Coolant sensor goes off at random times?

Max777 · 04-09-2008, 04:15 PM

Damn, the aluminum one is $150!!!

And even the plastic one is $60!!!!

how much did you pay for yours? I thought it would be like $15 or so for a simple plastic part... geez!

Phoenix7 · 04-09-2008, 04:19 PM

I paid $115 for one from the local mazda dealer last year. When mine took a crap I had no other choice since MAzda had it in stock. The mazdatrix one it only cost $125 + shipping but I couldn't wait for it to be shipped.

Max777 · 04-09-2008, 04:44 PM

Dude! Mine is $95 from the dealer!

Atkins sells them for $65 it seems....

Well, what about... getting some SS pipe with a 45 degree diameter, and making a flange, then brazing that together? I am in shop class right now, and it's possible!

Phoenix7 · 04-09-2008, 04:47 PM

yeah, that's why i think you should spend the extra cash on a metal piece that won't break like the plastic/original FG ones.

If you have the tools then make one. Just check to make sure it's not flawed and will give you problems down the road..

Boostmaniac · 04-09-2008, 08:30 PM

Mazdatrix one IS metal right?

Phoenix7 · 04-09-2008, 08:40 PM

yes

Nopis1O · 04-10-2008, 02:59 PM

dude max go with the metal one. i had the same problem a while back. i would drive like 20 min and my coolent was gone. it turned out to be the neck. got the metal replacement cuz a local fd owner made me ha. and i havent regreted it.

you ever going to get that other engine?

hey im tearing down my garage and building a new one so my suspension and 3rd gen turbo stuff has to go.

Max777 · 04-10-2008, 05:57 PM

wait, isnt S4 supposed to have a metal one stock? or was yours cracked?

And yes, I'm getting that other engine, just that I have like, almost NO cash ATM, so I'm gonna be selling some stuff...

Nopis1O · 04-10-2008, 10:08 PM

oh kool. what are you selling. its a rebuilt engine.

Max777 · 04-12-2008, 05:14 PM

Hey guys... so today I ground the coolant sensor, so it does not go mad, and drove my car around a bit, parked it for 2 hrs, and drove some more. The coolant gauge never went higher than 1/2 and since the buzzer didnt go off, it seems that it is NOT a bad wiring in the harness problem.

My question is: how much pressure is there supposed to be in the upper rad hose after the engine is shut down? Mine has a lot of pressure in it. Is it possible that my coolant leak may be a cracked housing and the combustion pressure overpressurizes the coolant system?

also, my car smokes a blue-ish/ white ish color when I first start it up, and id does so for 5min or so until it warms up. How heavy should this smoke be if it sat for like a week? I had it coming out of there like a stove pipe!

Phoenix7 · 04-12-2008, 05:22 PM

uhoh. White smoke like you describe = bad coolant seals. Take a pic/vid at the next startup.

Max777 · 04-12-2008, 06:57 PM

Well, it stops after it warms up... but it smokes like it DOES have bad coolant seals...lol

Phoenix7 · 04-12-2008, 07:17 PM

that means that your coolant seals have expanded once they reach operating temps. As the car cools down the coolant seals contract and the rip/tear in the seal allows coolant to seep into the chamber that eventually becomes that sweet smelling white smoke.

Must have overheated badly enough to damage the seals.

Max777 · 04-12-2008, 10:26 PM

Well, then that other engine is coming in ASAP!

The thing is, this one, even with 140K still runs like a fresh inmate from the showers.... so maybe it go a rebuild some time during those 140K? But then again, maybe I just dont know how it SHOULD run? I drove an S4 vert, and it felt way slower, and only had like, 115K on it.

Phoenix7 · 04-13-2008, 04:00 AM

well you overheated it and killed the seals. It will run fine until the crack/tear gets big enough to not close at operating temps and then your gonna be burning steam at all times.

04-09-2008, 04:15 PM	#16
Max777 Pirate Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Central IL iTrader: (5) Posts: 1,323 Rep Power: 18	Damn, the aluminum one is $150!!! And even the plastic one is $60!!!! how much did you pay for yours? I thought it would be like $15 or so for a simple plastic part... geez! __________________ Rotaries:They are NOT that complicated!

04-09-2008, 04:44 PM	#18
Max777 Pirate Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Central IL iTrader: (5) Posts: 1,323 Rep Power: 18	Dude! Mine is $95 from the dealer! Atkins sells them for $65 it seems.... Well, what about... getting some SS pipe with a 45 degree diameter, and making a flange, then brazing that together? I am in shop class right now, and it's possible! __________________ Rotaries:They are NOT that complicated!

04-10-2008, 02:59 PM	#22
Nopis1O Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Mid State Illinois iTrader: (0) Posts: 159 Rep Power: 17	dude max go with the metal one. i had the same problem a while back. i would drive like 20 min and my coolent was gone. it turned out to be the neck. got the metal replacement cuz a local fd owner made me ha. and i havent regreted it. you ever going to get that other engine? hey im tearing down my garage and building a new one so my suspension and 3rd gen turbo stuff has to go. __________________ 1988 Fc Vert. Super Stock 1990 Fc Hard top: Brideported 13b, weber carb, 350z wheels w/nitrogen, or 16in BBS meshies, Msd, Racaro Racing Seats, Custom Gauge cluster, custom Intake, Relocated Battery, 3inch header back borla exhaust system, Alpine stereo system, Wire tucked, S4 shift boot&knob, custom Strut bar, And soon to come a Full black w/ gold pearl paint job, powder coated break calipers, all black interior, bride headliner/door panels.

04-10-2008, 05:57 PM	#23
Max777 Pirate Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Central IL iTrader: (5) Posts: 1,323 Rep Power: 18	wait, isnt S4 supposed to have a metal one stock? or was yours cracked? And yes, I'm getting that other engine, just that I have like, almost NO cash ATM, so I'm gonna be selling some stuff... __________________ Rotaries:They are NOT that complicated!

04-10-2008, 10:08 PM	#24
Nopis1O Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Mid State Illinois iTrader: (0) Posts: 159 Rep Power: 17	oh kool. what are you selling. its a rebuilt engine. __________________ 1988 Fc Vert. Super Stock 1990 Fc Hard top: Brideported 13b, weber carb, 350z wheels w/nitrogen, or 16in BBS meshies, Msd, Racaro Racing Seats, Custom Gauge cluster, custom Intake, Relocated Battery, 3inch header back borla exhaust system, Alpine stereo system, Wire tucked, S4 shift boot&knob, custom Strut bar, And soon to come a Full black w/ gold pearl paint job, powder coated break calipers, all black interior, bride headliner/door panels.

04-09-2008, 08:30 PM	#20
Boostmaniac Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Apr 2008 iTrader: (0) Posts: 182 Rep Power: 0	Mazdatrix one IS metal right?

04-12-2008, 05:14 PM	#25
Max777 Pirate Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Central IL iTrader: (5) Posts: 1,323 Rep Power: 18	Hey guys... so today I ground the coolant sensor, so it does not go mad, and drove my car around a bit, parked it for 2 hrs, and drove some more. The coolant gauge never went higher than 1/2 and since the buzzer didnt go off, it seems that it is NOT a bad wiring in the harness problem. My question is: how much pressure is there supposed to be in the upper rad hose after the engine is shut down? Mine has a lot of pressure in it. Is it possible that my coolant leak may be a cracked housing and the combustion pressure overpressurizes the coolant system? also, my car smokes a blue-ish/ white ish color when I first start it up, and id does so for 5min or so until it warms up. How heavy should this smoke be if it sat for like a week? I had it coming out of there like a stove pipe! __________________ Rotaries:They are NOT that complicated!

04-12-2008, 06:57 PM	#27
Max777 Pirate Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Central IL iTrader: (5) Posts: 1,323 Rep Power: 18	Well, it stops after it warms up... but it smokes like it DOES have bad coolant seals...lol __________________ Rotaries:They are NOT that complicated!

04-12-2008, 10:26 PM	#29
Max777 Pirate Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Central IL iTrader: (5) Posts: 1,323 Rep Power: 18	Well, then that other engine is coming in ASAP! The thing is, this one, even with 140K still runs like a fresh inmate from the showers.... so maybe it go a rebuild some time during those 140K? But then again, maybe I just dont know how it SHOULD run? I drove an S4 vert, and it felt way slower, and only had like, 115K on it. __________________ Rotaries:They are NOT that complicated!