Joff and MrsJoff's Chaste White BorgWarner FD build

Doc-1 · 01-10-2011, 08:54 PM

Very Nice Very Nice Indeed

joff · 01-11-2011, 10:57 PM

I got all my intake tubing cut and welded this weekend. I was able to keep all bends relatively gentle, but man I am really getting sick of having to use this hack saw. Cutting a 4" cast aluminum elbow in half by hand (and all the other pieces) was a major PITA.

I was able to get the fitment between sections within about 1/8" which should make couplers blowing off almost impossible. To minimize number of couplers, I also cut off the end of the cast Rotary-Works elbow and had pipe welded to that. I'm tempted to use Wiggins clamps on the intercooler piping, but don't really dig the purple anodizing.

Next I'm going to grind the welds down, find somebody to put a bead on the ends and get the pieces powder coated wrinkle-black. BOV mount is going on the intercooler hot side.

Tried to position the air filter perfectly for a cold air/ram air intake. This pic is from the front looking into the V of the V-mount with the bumper off.

I do like the more gentle angle of the Rotary-works TB elbow as compared to the >90degree Greddy ones, but I don't think I'll be able to reuse the stock strut bar now without some custom mounts-- it sits pretty high. RCCAZ and dregg100 gave me a heads up Saturday that cutting off the air pump mount on the water pump housing would clean up some of the fuel rail plumbing later so I cut that piece off too with the hacksaw.

***TitaniumTT*** · 01-12-2011, 12:26 AM

Damn, that powdercoating looks fantastic. It really does. Gives me more motivation to redo mine.

The fitment on the intercooler piping is top notch, well done. I would suggest NOT grinding the beads down though. I did this with a few pipes that I had ceramic coated, and they cracked.... so now they need to be re-coated... damnit.

speedjunkie · 01-12-2011, 10:35 AM

As for fitting the strut bar on, how much higher is all that sitting? I put washers under my strut bar mounts but I'm about to get some spacers made by waterjet to put on each side. Let me know how thick you need them and I'll have some made for you too. I personally wouldn't go so thick that you can't fit the nut fully onto the threads, but that's just my preference. I want at least 1 thread to show on the top side of the nut.

I agree with Brian, that wrinkle powdercoat finish is awesome! I might have to copy that if you don't mind HAHA.

My IC piping is set up the same way too, basically touching each other with the coupler there just to make a seal, but mine is more ghetto than yours haha.

I like your cold air intake too, makes me think I need to get a smaller IC so I can have room to fit my filter like that too, and possibly get less of a pressure drop at the same time.

I didn't know Rotary Works made a TB elbow, that's awesome!

calicrewchief · 01-12-2011, 12:56 PM

Your setup looks great, but I don't see many vmounts where the intake is in the same compartment as the radiator and intercooler. Now this is my simple minded theory, but wont the turbo at full boost be taking away much of the cfm airflow that would be forced throught the intercooler and radiator?

***TitaniumTT*** · 01-12-2011, 01:45 PM

No. Think about the surface area moving through the front bumper at a speed more than 10mph or 880ft/min.....

joff · 01-12-2011, 01:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by calicrewchief

[
Your setup looks great, but I don't see many vmounts where the intake is in the same compartment as the radiator and intercooler. Now this is my simple minded theory, but wont the turbo at full boost be taking away much of the cfm airflow that would be forced throught the intercooler and radiator?

Heh, I never thought of that, but I hope so! That means it would also be reducing the extra aero drag I'm incurring by running the vmount. I'd prefer then to think about it as the turbo inlet sucking the car forward!

Thinking about the math though, I think its unrealistic. I think I remember reading once it takes around 2CFM of air at sealevel to make 1HP. If I go for 400HP, I need 800CFM of air. My bumper duct is probably (conservatively) about 3ft^2 area so at 30mph I'm "scooping up" up to about 8000 CFM of air.

hades · 01-12-2011, 04:54 PM

where in the intake box you fab'd?

RCCAZ 1 · 01-12-2011, 05:13 PM

Jesse... are you planning to shroud that filter and the other open areas around the IC to force more air through the IC and radiator?

joff · 01-12-2011, 05:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hades

where in the intake box you fab'd?

The intake box goes over the top of the air filter assembly to provide a better seal to the engine bay but has a open bottom for the air filter. The pics I sent previous were mockups I made out of foamboard. I'm using the foamboard mockup to layup some red kevlar/carbon fiber for the visible portions of the top of the airbox that will be riveted to the mostly invisible aluminum bottom/rear end of the airbox where I will have the 4" turbo-inlet pipe welded to it. The rear/bottom aluminum portion of the box will also be attached to a piano hinge and another piece of sheet aluminum to act as a air splitter and also to seal up the small gap between the IC and radiator.

Its kind of hard to explain, but I hope to get a lot of that done this next weekend.

joff · 01-12-2011, 11:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by speedjunkie

As for fitting the strut bar on, how much higher is all that sitting? I put washers under my strut bar mounts but I'm about to get some spacers made by waterjet to put on each side. Let me know how thick you need them and I'll have some made for you too. I personally wouldn't go so thick that you can't fit the nut fully onto the threads, but that's just my preference. I want at least 1 thread to show on the top side of the nut.

Wow, thanks! But I don't think spacers will be enough here. I think I'm going to have a different mount built:

Getting a good wrinkle black seems very much dependent on the prep work and process. A friend did his engine bay in the same wrinkle black powder and it turned out with a lot different texture. I used a local powder coater, Glendale Powder Coating and they did some sort of industrial chemical wash that just turned out awesome.

Quote:

Originally Posted by RCCAZ 1

Jesse... are you planning to shroud that filter and the other open areas around the IC to force more air through the IC and radiator?

Yes, definitely. I don't want any gaps. Here's a couple shots of the airbox in CAD to explain a bit more re: my previous post. I'd like to make a small duct to direct a bit of air from the V right to the turbo CHRA, but I'm not sure it would do enough to make wortwhile yet.

***TitaniumTT*** · 01-13-2011, 01:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by joff

Heh, I never thought of that, but I hope so! That means it would also be reducing the extra aero drag I'm incurring by running the vmount. I'd prefer then to think about it as the turbo inlet sucking the car forward!

Thinking about the math though, I think its unrealistic. I think I remember reading once it takes around 2CFM of air at sealevel to make 1HP. If I go for 400HP, I need 800CFM of air. My bumper duct is probably (conservatively) about 3ft^2 area so at 30mph I'm "scooping up" up to about 8000 CFM of air.

Soooo like I said, No

Quote:

Originally Posted by joff

Wow, thanks! But I don't think spacers will be enough here. I think I'm going to have a different mount built:

With a plasma cutter, a welder, and a some steel stock you could mod that mount to work just great. Had to do that with my greedy strut brace.... before I said eff it and built my own

Quote:

Originally Posted by joff

Getting a good wrinkle black seems very much dependent on the prep work and process. A friend did his engine bay in the same wrinkle black powder and it turned out with a lot different texture. I used a local powder coater, Glendale Powder Coating and they did some sort of industrial chemical wash that just turned out awesome.

Aint that the truth. For the do-it-yourself guys, clean it, bake it, sand it, clean it, and that usually does it for me.

Quote:

Originally Posted by joff

Yes, definitely. I don't want any gaps. Here's a couple shots of the airbox in CAD to explain a bit more re: my previous post. I'd like to make a small duct to direct a bit of air from the V right to the turbo CHRA, but I'm not sure it would do enough to make wortwhile yet.

Bad ass man, really bad ass. I wish I was passing through Phoenix not at 6am and had some time to swing by and check this bad ride out. Epic trip ver 2.0

RCCAZ 1 · 01-15-2011, 10:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by joff

Wow, thanks! But I don't think spacers will be enough here. I think I'm going to have a different mount built:

You'll also want to watch your hood clearance closely. That strut bar comes pretty close to the underside of the hood. Not sure how much wiggle room there is for modifying the height significantly. If it were me I'd consider increasing the downward bend angle just out of the TB elbow (if possible). Just an FYI.

speedjunkie · 01-15-2011, 11:22 AM

^Good point, hadn't thought of that. That is getting pretty high. I don't have a stock hood so I forget how low they sit. They do sit pretty low right? lol

***TitaniumTT*** · 01-15-2011, 12:01 PM

"Massage" the supports? Can probably gain an easy 1/2"

01-12-2011, 12:26 AM	#123
*TitaniumTT* Test Whore - Admin Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Right Behind you son iTrader: (4) Posts: 4,581 Rep Power: 10	Damn, that powdercoating looks fantastic. It really does. Gives me more motivation to redo mine. The fitment on the intercooler piping is top notch, well done. I would suggest NOT grinding the beads down though. I did this with a few pipes that I had ceramic coated, and they cracked.... so now they need to be re-coated... damnit. __________________ -The Angry Stig- DGRR 2009, 2011, 2012 & 2013 - Best FC DEALS GAP!! WOOHOOOO!!!!! 2015 Audi S4 - Samantha - Zero Brap S4 2004 RX8 - Jocelyn - 196rwhp, 19mpg fuel to noise converter 2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport - Wifey mobile - Now with 2.5" OME lift and 30" BFG AT KO's! So it begins 1998 Jeep Cherokee - 5 spd, 4" lift, 33" BFG's - Rotary Tow Vehicle 1988 'Vert - In progress 1988 FC Coupe - Gretchen -The attention whore BEAST! I'm a sick individual, what's wrong with you? I'm pure Evil I'm still insane, in the best possible way. I think Brian's idea of romance is using lube. Your rage caused the meteor strike in Russia. The Antichrist would be proud of his minion. You win with your thread. Most everything It's a truck with a steel gate on the back. Just a statement of fact Motec M820, AIM dash, ported 13B-RE Cosmo, 6-spd trans, 4.3 Torsen, custom twin wg fully divided mani, Custom 4" split into 2x 3" exhaust, Custom HMIC, Custom custom custom custom I like to welder stuff.... No Bolt-ons allowed. Dyno'ed @ Speed1 Tuned by me - 405rwhp on WG.... WM50 cuming soon. *-Angry Motherfcker Mode ENGAGED-**

01-12-2011, 01:45 PM	#126
*TitaniumTT* Test Whore - Admin Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Right Behind you son iTrader: (4) Posts: 4,581 Rep Power: 10	No. Think about the surface area moving through the front bumper at a speed more than 10mph or 880ft/min..... __________________ -The Angry Stig- DGRR 2009, 2011, 2012 & 2013 - Best FC DEALS GAP!! WOOHOOOO!!!!! 2015 Audi S4 - Samantha - Zero Brap S4 2004 RX8 - Jocelyn - 196rwhp, 19mpg fuel to noise converter 2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport - Wifey mobile - Now with 2.5" OME lift and 30" BFG AT KO's! So it begins 1998 Jeep Cherokee - 5 spd, 4" lift, 33" BFG's - Rotary Tow Vehicle 1988 'Vert - In progress 1988 FC Coupe - Gretchen -The attention whore BEAST! I'm a sick individual, what's wrong with you? I'm pure Evil I'm still insane, in the best possible way. I think Brian's idea of romance is using lube. Your rage caused the meteor strike in Russia. The Antichrist would be proud of his minion. You win with your thread. Most everything It's a truck with a steel gate on the back. Just a statement of fact Motec M820, AIM dash, ported 13B-RE Cosmo, 6-spd trans, 4.3 Torsen, custom twin wg fully divided mani, Custom 4" split into 2x 3" exhaust, Custom HMIC, Custom custom custom custom I like to welder stuff.... No Bolt-ons allowed. Dyno'ed @ Speed1 Tuned by me - 405rwhp on WG.... WM50 cuming soon. *-Angry Motherfcker Mode ENGAGED-**

01-12-2011, 04:54 PM	#128
hades Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Freedom Land iTrader: (0) Posts: 316 Rep Power: 17	where in the intake box you fab'd? __________________ This is going to tear

01-15-2011, 12:01 PM	#135
*TitaniumTT* Test Whore - Admin Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Right Behind you son iTrader: (4) Posts: 4,581 Rep Power: 10	"Massage" the supports? Can probably gain an easy 1/2" __________________ -The Angry Stig- DGRR 2009, 2011, 2012 & 2013 - Best FC DEALS GAP!! WOOHOOOO!!!!! 2015 Audi S4 - Samantha - Zero Brap S4 2004 RX8 - Jocelyn - 196rwhp, 19mpg fuel to noise converter 2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport - Wifey mobile - Now with 2.5" OME lift and 30" BFG AT KO's! So it begins 1998 Jeep Cherokee - 5 spd, 4" lift, 33" BFG's - Rotary Tow Vehicle 1988 'Vert - In progress 1988 FC Coupe - Gretchen -The attention whore BEAST! I'm a sick individual, what's wrong with you? I'm pure Evil I'm still insane, in the best possible way. I think Brian's idea of romance is using lube. Your rage caused the meteor strike in Russia. The Antichrist would be proud of his minion. You win with your thread. Most everything It's a truck with a steel gate on the back. Just a statement of fact Motec M820, AIM dash, ported 13B-RE Cosmo, 6-spd trans, 4.3 Torsen, custom twin wg fully divided mani, Custom 4" split into 2x 3" exhaust, Custom HMIC, Custom custom custom custom I like to welder stuff.... No Bolt-ons allowed. Dyno'ed @ Speed1 Tuned by me - 405rwhp on WG.... WM50 cuming soon. *-Angry Motherfcker Mode ENGAGED-**

01-10-2011, 08:54 PM	#121
Doc-1 Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Madison Alabama iTrader: (0) Posts: 115 Rep Power: 17	Very Nice Very Nice Indeed

01-11-2011, 10:57 PM	#122
joff Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Mesa, Arizona iTrader: (0) Posts: 114 Rep Power: 16	I got all my intake tubing cut and welded this weekend. I was able to keep all bends relatively gentle, but man I am really getting sick of having to use this hack saw. Cutting a 4" cast aluminum elbow in half by hand (and all the other pieces) was a major PITA. I was able to get the fitment between sections within about 1/8" which should make couplers blowing off almost impossible. To minimize number of couplers, I also cut off the end of the cast Rotary-Works elbow and had pipe welded to that. I'm tempted to use Wiggins clamps on the intercooler piping, but don't really dig the purple anodizing. Next I'm going to grind the welds down, find somebody to put a bead on the ends and get the pieces powder coated wrinkle-black. BOV mount is going on the intercooler hot side. Tried to position the air filter perfectly for a cold air/ram air intake. This pic is from the front looking into the V of the V-mount with the bumper off. I do like the more gentle angle of the Rotary-works TB elbow as compared to the >90degree Greddy ones, but I don't think I'll be able to reuse the stock strut bar now without some custom mounts-- it sits pretty high. RCCAZ and dregg100 gave me a heads up Saturday that cutting off the air pump mount on the water pump housing would clean up some of the fuel rail plumbing later so I cut that piece off too with the hacksaw.

01-12-2011, 10:35 AM	#124
speedjunkie RCC Loves Me Not You Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Colorado Springs, CO iTrader: (1) Posts: 2,089 Rep Power: 19	As for fitting the strut bar on, how much higher is all that sitting? I put washers under my strut bar mounts but I'm about to get some spacers made by waterjet to put on each side. Let me know how thick you need them and I'll have some made for you too. I personally wouldn't go so thick that you can't fit the nut fully onto the threads, but that's just my preference. I want at least 1 thread to show on the top side of the nut. I agree with Brian, that wrinkle powdercoat finish is awesome! I might have to copy that if you don't mind HAHA. My IC piping is set up the same way too, basically touching each other with the coupler there just to make a seal, but mine is more ghetto than yours haha. I like your cold air intake too, makes me think I need to get a smaller IC so I can have room to fit my filter like that too, and possibly get less of a pressure drop at the same time. I didn't know Rotary Works made a TB elbow, that's awesome!

01-12-2011, 12:56 PM	#125
calicrewchief Rotary Tuner in Training Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Beaverton, OR iTrader: (0) Posts: 69 Rep Power: 16	Your setup looks great, but I don't see many vmounts where the intake is in the same compartment as the radiator and intercooler. Now this is my simple minded theory, but wont the turbo at full boost be taking away much of the cfm airflow that would be forced throught the intercooler and radiator?

01-12-2011, 05:13 PM	#129
RCCAZ 1 Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Phoenix, AZ iTrader: (0) Posts: 288 Rep Power: 17	Jesse... are you planning to shroud that filter and the other open areas around the IC to force more air through the IC and radiator?

01-15-2011, 11:22 AM	#134
speedjunkie RCC Loves Me Not You Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Colorado Springs, CO iTrader: (1) Posts: 2,089 Rep Power: 19	^Good point, hadn't thought of that. That is getting pretty high. I don't have a stock hood so I forget how low they sit. They do sit pretty low right? lol