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RX-7 1st Gen Specific (1979-85) RX-7 1979-85 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

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Old 11-30-2009, 02:52 PM   #1
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best swap

well i have a very clean 84 gsl se,now they pulled the 13b out and i have a great running 12a,but coming from 350 horse srt,i am feeling very slow so my?? what can i do to make her rip like she should,and not break the bank thanks guys.
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Old 11-30-2009, 03:55 PM   #2
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Best bang for the buck in my opinion is a 13BT swap out of a FC Turbo II. Thats what I have in my GSL-SE and it runs quite nicely
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Originally Posted by Wesley Carlock aka RotoriousRX7
"Rotarys come with built-in traction control, its called no torque"
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Old 11-30-2009, 05:57 PM   #3
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Ls7
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Old 11-30-2009, 09:42 PM   #4
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12at motor super rare and best motor the first gen ever had....
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Old 11-30-2009, 10:25 PM   #5
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+1 for TII.
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Old 12-01-2009, 12:24 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mazdadude7 View Post
12at motor super rare and best motor the first gen ever had....
And arent you also selling one?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wesley Carlock aka RotoriousRX7
"Rotarys come with built-in traction control, its called no torque"
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Old 12-01-2009, 06:52 AM   #7
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The best bang for the buck is quite simply the TII motor. They are in abundance, and they can make good power. To back up that good news, all you need to make one fit is the front engine cover off of a GSL-SE's 13B along with the oil pan. The ECU would be the complicated part of this task.

My personal approach is the 12A Turbo, using everything custom fabricated and going with a carbed 12A with a blow through turbo setup. It has been an extremely slow and long process, but she is getting there. Trust me, this setup will likely cost just as much as the TII swap, if not more, after all is said and done, but both engines can put out enough power to rock your world. Finding 12A parts in good shape are just too hard to do now, though. Go with the TII swap.

For this information I just require the 12A you'll be replacing.
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Old 12-01-2009, 10:05 AM   #8
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^^^haha yea ,thanks for the advice,the only prob with the turbo 2 is getting a good one,but that looks like what i will be shootin for.
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Old 12-01-2009, 10:35 AM   #9
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Well you can try to find a good one...Or just find one that needs work and rebuild it. The second is probably the better option. I spent 1500 on a JDM motor and trans and the motor lasted 6 months of hard driving before I cracked a seal. Then spent another $1500 for a rebuild. So $3k total or could save some and get a blown motor to start with and just have it rebuilt. Probably could save a $1k that way.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wesley Carlock aka RotoriousRX7
"Rotarys come with built-in traction control, its called no torque"
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Old 12-01-2009, 11:34 AM   #10
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Depends on what blew. If you lost coolant seals and the housings are still in good shape, then all you'll need is a seal kit and you could easily save that. However, if you fragged a seal, any seal, and wiped out the housings or the rotors, it'll be way more than that. I learned my lesson the hard way, any engine I ever buy from now on will be cracked open and rebuilt prior to my using it. Had I done that when I first got my RE, all I would've needed was a seal kit. Instead I wiped out a rotor and a housing. I got lucky and found an engine that spun a bearing but the internals were awsome. So my eshaft + bearings plus the new motor's plates, housings, rotors and seals + a new 0-ring kit landed me an engine that lasted until GoodYear blew it up.

So yeah, even if you're buying a used motor with great compression, crack the bitch open. Learn from my mistake.
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Old 12-01-2009, 05:23 PM   #11
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Quote:
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And arent you also selling one?
yea so??? LoL its sold anyway... just waiting on the cash
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Old 12-02-2009, 05:59 PM   #12
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or 13b 6port na motor, aggressively ported with a 600 holley! Then no turbo stuff to worry about and will be able to run with alot of the turbo cars.
I had a 13b 6port with the stock FI and she ran good but to have added a second set of injectors or to go to a 600cfm holley would have made her come alive and none of the wiring/FI crap to deal with
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Old 12-02-2009, 06:17 PM   #13
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^Your GSL-SE was fast for N/A...But my TII was still a little faster lol
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wesley Carlock aka RotoriousRX7
"Rotarys come with built-in traction control, its called no torque"
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Old 12-02-2009, 09:51 PM   #14
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[QUOTE=Nutsid;103386]The best bang for the buck is quite simply the TII motor. They are in abundance, and they can make good power. To back up that good news, all you need to make one fit is the front engine cover off of a GSL-SE's 13B along with the oil pan. The ECU would be the complicated part of this task.
QUOTE]


could you elaborate on the ecu part. im planning on doing the same thing
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Old 12-02-2009, 10:59 PM   #15
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I think he is saying if you want to make the stock TII ecu work. Go standalone and its a cinch.
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"Rotarys come with built-in traction control, its called no torque"
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