Running diesel oil

vex · 01-09-2010, 04:59 PM

ba-da-ching:
http://www.rotarycarclub.com/rotary_...ead.php?t=7344

Rogue_Wulff · 01-09-2010, 06:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RETed

Really...

REALLY...

Do you think we're stupid enough to listen to some saleguy???

Please go away troll.

-Ted

You're a bit of an asshat. But, most people here already know that.....
Do some reasearch for yourself, and you will find that the oil he sells just happens to be one of the highest quality oils on the market. I actually run it in my vehicles myself. And yes, I also happen to buy it thru the guy you think is a troll.

One very important item to look for in an oil for a rotary, is flash point. Oils with a low flash point will burn away before making it thru the combustion cycle. On the other hand, too high a flash point can lead to hard carbon deposits, due to incomplete burning.

All engines, not just rotaries, have a certain amount of oil in the combustion chamber. The better the quality of oil, the longer the service life of the engine.

dudemaaan · 01-09-2010, 07:35 PM

So basically we need higher zddp (zinc) additives to keep everything from wearing and to reduce friction, but then this causes foaming issues, which I imagine doesn't do well for lubricating much of anything. On top of all that we have to worry about ash content to keep carbon buildup down, AND make sure the oil still lubricates under fuel dilution because we all know that's an issue we have too. Then we also have synthetic vs dino, cost vs frequency, carbon vs bearing wear, on and on and on, and who knows what changes everyone has made to the oils. What the F?? So much thought going into oil.

vex · 01-09-2010, 07:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dudemaaan

So basically we need higher zddp (zinc) additives to keep everything from wearing and to reduce friction, but then this causes foaming issues, which I imagine doesn't do well for lubricating much of anything. On top of all that we have to worry about ash content to keep carbon buildup down, AND make sure the oil still lubricates under fuel dilution because we all know that's an issue we have too. Then we also have synthetic vs dino, cost vs frequency, carbon vs bearing wear, on and on and on, and who knows what changes everyone has made to the oils. What the F?? So much thought going into oil.

Foaming comes about from too many detergents (and improperly balanced additives). a proper zddp only is needed when the oil itself breaks down. If it doesn't break down in the first place the zddp is your last line of protection.

TRISPEEDFD3S · 11-04-2011, 07:19 AM

I'm going to give Rotella T6 a try...5W-40 full synthetic. Wish me luck...

N.RotaryTech · 11-04-2011, 09:07 AM

Holy thread resurrection!

But I had a thought of:
What oil does the diesel race cars (like the Audi R10 TDI) use?
Might want to try that.

dudemaaan · 11-17-2011, 02:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TRISPEEDFD3S

I'm going to give Rotella T6 a try...5W-40 full synthetic. Wish me luck...

I run this in my Yamaha R1 and Raptor 700, it seems to be a very good oil and I'll probably also switch the RX7 over to it.

rgould · 11-17-2011, 09:24 PM

Thanks to the EPA the large oil producers have had to remove most if not all of the zinc and other high impact wear properties in the mass produced oils and this includes the diesel oils.

If you want the true old school style racing oils that you could get before the EPA got involved go with Joe Gibbs racing oil, Idemitsu, Red line or Royal Purple.

I'm running Joe Gibbs racing HR2 10-30 high zinc conventional. Or you could go with their HR4 full synthetic.

Good oils come at a premium price but you get what you pay for.

01-09-2010, 04:59 PM	#31
vex RCC Loves Me Not You Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Influx. iTrader: (6) Posts: 2,113 Rep Power: 19	ba-da-ching: http://www.rotarycarclub.com/rotary_...ead.php?t=7344 __________________ The Official FC Radiator Thread My Project Thread: Cerberus CCVT Virginia Rotary Group

01-09-2010, 07:35 PM	#33
dudemaaan Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Brenham, TX iTrader: (4) Posts: 335 Rep Power: 17	So basically we need higher zddp (zinc) additives to keep everything from wearing and to reduce friction, but then this causes foaming issues, which I imagine doesn't do well for lubricating much of anything. On top of all that we have to worry about ash content to keep carbon buildup down, AND make sure the oil still lubricates under fuel dilution because we all know that's an issue we have too. Then we also have synthetic vs dino, cost vs frequency, carbon vs bearing wear, on and on and on, and who knows what changes everyone has made to the oils. What the F?? So much thought going into oil. __________________ 500+ HP thanks to: Fast reacting IAT sensor thread! Mechanical Pre-turbo Water Injection Thread Dual Stock fuel pumps Thread T2 differential swap!

11-04-2011, 07:19 AM	#35
TRISPEEDFD3S Rotary Fan in Training Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: NORCAL iTrader: (0) Posts: 89 Rep Power: 17	I'm going to give Rotella T6 a try...5W-40 full synthetic. Wish me luck... __________________ My Cardomain! http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2179693

11-04-2011, 09:07 AM	#36
N.RotaryTech Home-brew Rotary Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: GooseCreek SC iTrader: (0) Posts: 552 Rep Power: 17	Holy thread resurrection! But I had a thought of: What oil does the diesel race cars (like the Audi R10 TDI) use? Might want to try that. __________________ '89 RX7 GTU, half-Bridge-port S4/S5 NA, E6K, Full RB exhaust, weekend warrior. '83 RX7, The "this might take awhile" project. '87 RX7 GXL, Rest In Pieces. '98 Subaru Impreza Outback-sport, rx7 rescue vehicle, down for repair. '94 Ford Ranger, daily.

11-17-2011, 09:24 PM	#38
rgould Rotary Non-conformist Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Speedway (Indianapolis) iTrader: (0) Posts: 38 Rep Power: 0	Thanks to the EPA the large oil producers have had to remove most if not all of the zinc and other high impact wear properties in the mass produced oils and this includes the diesel oils. If you want the true old school style racing oils that you could get before the EPA got involved go with Joe Gibbs racing oil, Idemitsu, Red line or Royal Purple. I'm running Joe Gibbs racing HR2 10-30 high zinc conventional. Or you could go with their HR4 full synthetic. Good oils come at a premium price but you get what you pay for.