$125 for both the sensor and the oil pan? I think the oilpan was about $125.00 from ray. I bought one about 1 month ago. BTW, How does the powder coater clean and sandblast the inside of the subframe and powder coat it? Seems like it would be very hard to get to. John Last edited by RENESISFD; 02-01-2012 at 04:13 PM..

02-13-2012, 11:25 PM	#116
*TitaniumTT* Test Whore - Admin Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Right Behind you son iTrader: (4) Posts: 4,581 Rep Power: 10	SHOW THE VAC BLOCK!!!! Please? __________________ -The Angry Stig- DGRR 2009, 2011, 2012 & 2013 - Best FC DEALS GAP!! WOOHOOOO!!!!! 2015 Audi S4 - Samantha - Zero Brap S4 2004 RX8 - Jocelyn - 196rwhp, 19mpg fuel to noise converter 2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport - Wifey mobile - Now with 2.5" OME lift and 30" BFG AT KO's! So it begins 1998 Jeep Cherokee - 5 spd, 4" lift, 33" BFG's - Rotary Tow Vehicle 1988 'Vert - In progress 1988 FC Coupe - Gretchen -The attention whore BEAST! I'm a sick individual, what's wrong with you? I'm pure Evil I'm still insane, in the best possible way. I think Brian's idea of romance is using lube. Your rage caused the meteor strike in Russia. The Antichrist would be proud of his minion. You win with your thread. Most everything It's a truck with a steel gate on the back. Just a statement of fact Motec M820, AIM dash, ported 13B-RE Cosmo, 6-spd trans, 4.3 Torsen, custom twin wg fully divided mani, Custom 4" split into 2x 3" exhaust, Custom HMIC, Custom custom custom custom I like to welder stuff.... No Bolt-ons allowed. Dyno'ed @ Speed1 Tuned by me - 405rwhp on WG.... WM50 cuming soon. *-Angry Motherfcker Mode ENGAGED-**

02-20-2012, 03:04 PM	#120
*TitaniumTT* Test Whore - Admin Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Right Behind you son iTrader: (4) Posts: 4,581 Rep Power: 10	Tweakit Racing. A MUST for anyone who deleted thier air pump and likes thier bearings __________________ -The Angry Stig- DGRR 2009, 2011, 2012 & 2013 - Best FC DEALS GAP!! WOOHOOOO!!!!! 2015 Audi S4 - Samantha - Zero Brap S4 2004 RX8 - Jocelyn - 196rwhp, 19mpg fuel to noise converter 2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport - Wifey mobile - Now with 2.5" OME lift and 30" BFG AT KO's! So it begins 1998 Jeep Cherokee - 5 spd, 4" lift, 33" BFG's - Rotary Tow Vehicle 1988 'Vert - In progress 1988 FC Coupe - Gretchen -The attention whore BEAST! I'm a sick individual, what's wrong with you? I'm pure Evil I'm still insane, in the best possible way. I think Brian's idea of romance is using lube. Your rage caused the meteor strike in Russia. The Antichrist would be proud of his minion. You win with your thread. Most everything It's a truck with a steel gate on the back. Just a statement of fact Motec M820, AIM dash, ported 13B-RE Cosmo, 6-spd trans, 4.3 Torsen, custom twin wg fully divided mani, Custom 4" split into 2x 3" exhaust, Custom HMIC, Custom custom custom custom I like to welder stuff.... No Bolt-ons allowed. Dyno'ed @ Speed1 Tuned by me - 405rwhp on WG.... WM50 cuming soon. *-Angry Motherfcker Mode ENGAGED-**

01-22-2012, 11:36 PM	#107
RX SE7EN Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2010 iTrader: (0) Posts: 183 Rep Power: 15	And here is my first attempt at a "how to" video. Be gentle, haha. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lUGvK...ature=youtu.be

01-24-2012, 11:36 AM	#110
RX SE7EN Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2010 iTrader: (0) Posts: 183 Rep Power: 15	I can't remember, I bought it about 8 months ago. Give Ray at Malloy Mazda a call. I think all in the total was around $125, but you should get a brace too. Banzai or Garfinkle.

02-02-2012, 09:33 AM	#112
RX SE7EN Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2010 iTrader: (0) Posts: 183 Rep Power: 15	He just puts it in his booth and sandblasts it, anything on the inside that the sandblaster can't get to just retains the factory coating. And then he just flows the powdercoat in it and it coats everything it can get to (at least as much as the sand blaster got). So there are probably a few spots deep inside that are still black, but they aren't visible unless I was to cut it open.

02-06-2012, 10:29 AM	#113
RENESISFD Rotary Fan in Training Join Date: Jul 2011 iTrader: (0) Posts: 50 Rep Power: 14	Got ya, Thanks for the reply, that is what I thought. John

02-13-2012, 11:04 PM	#114
RX SE7EN Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2010 iTrader: (0) Posts: 183 Rep Power: 15	Here are the pics of the spacer welded on, I still have to grind down the welds to make it smooth: A few welds on the back for strength: The old V-band clamp that was trimmed for clearance: Installed, now I have clearance, before, the cutout on the vband was almost touching the LIM: (I was able to keep the two lower studs on the engine, but the top two studs will be changed to bolts so that I can remove and install the manifold without taking the engine out of the car) Now my new vband clamp can sit like this, and won't need a cutout: modified compressor housing: Here you can see the powdercoated subframe:

02-13-2012, 11:04 PM	#115
RX SE7EN Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2010 iTrader: (0) Posts: 183 Rep Power: 15	And my modified UIM that is almost finished. Still need to grind down some welds and polish it up. Then send it for powdercoat. There won't really be any improvement in performance (maybe a little less heat soak), but it looks damn cool.

02-15-2012, 11:59 PM	#117
RX SE7EN Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2010 iTrader: (0) Posts: 183 Rep Power: 15	^ will do, but for now this will have to tide you over haha. Almost done with the oil fill neck and fill line: Catch can is almost done, you can see holes on the side for the sight glass, the filter, and also a -4AN bung that connects it to the oil fill neck. So this will act as the ventillation system. I still need to grind down some of the welds. (This can also matches the AST) Fills through the old rear turbo drain: -10 AN stainless steel braided line with fireflex insulation over it because it runs right by the exhaust manifold. I now have a 31mm freeze plug hammered into the port on the middle iron where the original fill neck use to be. Now I have tons of clearance for my supercharger inlet. I also worked on the flanges for the radiator tonight. Now I have flanges all around the radiator to hold the ductwork in place. Now I just need to bend the sheet metal and rivet it together.

02-19-2012, 09:11 AM	#118
RX SE7EN Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2010 iTrader: (0) Posts: 183 Rep Power: 15	Making some good progress this weekend. Unfortunately I can't work on it today because I've got to go pick up an extra engine and that will take all day. Also, I'm converting to E85 temporarily, so I need to pick up a few new parts. It's so nice to actually see it coming together now, before this, I could only really picture it in my head.

02-20-2012, 02:27 PM	#119
afgmoto1978 Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Portland, Oregon iTrader: (2) Posts: 381 Rep Power: 17	Who makes that air pump delete idler wheel kit? Thanks