Sometimes you just have to know when to start over...

Nismo · 05-05-2010, 09:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TitaniumTT

oxy/ace torch and a deadblow has never failed me. Hell the torch and a #3 screwdriver has always worked when the impact fails to get the holding screws out

What are you using for secondary rails and injectors Kevin?

I don't have Torches right yet, again on the need to buy list LOL.

I am using the Stock RE rails and Modified Ford 1680cc Injectors.

Buggy · 05-05-2010, 09:12 AM

I'll have to swing by and see the progress on the car. I haven't seen it since I dropped it off at your place last fall. Maybe when I'm putting my break in miles on the Rx-4 a trip to Goderich will be in order.

Nismo · 05-05-2010, 04:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Buggy

I'll have to swing by and see the progress on the car. I haven't seen it since I dropped it off at your place last fall. Maybe when I'm putting my break in miles on the Rx-4 a trip to Goderich will be in order.

Yes come on over, you can even help me build the deck if you time it right LOL.

Time for another update:

While I was removing the front subframe I found lots of surface rust... Something I was so happy I thought this car was mostly free of, well it's not some idiot put a standard brake fitting in the master cylinder, and it pissed brake fluid everywhere! The entire drivers side frame rail doesn't have any paint any longer:

Here is the culprit, a whopping 3 threads of engagement if I'm lucky, not is it stupid to ruin the paint it's majorly unsafe!:

I have also been very busy painting the front suspension components:

Ball Joints:

I also cut off the old rubber boots, and installed the Energy Suspension boots:

Control arms, already have Energy Suspension bushings installed, with a fresh coat of aluminum paint:

and the subframe, 3 coats of matte black rustoleum later:

I have to figure the best way to neutralize the brake fluid and get a coat of paint on there. So updates might take a few days now.

FC3S.USD · 05-05-2010, 09:24 PM

Great updates.

This project is coming along well.

Just remember, don't add one parts without a tune

.

Buggy · 05-06-2010, 06:11 AM

Just give that area a good wash with some brake clean. That will get rid of any brake fluid. Shouldn't hurt any of the exisiting paint either.

***TitaniumTT*** · 05-06-2010, 06:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nismo

I have never had an easy time, the car has 75k miles, so they could be the originals. Also when you put two disimilar metals together you are going to get corrosion like that, specially with heat cycling like you see on a brake rotor.

There's the real reason right there. The salt on the rd doesn't help and the salt air makes things that much worse too.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Buggy

Just give that area a good wash with some brake clean. That will get rid of any brake fluid. Shouldn't hurt any of the exisiting paint either.

Brake clean is good for washing it but it absolutely WILL take paint off if let sit long enough.

Clean with brake clean
sand with a flat disc
reclean with brake clean
spray with rust converter
sand with flat disc again(this basically takes all the rust converter off except the converter in the pits)
prime
paint
touch yourself

Buggy · 05-06-2010, 10:17 AM

Ya, I should have added to that if you use the brake clean, wipe it dry with a rag right away. With base/clear paint, short term exsposure shouldn't be an issue. A good brake cleaner will evaporate pretty quickly anyway, wiping it down with a clean rag is just a little more insurance.

WE3RX7 · 05-06-2010, 12:07 PM

The rust is the same spot I had mine long ago before the engine bay was painted. Get your hands on some good cleaner (POR marine clean is good stuff, as is simple-green)... more important than the cleaner is to use a rust CONVERTER solution first. POR15 is an excellent product, but a bit pricey... once you have the converter on, sanded and primed and then sanded - apply your paint.

Its all looking pretty good so far though...

classicauto · 05-06-2010, 03:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by titaniumtt

clean with brake clean
sand with a flat disc
reclean with brake clean
spray with rust converter
sand with flat disc again(this basically takes all the rust converter off except the converter in the pits)
prime
paint
touch yourself

do not miss that step.

Nismo · 05-06-2010, 04:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by classicauto

do not miss that step.

I actually could have used your advice on the paint... And you have to be a smart ass and say that!

Thanks Joe, Thanks a lot man lol.

I am only doing a temp fix for now, too hard with the engine in, it will be redone either by myself, of Classicauto when ever I find money to paint it.

Buggy · 05-07-2010, 09:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nismo

I actually could have used your advice on the paint... And you have to be a smart ass and say that!

Thanks Joe, Thanks a lot man lol.

I am only doing a temp fix for now, too hard with the engine in, it will be redone either by myself, of Classicauto when ever I find money to paint it.

Ha, I actually thought the same thing. I saw Joe posted and thought, hmm maybe he had something inteligent to say about this paint/rust situation. Nope, nothing. I will admit though, that was funny.

Nismo · 05-14-2010, 09:56 PM

It's update time again.

The subframe, depowered power steering rack, control arms have been installed, and the rust has been fixed until I can do a proper repair when I yank the engine.

Down to bare metal, ready to be primed:

Primed, and ready for paint:

Painted, and waiting for subframe:

Steering rack freshly painted:

Subframe, steering rack and solid engine mounts installed:

Well, that's all for now, should be able to get the spindles painted and installed, wheel bearings re-packed with grease, and brakes painted and installed this weekend.

Monday I am having an appraiser come over so I can get the car in my name, then I can get a Safety, and I can Rock and Roll!!!

Nismo · 05-19-2010, 05:41 PM

Just ordered my Shine hood, getting it shipped to Port Huron, Michigan so I can pick it up, so no brokerage, and maybe some duty/tax. Was only 620 shipped, which sucks because 5 weeks ago we were at par .

I also got the car appraised, and is registered in my name, only Paid $16 bucks in PST to transfer it.

Max777 · 05-20-2010, 07:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nismo

Can't swing a sledge in the wheel well, and a Minisledge in on my need to buy list.

I have been busy, cleaning, stripping and painting everything bolted to the front subframe this week, should have updates in a few days!

What I meant was, you take off the brake caliper, and then you hit the rotor in the space that the caliper left open? Should be plenty of room, no?

***TitaniumTT*** · 05-20-2010, 08:45 PM

Kevin, did you remember to touch yourself while everything was drying?

05-05-2010, 09:12 AM	#77
Buggy I've been Wankeled! Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Mildmay, Ontario, Canada iTrader: (0) Posts: 260 Rep Power: 15	I'll have to swing by and see the progress on the car. I haven't seen it since I dropped it off at your place last fall. Maybe when I'm putting my break in miles on the Rx-4 a trip to Goderich will be in order. __________________ 1976 Rx-4 hardtop. Half bridge 3B 13B, S5 NA rotors, Renesis e-shaft, stat gears, and bearings, balanced rotating assembly, RE dual weber 36 DCD's 203rwhp 137ft-lbs torque DGRR 2011 3rd place 1974 Rx-4 all original 27,000 miles 1988 Rx-7 TII 320rwhp. DGRR 2012 3rd place

05-06-2010, 06:11 AM	#80
Buggy I've been Wankeled! Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Mildmay, Ontario, Canada iTrader: (0) Posts: 260 Rep Power: 15	Just give that area a good wash with some brake clean. That will get rid of any brake fluid. Shouldn't hurt any of the exisiting paint either. __________________ 1976 Rx-4 hardtop. Half bridge 3B 13B, S5 NA rotors, Renesis e-shaft, stat gears, and bearings, balanced rotating assembly, RE dual weber 36 DCD's 203rwhp 137ft-lbs torque DGRR 2011 3rd place 1974 Rx-4 all original 27,000 miles 1988 Rx-7 TII 320rwhp. DGRR 2012 3rd place

05-06-2010, 10:17 AM	#82
Buggy I've been Wankeled! Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Mildmay, Ontario, Canada iTrader: (0) Posts: 260 Rep Power: 15	Ya, I should have added to that if you use the brake clean, wipe it dry with a rag right away. With base/clear paint, short term exsposure shouldn't be an issue. A good brake cleaner will evaporate pretty quickly anyway, wiping it down with a clean rag is just a little more insurance. __________________ 1976 Rx-4 hardtop. Half bridge 3B 13B, S5 NA rotors, Renesis e-shaft, stat gears, and bearings, balanced rotating assembly, RE dual weber 36 DCD's 203rwhp 137ft-lbs torque DGRR 2011 3rd place 1974 Rx-4 all original 27,000 miles 1988 Rx-7 TII 320rwhp. DGRR 2012 3rd place

05-14-2010, 09:56 PM	#87
Nismo 400WHP or bust Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Kincardine, Ontario Canada iTrader: (1) Posts: 165 Rep Power: 17	It's update time again. The subframe, depowered power steering rack, control arms have been installed, and the rust has been fixed until I can do a proper repair when I yank the engine. Down to bare metal, ready to be primed: Primed, and ready for paint: Painted, and waiting for subframe: Steering rack freshly painted: Subframe, steering rack and solid engine mounts installed: Well, that's all for now, should be able to get the spindles painted and installed, wheel bearings re-packed with grease, and brakes painted and installed this weekend. Monday I am having an appraiser come over so I can get the car in my name, then I can get a Safety, and I can Rock and Roll!!! __________________ 1986 GXL- Being built with a 13B RE... http://www.rotarycarclub.com/rotary_...ead.php?t=9602 1986 Base-RB Exhaust, HKS filter, Solid Aluminum motor mounts, S5 TII motor, ACT Clutch, HKS SSQV, Light Weight Flywheel, Haltech E6X, 720cc 2ndaries, Koni Yellows, Tein Springs Koyo Rad, 250 WHP 230 FTLBS Stock turbo, and stock IC at 10psi. RIP!! The daily bitch- 1995.5 Toyota Tacoma- Trueflow airfilter, and Bilstein HD shocks. 2009 Toyota Corolla "S" TRD Filter... 40MPG

05-19-2010, 05:41 PM	#88
Nismo 400WHP or bust Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Kincardine, Ontario Canada iTrader: (1) Posts: 165 Rep Power: 17	Just ordered my Shine hood, getting it shipped to Port Huron, Michigan so I can pick it up, so no brokerage, and maybe some duty/tax. Was only 620 shipped, which sucks because 5 weeks ago we were at par . I also got the car appraised, and is registered in my name, only Paid $16 bucks in PST to transfer it. __________________ 1986 GXL- Being built with a 13B RE... http://www.rotarycarclub.com/rotary_...ead.php?t=9602 1986 Base-RB Exhaust, HKS filter, Solid Aluminum motor mounts, S5 TII motor, ACT Clutch, HKS SSQV, Light Weight Flywheel, Haltech E6X, 720cc 2ndaries, Koni Yellows, Tein Springs Koyo Rad, 250 WHP 230 FTLBS Stock turbo, and stock IC at 10psi. RIP!! The daily bitch- 1995.5 Toyota Tacoma- Trueflow airfilter, and Bilstein HD shocks. 2009 Toyota Corolla "S" TRD Filter... 40MPG

05-05-2010, 09:24 PM	#79
FC3S.USD The Newbie Join Date: Mar 2008 iTrader: (0) Posts: 15 Rep Power: 0	Great updates. This project is coming along well. Just remember, don't add one parts without a tune .

05-06-2010, 12:07 PM	#83
WE3RX7 RCC Addict Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: VA iTrader: (1) Posts: 1,812 Rep Power: 18	The rust is the same spot I had mine long ago before the engine bay was painted. Get your hands on some good cleaner (POR marine clean is good stuff, as is simple-green)... more important than the cleaner is to use a rust CONVERTER solution first. POR15 is an excellent product, but a bit pricey... once you have the converter on, sanded and primed and then sanded - apply your paint. Its all looking pretty good so far though...

05-20-2010, 08:45 PM	#90
*TitaniumTT* Test Whore - Admin Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Right Behind you son iTrader: (4) Posts: 4,581 Rep Power: 10	Kevin, did you remember to touch yourself while everything was drying? __________________ -The Angry Stig- DGRR 2009, 2011, 2012 & 2013 - Best FC DEALS GAP!! WOOHOOOO!!!!! 2015 Audi S4 - Samantha - Zero Brap S4 2004 RX8 - Jocelyn - 196rwhp, 19mpg fuel to noise converter 2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport - Wifey mobile - Now with 2.5" OME lift and 30" BFG AT KO's! So it begins 1998 Jeep Cherokee - 5 spd, 4" lift, 33" BFG's - Rotary Tow Vehicle 1988 'Vert - In progress 1988 FC Coupe - Gretchen -The attention whore BEAST! I'm a sick individual, what's wrong with you? I'm pure Evil I'm still insane, in the best possible way. I think Brian's idea of romance is using lube. Your rage caused the meteor strike in Russia. The Antichrist would be proud of his minion. You win with your thread. Most everything It's a truck with a steel gate on the back. Just a statement of fact Motec M820, AIM dash, ported 13B-RE Cosmo, 6-spd trans, 4.3 Torsen, custom twin wg fully divided mani, Custom 4" split into 2x 3" exhaust, Custom HMIC, Custom custom custom custom I like to welder stuff.... No Bolt-ons allowed. Dyno'ed @ Speed1 Tuned by me - 405rwhp on WG.... WM50 cuming soon. *-Angry Motherfcker Mode ENGAGED-**