New FB owner, project, teardown, and questions. Pictures too.

[N.RotaryTech]

Right.
Thats why I have the "Junk" trans, its an FB trans. Going to use the tail section.

The problem is my FB drive-shaft doesn't bolt up to the Diff, not even close.

[jfaplanet]

You probably need a 83-85 driveshaft. The earlier ones had a smaller mounting point to bolt to the rear diff. An easy way to tell is to look at your FB driveshaft, if the u joints are removable, then its an early one. Hope this helps your cause.

[t_g_farrell]

Don't cut up those drive shafts just get the right one like jfaplanet says. That
would be the cheapest solution as well. Sell the others for profit!

I can't wait to see this one back with a rotary in it. Maybe Tray will take note.

[lt1_fd3s]

tim... i don't have any 1st gen's with V8s...

[t_g_farrell]

Originally Posted by lt1_fd3s

tim... i don't have any 1st gen's with V8s...

Your splitting hairs, you have rotarys with v8s. Enough said.

BTW, Jimmy Johnson wants his car back in time for Daytona

[N.RotaryTech]

^ Everyone just calm down.


Uhg, starting to feel some self brought on pressure.
I want to bring this to DGRR, running! lol.
I have a feeling its not going to be in the "Finished" condition I want it to be in by DGRR.
But at least I can get it in running condition.

To do that I need to:
Turn around front cross member.
Fit engine and trans in.
Fab up driver-side trans mount.
Repair front cover studs.
Decide what engine to use between: stock S4 13b, bridge-port S4 13B (needs to be rebuilt).
Decide if to install turbo setup (the one I used on the FC), and fab up whats necessary for that setup, and install parts.
Get the drive-shaft/diff. issue sorted out.
Buy a Haltech and install.
Fab up mounting places/points for battery, coils, oil-cooler, possibly radiator too, misc. wiring and fuse box.
Go through the wiring through out the car, remove some aftermarket wiring, make sure everything else works.
Check out brakes, repair whats necessary.
Fab up a dash.
Fab up a seat.
Replace door seals
Reinstall sun-roof.
Wash windows.
Get it insured and tagged.
Drive it.
Tune it.
Drive it some more.

I think that's it.

If I have time after all that:
Upgrade suspension, (lowering springs, shocks, coil-overs, bushings, etc).
Replace interior with some custom pieces.
Customize rear bumper area.
Customize front bumper area.
Customize sun roof.
Paint exterior of car.
Customize headlights.
Buy wider wheels and tires, install.
Customize fenders around the wheels.


Lol, I feel this project hasn't even begun.
I have 14 and a half weeks to get this done.

[N.RotaryTech]

So, this car ain't going to make it to DGRR this year.

Got back at it today after something like 2 weeks of not touching it.

Still going backwards in the progress.


The wiring harness is a mess.
There are some aftermarket wires mixed in, spots where a wire had too much current running through it and burned through, and corrosion.
Some of the damaged spots in it.




This is under the dash.


A few days ago I downloaded the wiring diagram from "foxed.ca" (rx7 manuals). I can't get to the site right now for some reason, but there are links to the site in various threads on RCC.

Eventually I'll be going through and repairing the wiring.

[djmtsu]

You should just buy my FB

Use this one for parts. Problem solved!

[rotarycrazy]

i ran into the same problem when I had my SA figured out it was the main power cable going to the starter that had bin shorting out on the chassy and overheating all the wiring in turn melting the whole bundle together going throu the fire wall making the headlights blink when you turned a turn signal on.

[88turboii]

Originally Posted by djmtsu

You should just buy my FB

Use this one for parts. Problem solved!

+1 just sell this heap and start with an FB that runs

[heavyarms89]

if you scrap the dash i call dibs i want a black dash especially a series one dash

[N.RotaryTech]

My FB bit my thumb this morning while removing the fuel tank.
I was trying to loosen the clamp on the filler tube using a tool with a pushing motion when It slipped off, my thumb went into the bodywork behind the bumper.
(Left side of picture. That edge where body was cut.)


My thumb after running cold water over it. There is a small flap of skin I can lift up.
Picture from phone, sorry for quality.

[Whizbang]

Originally Posted by djmtsu

If you are using an S4 trans, just get the tail section of an FB trans and put it on the FC trans. Then you can use your FB driveshaft.

And yes, FB's did have tan/brown interiors. Charles has a complete doo-doo FB at his house right now!

Ive never had problems just using whatever S2, S3 or S4 transmission in my FB with the driveshaft. Its usually more of a transmission mount issue.

[N.RotaryTech]

So getting back to this thing. And to add to the confusion. lol.

Ive got a dummy engine bolted in the car using the front cover mount, and a 13b trans bolted up to it held in place by a jack-stand.

My 1st question is: Dose this look right? Is that the way the mount goes?


But the answer to that question probably doesn't matter because for one thing, I plan to fabricate some engine mounting points for a 13b, and also because the way the trans doesn't line up the way I thought it would.

This is the way the trans mounting location looks.

The left side of the picture is toward the front of the car.
Is this right?

I have a junk 12a trans for reference. And the trans mount holes are about the same location as the holes on the 13b. 21&1/2 to 22 inches from the front of the trans to the mounting holes.

Similar dimensions that are the same on both transmissions are: Front of trans to output-shaft = 32"

The only thing different is the shifter location.
From the front of trans to the end of the shifter socket: On the 13b = 34", the 12a = 33".

Picture of the shifter hole.


I kinda knew that the shifter location would be off. But I thought that the trans mounting location would line up.

This is the engine location with that mount. Looks like a good location.


So I got to figure out where i want this thing and what to do about mounting locations.
I want to fabricate engine mounts for a 13b.
I thought I could use / want to use the stock location for the trans.
Other considerations that go along with this are the:
Drive-shaft: Use an FB or FC or Custom?
And while I'm at it, do I change the differential to a independent suspension type?
Also, what about an oil-pan?

Ugh!

[GySgtFrank]

My experience is from putting in a NA 87 13B and transmission.

The 13B will sit a little farther forward than the 12A (13B is longer) if you use the stock transmission mount location. Which means either modifying your existing mount or buying a mount from Racing Beat.

The FB drivehaft should work with the FC trans in the stock location (mine did), FC won't as it's too short. I'm unsure why your driveshaft does not bolt up to the diff flange. I thought the bolt pattern was the same on the FBs, but evidently not. I'll have to go check my swap diff now.

You'll want to use the GSL-SE 13B oil pan and pickup so it will clear the steering arms. The stock trans mount will push the FC trans quite high in the tunnel so check your driveline angles. I had to do a lot of trimming and modifying to get the trans to sit where I wanted.

Unless you plan to have the car down for a LOONG time the independent rear swap is not worth it. The GSL-SE diff is supposed to be good to around 350-400 hp. The early (79-83) open diffs are a lot weaker though and as mentioned above the 84-85 axles have the better large bearings. You can get the 5 lug conversion axles through Moser for the big bearing rears.

The FC front subframe can be adapted to the FB with some work, others have done this quite a few times. Not legal for racing classes though. If you go that route the FC mounts, oil pan, and front cover should work, the trans mount location may work, depending on where you place the front subframe. If you change the trans mount location you will need to use a custom length driveshaft.

Using the FC radiator will also take a little work to get it to fit right. I do not know if the 12A radiator will be sufficient. I didn't want to chance it, so swapped everything over. Perhaps someone else has had experience with this.

Just sharing my experience with this swap.