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Old 09-27-2009, 03:01 PM   #31
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The injectors were in the engine when I bought the swap from Landers. I have access to new injectors at work (for cheap) so I might pick up a set.

I am going to borrow an AFM and see if that does anything. We will see. I was too busy today fixing the Jeep, so I will get to it this week when the wife is out of town.

V8? Pfft, that's for sell outs!






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Old 09-27-2009, 03:30 PM   #32
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If the car sat for a long periord of time my guess would be injectors. I've heard and been witness to cars that sat for months and the moisture that is inherent with todays soup they call gas sits in the injectors and corrodes them to the point of sticking. When cut open the corrosion looks like cocaine.
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Old 09-27-2009, 03:34 PM   #33
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injectors do have some small parts in there. Doesnt have much room for foreign material. Hell rebuilt injectors really cant even sit too long before you can start seeing issues with them sticking.
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Old 09-27-2009, 03:39 PM   #34
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All true. And after it sat all winter under the cover, condensation was trapped under it, and there was surface corrosion on some of the underhood bits. Like the turbo compressor housing, water pump housing, bov mount.

That is why I think something got corroded in the harness, and is keeping the injectors from firing, or the injectors themselves are to blame.

We will see. Thanks for the input guys!
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Old 09-29-2009, 09:46 AM   #35
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im having a very similar issue. im kinda stumped on what it is right now. it could be the AFM. thats what im thinking at this point.

does the crank angle do anything after start up? ive had a problem with that wire being loose on start up.
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Old 09-29-2009, 03:51 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TitaniumTT View Post
If the car sat for a long periord of time my guess would be injectors. I've heard and been witness to cars that sat for months and the moisture that is inherent with todays soup they call gas sits in the injectors and corrodes them to the point of sticking. When cut open the corrosion looks like cocaine.
"Want to Buy:

old rotten injectors. Must be very corroded.
only pure columbian corrosion accepted
i'll pay whatever you want. Even BJ's"
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Old 09-29-2009, 05:56 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rx7 FC TII View Post
im having a very similar issue. im kinda stumped on what it is right now. it could be the AFM. thats what im thinking at this point.

does the crank angle do anything after start up? ive had a problem with that wire being loose on start up.
yea it does quite a bit after start up.
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Old 09-29-2009, 08:55 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by classicauto View Post
"Want to Buy:

old rotten injectors. Must be very corroded.
only pure columbian corrosion accepted
i'll pay whatever you want. Even BJ's"
[Bob Saget]I've sucked dick for used injectors[/Bob Saget]
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Old 09-30-2009, 12:06 AM   #39
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So do I get to help tear apart a turbo motor?
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Old 09-30-2009, 06:45 AM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by classicauto View Post
"Want to Buy:

old rotten injectors. Must be very corroded.
only pure columbian corrosion accepted
i'll pay whatever you want. Even BJ's"


Hell man, pull your filler apart and if it's anything like mine you'll find plenty of it behind the flapper door. If you get creative you can figure out a way to extract it from the filter. That's where it always seems to land.
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It's a truck with a steel gate on the back. Just a statement of fact

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No Bolt-ons allowed. Dyno'ed @ Speed1 Tuned by me - 405rwhp on WG.... WM50 cuming soon.
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Old 09-30-2009, 07:42 AM   #41
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S5....no flapper, just a bullet plunger!
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Old 10-01-2009, 07:21 AM   #42
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Fiveomotorsport.com

Good injectors for a cheap price. Siemen Dekas, Bosch, ect

They sell FC rx-7 specific milled injectors too!
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Old 10-01-2009, 08:20 AM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FC3S Murray View Post
Fiveomotorsport.com

Good injectors for a cheap price. Siemen Dekas, Bosch, ect

They sell FC rx-7 specific milled injectors too!
Pretty sure I can get stock injectors cheaper than anyone here But, if it is injectors, I am getting 750cc's and an Rtek.

A quick question:

If it is the AFM, shouldn't the check engine light be on when the car is running? Because it is NOT.
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Old 12-23-2009, 08:24 PM   #44
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Welcome back thread.

I need to get this thing running ASAP. I found something else, and I would like to get the most money out of it as possible. Or if that deal falls through, it needs to be tip top for DGRRX.

So, here is what I am going to do in order. Compression test is done, and its all good.
-replace AFM
-replace injectors
-replace harness
-replace ECU

While the UIM is off, I will inspect the LIM gasket and the o-rings a such on the injectors.

Everyone cross their fingers.
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Old 12-24-2009, 04:36 AM   #45
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you can test an afm for resistance. You can also do a test on the injectors you keep to check that they are witin specs.(requires injectors testor, not sure where to get it) I'm sure that you are aware of this, but some places like corksport do electrical harness rebuilds, althrough it's pricey. If you do end up going with this option, may I suggest the 2.0 rtek, or perhaps an Apexi power FC with banzai link connector? I think that this is simply worth its weight in gold if you need/want to replace your ecu anyway. It should (dont quote me) work like stock, and give you a lot more control of the engine.

Used Power FC's can be picked up for roughly the price of a new megasquirt unit, or you can go with a full standalone like a haltec in which case the harness would come with it. Seeing as how some sell for around 600, and a rebuilt hanress is around 800? that seems like a deal to me. Opinions?
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