Clutch hydraulics question

Pete_89T2 · 05-06-2011, 11:56 AM

Hey guys, ran into an intermittent clutch problem on my way home from DGRR, which has repeated once since then. Every once in a while, when I depress the clutch pedal it fails to come back up when I let off it - just sits there on the floor. When this happens, sticking my toes under the pedal and pulling it back up, followed by a few pumps on the pedal gets it back to normal operations. There's no sign of leaking fluid anywhere near the clutch master or slave cylinders, ditto for the hydraulic line. As far as I know, the master & slave cylinder is original, 137K miles.

When I had a very similar problem with my FB, replacing just the slave cylinder fixed it, but that was with only like 40K miles on the clock. Question is, should I replace just the slave or both master & slave cylinders at this point? I'm leaning towards both given the miles/age. Thoughts?

FerociousP · 05-06-2011, 12:11 PM

My initial thought is the master because if it isn't leaking externally as a valve could be failing... you could be pumping fluid back into the reservoir. For externally, have you checked under the dash for fluid leaking?

It definitely won't hurt to change both at the same time and get a stainless line while you are at it... Then voila... 100% new hydraulics. And its not too difficult to install or bleed really, just need small hands and a helper! lol

Pete_89T2 · 05-06-2011, 12:47 PM

I took a look under the dash, but didn't bother to yank the carpet up for a closer look b/c the fluid level in the MC reservoir was at the full line - if it's leaking it's most likely internal.

I'll probably just replace everything and be done with it. Having a Motive pressure bleeder handy makes the job an easy 1-man job, but still requires tiny monkey hands!

FerociousP · 05-06-2011, 04:06 PM

I have one word for you... "Finger ratchets!" the rachets that are a circle with knurls on the outside. perfect for this situation

***TitaniumTT*** · 05-07-2011, 12:04 AM

Hey Pete, it's really hard to tell which is leaking internally without taking them apart to find the bum seal, but it's definately one of them. For the cost of them, and expecting the non replaced to fail shortly after the new one gets replaced, I would just go ahead and replace them both...... just me though.

If one was definately leaking, I'd say replace just that one, buuuuuuuuuut in this instance, should cost $80 to end the headaches.

Pete_89T2 · 05-07-2011, 06:37 AM

^ Roger that, I priced out the parts on a couple of online sources yesterday and it looks I can get both cylinders plus a SS line for under $100. No point not replacing everything and being done with it.

05-06-2011, 11:56 AM	#1
Pete_89T2 Lifetime Rotorhead Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Elkton, MD iTrader: (1) Posts: 874 Rep Power: 15	Clutch hydraulics question Hey guys, ran into an intermittent clutch problem on my way home from DGRR, which has repeated once since then. Every once in a while, when I depress the clutch pedal it fails to come back up when I let off it - just sits there on the floor. When this happens, sticking my toes under the pedal and pulling it back up, followed by a few pumps on the pedal gets it back to normal operations. There's no sign of leaking fluid anywhere near the clutch master or slave cylinders, ditto for the hydraulic line. As far as I know, the master & slave cylinder is original, 137K miles. When I had a very similar problem with my FB, replacing just the slave cylinder fixed it, but that was with only like 40K miles on the clock. Question is, should I replace just the slave or both master & slave cylinders at this point? I'm leaning towards both given the miles/age. Thoughts?

05-06-2011, 12:11 PM	#2
FerociousP I-had-a-bad-experience... Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: M'boro iTrader: (2) Posts: 1,046 Rep Power: 18	My initial thought is the master because if it isn't leaking externally as a valve could be failing... you could be pumping fluid back into the reservoir. For externally, have you checked under the dash for fluid leaking? It definitely won't hurt to change both at the same time and get a stainless line while you are at it... Then voila... 100% new hydraulics. And its not too difficult to install or bleed really, just need small hands and a helper! lol __________________ '15 Juke Nismo '06 MX-5 GT SOLD '04 S Silver RX-8 GT Track Day Use SOLD '90 Black TII vert w/ Sprint RE stock port/turbo DD dyno (242.6whp@5500rpm @12psi 8psi@redline) and (250ftlbtq@4800rpm @13psi) SOLD '89 GTUs 6p TII SOLD, '87 sport SOLD, '79 SA stock SOLD '91 B2600i 4x4 w/ Rx-8 LSD SOLD Last edited by FerociousP; 05-06-2011 at 12:13 PM..

05-06-2011, 04:06 PM	#4
FerociousP I-had-a-bad-experience... Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: M'boro iTrader: (2) Posts: 1,046 Rep Power: 18	I have one word for you... "Finger ratchets!" the rachets that are a circle with knurls on the outside. perfect for this situation __________________ '15 Juke Nismo '06 MX-5 GT SOLD '04 S Silver RX-8 GT Track Day Use SOLD '90 Black TII vert w/ Sprint RE stock port/turbo DD dyno (242.6whp@5500rpm @12psi 8psi@redline) and (250ftlbtq@4800rpm @13psi) SOLD '89 GTUs 6p TII SOLD, '87 sport SOLD, '79 SA stock SOLD '91 B2600i 4x4 w/ Rx-8 LSD SOLD

05-07-2011, 12:04 AM	#5
*TitaniumTT* Test Whore - Admin Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Right Behind you son iTrader: (4) Posts: 4,581 Rep Power: 10	Hey Pete, it's really hard to tell which is leaking internally without taking them apart to find the bum seal, but it's definately one of them. For the cost of them, and expecting the non replaced to fail shortly after the new one gets replaced, I would just go ahead and replace them both...... just me though. If one was definately leaking, I'd say replace just that one, buuuuuuuuuut in this instance, should cost $80 to end the headaches. __________________ -The Angry Stig- DGRR 2009, 2011, 2012 & 2013 - Best FC DEALS GAP!! WOOHOOOO!!!!! 2015 Audi S4 - Samantha - Zero Brap S4 2004 RX8 - Jocelyn - 196rwhp, 19mpg fuel to noise converter 2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport - Wifey mobile - Now with 2.5" OME lift and 30" BFG AT KO's! So it begins 1998 Jeep Cherokee - 5 spd, 4" lift, 33" BFG's - Rotary Tow Vehicle 1988 'Vert - In progress 1988 FC Coupe - Gretchen -The attention whore BEAST! I'm a sick individual, what's wrong with you? I'm pure Evil I'm still insane, in the best possible way. I think Brian's idea of romance is using lube. Your rage caused the meteor strike in Russia. The Antichrist would be proud of his minion. You win with your thread. Most everything It's a truck with a steel gate on the back. Just a statement of fact Motec M820, AIM dash, ported 13B-RE Cosmo, 6-spd trans, 4.3 Torsen, custom twin wg fully divided mani, Custom 4" split into 2x 3" exhaust, Custom HMIC, Custom custom custom custom I like to welder stuff.... No Bolt-ons allowed. Dyno'ed @ Speed1 Tuned by me - 405rwhp on WG.... WM50 cuming soon. *-Angry Motherfcker Mode ENGAGED-**

05-06-2011, 12:47 PM	#3
Pete_89T2 Lifetime Rotorhead Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Elkton, MD iTrader: (1) Posts: 874 Rep Power: 15	I took a look under the dash, but didn't bother to yank the carpet up for a closer look b/c the fluid level in the MC reservoir was at the full line - if it's leaking it's most likely internal. I'll probably just replace everything and be done with it. Having a Motive pressure bleeder handy makes the job an easy 1-man job, but still requires tiny monkey hands!

05-07-2011, 06:37 AM	#6
Pete_89T2 Lifetime Rotorhead Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Elkton, MD iTrader: (1) Posts: 874 Rep Power: 15	^ Roger that, I priced out the parts on a couple of online sources yesterday and it looks I can get both cylinders plus a SS line for under $100. No point not replacing everything and being done with it.