Ignition wiring sanity check

vex · 04-01-2011, 02:02 PM

I'm getting ever closer to installing my stand alone (in fact I'm planning on wiring the power side of things tomorrow and crimping the cannon receptacle): I'm installing the quicksilver coils and want to wire them up on a plug prior to full installation. The trouble is they have no documentation that is sent with them. As such here's what I do have:

I have 5 wires coming off from the ECU that will be connecting to these. 4 switched grounds (one for each coil) and a 12v switched source (don't worry it's relay'd).

My thinking is this:

A - 12V+ switched
B - Switched ground wire
C - Chassis Ground
D - Chassis Ground (or should I really run a wire to the battery ground?)
E - 12V+ Battery

Is this wrong, or is there a better way to wire this up? Thanks.

NoDOHC · 04-02-2011, 07:11 PM

TTL means Transistor - Transistor Logic. This is almost always referring to a 5V signal.

There is no reason that I can think of that you should power your coils all the time (feed the Battery + with a switched source). The secondary ground should be connected as close to the spark plug as possible (this is the return path for the spark), the battery ground should be connected to a good ground point or the battery negative

Will the Platinum Sport ECU permit driving a coil at 5VDC instead of 12? (adjusting the pullup to 5V instead of 12V)? If so, you can invert the ignition output, drive the high at 5V and connect the low to the ignition output.

You can also ground the negative side and leave the output non-inverted (it will go high to energize the coil, fall to fire).

There are basically 2 things that you need to know. First, are the TTL inputs capable of accepting 12V (nominal - actually about 14V)? If not and second, can your ECU drive to 5V instead of 12V?

vex · 04-02-2011, 08:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NoDOHC

TTL means Transistor - Transistor Logic. This is almost always referring to a 5V signal.

There is no reason that I can think of that you should power your coils all the time (feed the Battery + with a switched source). The secondary ground should be connected as close to the spark plug as possible (this is the return path for the spark), the battery ground should be connected to a good ground point or the battery negative

So if I can, mate the secondary ground to the engine itself? Got it. Battery ground can be mated to a good chassis ground?

Quote:

Will the Platinum Sport ECU permit driving a coil at 5VDC instead of 12? (adjusting the pullup to 5V instead of 12V)? If so, you can invert the ignition output, drive the high at 5V and connect the low to the ignition output.

No... it can't do ignition pull up like that... but I could do a DPO at 5v, or hook up the 5v sensor source to them which might work out easier.

Quote:

You can also ground the negative side and leave the output non-inverted (it will go high to energize the coil, fall to fire).

There are basically 2 things that you need to know. First, are the TTL inputs capable of accepting 12V (nominal - actually about 14V)? If not and second, can your ECU drive to 5V instead of 12V?

I'm still waiting to hear back from 034 for the proper wiring schematic... As for the second I think I covered that pretty well.

***TitaniumTT*** · 04-03-2011, 03:26 AM

Best way I've found is to daisy chain gnds from the battery with powerposts.

Ground all the aux crap, mack certain that the coil gnd is a damn good one, make certain that the positive is solid then of course there is the trigger

vex · 04-03-2011, 09:08 AM

I found this recently:

Pin A - Ignition output from ECU
Pin B - ECU ground (chassis ground)
Pin C - Ground to the head
Pin D - Battery ground
Pin E - 12V+ switched

***TitaniumTT*** · 04-03-2011, 10:59 AM

If you really want to get fancy you can run the ecu gnd back to the same gnd that the ecu shares. Other than that, just grnd the other 2 and call it a day. The coil gnd is the most important grnd to worry about.

vex · 04-13-2011, 04:41 PM

So for Pin D can I ground it to the same location as Pin C without ill effect?

***TitaniumTT*** · 04-13-2011, 06:06 PM

the D Pin is the main (-) for the coil. SO make certain that is a damn fine gnd and then yes, C can go to it without any ill effect.

vex · 04-13-2011, 08:16 PM

I'm thinking of attaching it to the engine block itself, is that good enough? I've moved the battery to passenger bin so it would be a hassle to put it through the cannon plug unless it can work with a 20 AWG which I don't think would be good. I could run a 16 AWG wire for it, but I don't really want to attempt to shove it into the plug and would have to directly pass it through the firewall which doesn't look all that great.

I suppose I could measure the resistance between the point I intend and the negative battery cable in the cabin, which should give me a better idea if it's a good place or not. Is there a specific Ohm reading I should hope to see?

***TitaniumTT*** · 04-13-2011, 08:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vex

I'm thinking of attaching it to the engine block itself, is that good enough?

No

Quote:

Originally Posted by vex

I suppose I could measure the resistance between the point I intend and the negative battery cable in the cabin, which should give me a better idea if it's a good place or not. Is there a specific Ohm reading I should hope to see?

0

Grab one of those and put it on the firewall. Daisy chain the gnd from the battery, to the main powerpost, to that firewall piece, to the block, to the coils. Daisy chaining meaning that each stud has 2 terminals stacked on top of one another.

http://order.waytekwire.com/productd...0TYPE%20BLACK/

vex · 04-13-2011, 09:24 PM

This is why I ask questions

Alright, I'll run a temp wire in the mean time until I get a bulkhead fitting.

***TitaniumTT*** · 04-13-2011, 10:35 PM

No worries.... Waytek is awesome as they have quanitity min's not $$ mins. So you could order just that one piece. I wouldn't use anything under 18ga txl wire per coil.

vex · 04-13-2011, 11:40 PM

Wait, you can't/shouldn't daisy chain 'em?

***TitaniumTT*** · 04-13-2011, 11:47 PM

My setup is battery to powerpost, to engine block (one of the boss' on the rotor housings) to coil mounting bracket (I built it out of 1/4" AL plate and tapped an M6x1 bolt through it to make it a stud) to the individual coils. I'm saying if you run some sort of temp wire, don't go under 18ga per coil back to the gnd. Daisy chainin has served me well in the past

04-01-2011, 02:02 PM	#1
vex RCC Loves Me Not You Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Influx. iTrader: (6) Posts: 2,113 Rep Power: 19	Ignition wiring sanity check I'm getting ever closer to installing my stand alone (in fact I'm planning on wiring the power side of things tomorrow and crimping the cannon receptacle): I'm installing the quicksilver coils and want to wire them up on a plug prior to full installation. The trouble is they have no documentation that is sent with them. As such here's what I do have: I have 5 wires coming off from the ECU that will be connecting to these. 4 switched grounds (one for each coil) and a 12v switched source (don't worry it's relay'd). My thinking is this: A - 12V+ switched B - Switched ground wire C - Chassis Ground D - Chassis Ground (or should I really run a wire to the battery ground?) E - 12V+ Battery Is this wrong, or is there a better way to wire this up? Thanks. __________________ The Official FC Radiator Thread My Project Thread: Cerberus CCVT Virginia Rotary Group

04-02-2011, 07:11 PM	#2
NoDOHC The quest for more torque Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Sheboygan, Wisconsin iTrader: (1) Posts: 855 Rep Power: 17	TTL means Transistor - Transistor Logic. This is almost always referring to a 5V signal. There is no reason that I can think of that you should power your coils all the time (feed the Battery + with a switched source). The secondary ground should be connected as close to the spark plug as possible (this is the return path for the spark), the battery ground should be connected to a good ground point or the battery negative Will the Platinum Sport ECU permit driving a coil at 5VDC instead of 12? (adjusting the pullup to 5V instead of 12V)? If so, you can invert the ignition output, drive the high at 5V and connect the low to the ignition output. You can also ground the negative side and leave the output non-inverted (it will go high to energize the coil, fall to fire). There are basically 2 things that you need to know. First, are the TTL inputs capable of accepting 12V (nominal - actually about 14V)? If not and second, can your ECU drive to 5V instead of 12V? __________________ 1986 GXL ('87 4-port NA - Haltech E8, LS2 Coils. Defined Autoworks Headers, Dual 2.5" Exhaust (Dual Superflow, dBX mufflers) 1991 Coupe (KYB AGX Shocks, Eibach lowering springs, RB exhaust, Stock and Automatic)

04-03-2011, 03:26 AM	#4
*TitaniumTT* Test Whore - Admin Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Right Behind you son iTrader: (4) Posts: 4,581 Rep Power: 10	Best way I've found is to daisy chain gnds from the battery with powerposts. Ground all the aux crap, mack certain that the coil gnd is a damn good one, make certain that the positive is solid then of course there is the trigger __________________ -The Angry Stig- DGRR 2009, 2011, 2012 & 2013 - Best FC DEALS GAP!! WOOHOOOO!!!!! 2015 Audi S4 - Samantha - Zero Brap S4 2004 RX8 - Jocelyn - 196rwhp, 19mpg fuel to noise converter 2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport - Wifey mobile - Now with 2.5" OME lift and 30" BFG AT KO's! So it begins 1998 Jeep Cherokee - 5 spd, 4" lift, 33" BFG's - Rotary Tow Vehicle 1988 'Vert - In progress 1988 FC Coupe - Gretchen -The attention whore BEAST! I'm a sick individual, what's wrong with you? I'm pure Evil I'm still insane, in the best possible way. I think Brian's idea of romance is using lube. Your rage caused the meteor strike in Russia. The Antichrist would be proud of his minion. You win with your thread. Most everything It's a truck with a steel gate on the back. Just a statement of fact Motec M820, AIM dash, ported 13B-RE Cosmo, 6-spd trans, 4.3 Torsen, custom twin wg fully divided mani, Custom 4" split into 2x 3" exhaust, Custom HMIC, Custom custom custom custom I like to welder stuff.... No Bolt-ons allowed. Dyno'ed @ Speed1 Tuned by me - 405rwhp on WG.... WM50 cuming soon. *-Angry Motherfcker Mode ENGAGED-**

04-03-2011, 09:08 AM	#5
vex RCC Loves Me Not You Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Influx. iTrader: (6) Posts: 2,113 Rep Power: 19	I found this recently: Pin A - Ignition output from ECU Pin B - ECU ground (chassis ground) Pin C - Ground to the head Pin D - Battery ground Pin E - 12V+ switched __________________ The Official FC Radiator Thread My Project Thread: Cerberus CCVT Virginia Rotary Group

04-03-2011, 10:59 AM	#6
*TitaniumTT* Test Whore - Admin Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Right Behind you son iTrader: (4) Posts: 4,581 Rep Power: 10	If you really want to get fancy you can run the ecu gnd back to the same gnd that the ecu shares. Other than that, just grnd the other 2 and call it a day. The coil gnd is the most important grnd to worry about. __________________ -The Angry Stig- DGRR 2009, 2011, 2012 & 2013 - Best FC DEALS GAP!! WOOHOOOO!!!!! 2015 Audi S4 - Samantha - Zero Brap S4 2004 RX8 - Jocelyn - 196rwhp, 19mpg fuel to noise converter 2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport - Wifey mobile - Now with 2.5" OME lift and 30" BFG AT KO's! So it begins 1998 Jeep Cherokee - 5 spd, 4" lift, 33" BFG's - Rotary Tow Vehicle 1988 'Vert - In progress 1988 FC Coupe - Gretchen -The attention whore BEAST! I'm a sick individual, what's wrong with you? I'm pure Evil I'm still insane, in the best possible way. I think Brian's idea of romance is using lube. Your rage caused the meteor strike in Russia. The Antichrist would be proud of his minion. You win with your thread. Most everything It's a truck with a steel gate on the back. Just a statement of fact Motec M820, AIM dash, ported 13B-RE Cosmo, 6-spd trans, 4.3 Torsen, custom twin wg fully divided mani, Custom 4" split into 2x 3" exhaust, Custom HMIC, Custom custom custom custom I like to welder stuff.... No Bolt-ons allowed. Dyno'ed @ Speed1 Tuned by me - 405rwhp on WG.... WM50 cuming soon. *-Angry Motherfcker Mode ENGAGED-**

04-13-2011, 04:41 PM	#7
vex RCC Loves Me Not You Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Influx. iTrader: (6) Posts: 2,113 Rep Power: 19	So for Pin D can I ground it to the same location as Pin C without ill effect? __________________ The Official FC Radiator Thread My Project Thread: Cerberus CCVT Virginia Rotary Group

04-13-2011, 06:06 PM	#8
*TitaniumTT* Test Whore - Admin Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Right Behind you son iTrader: (4) Posts: 4,581 Rep Power: 10	the D Pin is the main (-) for the coil. SO make certain that is a damn fine gnd and then yes, C can go to it without any ill effect. __________________ -The Angry Stig- DGRR 2009, 2011, 2012 & 2013 - Best FC DEALS GAP!! WOOHOOOO!!!!! 2015 Audi S4 - Samantha - Zero Brap S4 2004 RX8 - Jocelyn - 196rwhp, 19mpg fuel to noise converter 2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport - Wifey mobile - Now with 2.5" OME lift and 30" BFG AT KO's! So it begins 1998 Jeep Cherokee - 5 spd, 4" lift, 33" BFG's - Rotary Tow Vehicle 1988 'Vert - In progress 1988 FC Coupe - Gretchen -The attention whore BEAST! I'm a sick individual, what's wrong with you? I'm pure Evil I'm still insane, in the best possible way. I think Brian's idea of romance is using lube. Your rage caused the meteor strike in Russia. The Antichrist would be proud of his minion. You win with your thread. Most everything It's a truck with a steel gate on the back. Just a statement of fact Motec M820, AIM dash, ported 13B-RE Cosmo, 6-spd trans, 4.3 Torsen, custom twin wg fully divided mani, Custom 4" split into 2x 3" exhaust, Custom HMIC, Custom custom custom custom I like to welder stuff.... No Bolt-ons allowed. Dyno'ed @ Speed1 Tuned by me - 405rwhp on WG.... WM50 cuming soon. *-Angry Motherfcker Mode ENGAGED-**

04-13-2011, 08:16 PM	#9
vex RCC Loves Me Not You Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Influx. iTrader: (6) Posts: 2,113 Rep Power: 19	I'm thinking of attaching it to the engine block itself, is that good enough? I've moved the battery to passenger bin so it would be a hassle to put it through the cannon plug unless it can work with a 20 AWG which I don't think would be good. I could run a 16 AWG wire for it, but I don't really want to attempt to shove it into the plug and would have to directly pass it through the firewall which doesn't look all that great. I suppose I could measure the resistance between the point I intend and the negative battery cable in the cabin, which should give me a better idea if it's a good place or not. Is there a specific Ohm reading I should hope to see? __________________ The Official FC Radiator Thread My Project Thread: Cerberus CCVT Virginia Rotary Group

04-13-2011, 09:24 PM	#11
vex RCC Loves Me Not You Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Influx. iTrader: (6) Posts: 2,113 Rep Power: 19	This is why I ask questions Alright, I'll run a temp wire in the mean time until I get a bulkhead fitting. __________________ The Official FC Radiator Thread My Project Thread: Cerberus CCVT Virginia Rotary Group

04-13-2011, 10:35 PM	#12
*TitaniumTT* Test Whore - Admin Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Right Behind you son iTrader: (4) Posts: 4,581 Rep Power: 10	No worries.... Waytek is awesome as they have quanitity min's not $$ mins. So you could order just that one piece. I wouldn't use anything under 18ga txl wire per coil. __________________ -The Angry Stig- DGRR 2009, 2011, 2012 & 2013 - Best FC DEALS GAP!! WOOHOOOO!!!!! 2015 Audi S4 - Samantha - Zero Brap S4 2004 RX8 - Jocelyn - 196rwhp, 19mpg fuel to noise converter 2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport - Wifey mobile - Now with 2.5" OME lift and 30" BFG AT KO's! So it begins 1998 Jeep Cherokee - 5 spd, 4" lift, 33" BFG's - Rotary Tow Vehicle 1988 'Vert - In progress 1988 FC Coupe - Gretchen -The attention whore BEAST! I'm a sick individual, what's wrong with you? I'm pure Evil I'm still insane, in the best possible way. I think Brian's idea of romance is using lube. Your rage caused the meteor strike in Russia. The Antichrist would be proud of his minion. You win with your thread. Most everything It's a truck with a steel gate on the back. Just a statement of fact Motec M820, AIM dash, ported 13B-RE Cosmo, 6-spd trans, 4.3 Torsen, custom twin wg fully divided mani, Custom 4" split into 2x 3" exhaust, Custom HMIC, Custom custom custom custom I like to welder stuff.... No Bolt-ons allowed. Dyno'ed @ Speed1 Tuned by me - 405rwhp on WG.... WM50 cuming soon. *-Angry Motherfcker Mode ENGAGED-**

04-13-2011, 11:40 PM	#13
vex RCC Loves Me Not You Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Influx. iTrader: (6) Posts: 2,113 Rep Power: 19	Wait, you can't/shouldn't daisy chain 'em? __________________ The Official FC Radiator Thread My Project Thread: Cerberus CCVT Virginia Rotary Group

04-13-2011, 11:47 PM	#14
*TitaniumTT* Test Whore - Admin Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Right Behind you son iTrader: (4) Posts: 4,581 Rep Power: 10	My setup is battery to powerpost, to engine block (one of the boss' on the rotor housings) to coil mounting bracket (I built it out of 1/4" AL plate and tapped an M6x1 bolt through it to make it a stud) to the individual coils. I'm saying if you run some sort of temp wire, don't go under 18ga per coil back to the gnd. Daisy chainin has served me well in the past __________________ -The Angry Stig- DGRR 2009, 2011, 2012 & 2013 - Best FC DEALS GAP!! WOOHOOOO!!!!! 2015 Audi S4 - Samantha - Zero Brap S4 2004 RX8 - Jocelyn - 196rwhp, 19mpg fuel to noise converter 2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport - Wifey mobile - Now with 2.5" OME lift and 30" BFG AT KO's! So it begins 1998 Jeep Cherokee - 5 spd, 4" lift, 33" BFG's - Rotary Tow Vehicle 1988 'Vert - In progress 1988 FC Coupe - Gretchen -The attention whore BEAST! I'm a sick individual, what's wrong with you? I'm pure Evil I'm still insane, in the best possible way. I think Brian's idea of romance is using lube. Your rage caused the meteor strike in Russia. The Antichrist would be proud of his minion. You win with your thread. Most everything It's a truck with a steel gate on the back. Just a statement of fact Motec M820, AIM dash, ported 13B-RE Cosmo, 6-spd trans, 4.3 Torsen, custom twin wg fully divided mani, Custom 4" split into 2x 3" exhaust, Custom HMIC, Custom custom custom custom I like to welder stuff.... No Bolt-ons allowed. Dyno'ed @ Speed1 Tuned by me - 405rwhp on WG.... WM50 cuming soon. *-Angry Motherfcker Mode ENGAGED-**