worth rebuilding my engine?

RETed · 09-09-2009, 07:57 PM

Buy any of "cheap" ATF.
Don't buy the stuff that's specific to one model - i.e. Honda.

NoDOHC · 09-09-2009, 09:15 PM

A few additional pieces of info:

The engine idles rather smoothly for a dead face on a rotor, but revs very slowly (like it is running on one rotor).

We unplugged each rotor in its turn. The engine sputtered and died if the front rotor was unplugged, but did try to stay running. The engine sputtered and died almost as fast when the rear rotor was unplugged (still trying to stay running).

The engine would not start on either rotor alone.

This goes against my previous experience with blown rotaries, when they would start and run and drive fine (except for extreme gutlessness and very hot exhaust).

I guess I am not sure that this is an engine issue or if it is a fuel injection issue.
It almost acts like it is running very rich or has very retarded timing.

Maybe we can pull the exhaust manifold off and look at the apex seals, that will indicate if the engine is worth rebuilding.

Silver86 · 09-10-2009, 05:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NoDOHC

Maybe we can pull the exhaust manifold off and look at the apex seals, that will indicate if the engine is worth rebuilding.

youll have to let me know when youre free next. well have to get something going.

RETed · 09-10-2009, 11:38 AM

You need to try and do some basic troubleshooting then?

Eliminate ignition (spark) first, since this is the easiest.
First, confirm all 4 spark plugs are firing.
Then, confirm (with a timing gun) that they are firing at the proper moment.

If ignition system looks good, move onto the fuel...
I would swap the fuel injectors just as a test - does the problem change?
Swap either front to back (primaries) or swap primaries for secondaries.
Also, might want to check spray pattern from the primaries by tying the fuel injectors to the rail and crank the engine with the injectors out of their holes - helps to have a friend here.

-Ted

***TitaniumTT*** · 09-13-2009, 08:27 PM

Before fiddling with swapping injectors I would make sure that there is proper rail pressure. It could literally be as simple as a bad pump, regulator or even a clogged filter.

NoDOHC · 09-13-2009, 10:40 PM

For that matter, I have lots of good S4 injectors, I will bring a set down (but I am guessing that is not the problem, I think it is sensor related). We will check the timing too. (I know all coils are firing, we already tested that). If the engine didn't idle so smoothly, I would be guessing vacuum leak.

Fuel pressure is also a good one (I think I have a gauge somewhere).

It is also possible that I have driven my Haltech '86 so long that I forgot how slowly stock rotaries rev. (although I think the '91 revs faster).

Silver86 · 09-14-2009, 05:38 AM

what i think ill do before we get busy with this... im gonna buy a new fuel filter and some newer gas... the 1/4 tank thats in there now is the same 1/4 tank that was in there when i bought the car.

09-09-2009, 09:15 PM	#17
NoDOHC The quest for more torque Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Sheboygan, Wisconsin iTrader: (1) Posts: 855 Rep Power: 17	A few additional pieces of info: The engine idles rather smoothly for a dead face on a rotor, but revs very slowly (like it is running on one rotor). We unplugged each rotor in its turn. The engine sputtered and died if the front rotor was unplugged, but did try to stay running. The engine sputtered and died almost as fast when the rear rotor was unplugged (still trying to stay running). The engine would not start on either rotor alone. This goes against my previous experience with blown rotaries, when they would start and run and drive fine (except for extreme gutlessness and very hot exhaust). I guess I am not sure that this is an engine issue or if it is a fuel injection issue. It almost acts like it is running very rich or has very retarded timing. Maybe we can pull the exhaust manifold off and look at the apex seals, that will indicate if the engine is worth rebuilding. __________________ 1986 GXL ('87 4-port NA - Haltech E8, LS2 Coils. Defined Autoworks Headers, Dual 2.5" Exhaust (Dual Superflow, dBX mufflers) 1991 Coupe (KYB AGX Shocks, Eibach lowering springs, RB exhaust, Stock and Automatic)

09-13-2009, 08:27 PM	#20
*TitaniumTT* Test Whore - Admin Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Right Behind you son iTrader: (4) Posts: 4,581 Rep Power: 10	Before fiddling with swapping injectors I would make sure that there is proper rail pressure. It could literally be as simple as a bad pump, regulator or even a clogged filter. __________________ -The Angry Stig- DGRR 2009, 2011, 2012 & 2013 - Best FC DEALS GAP!! WOOHOOOO!!!!! 2015 Audi S4 - Samantha - Zero Brap S4 2004 RX8 - Jocelyn - 196rwhp, 19mpg fuel to noise converter 2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport - Wifey mobile - Now with 2.5" OME lift and 30" BFG AT KO's! So it begins 1998 Jeep Cherokee - 5 spd, 4" lift, 33" BFG's - Rotary Tow Vehicle 1988 'Vert - In progress 1988 FC Coupe - Gretchen -The attention whore BEAST! I'm a sick individual, what's wrong with you? I'm pure Evil I'm still insane, in the best possible way. I think Brian's idea of romance is using lube. Your rage caused the meteor strike in Russia. The Antichrist would be proud of his minion. You win with your thread. Most everything It's a truck with a steel gate on the back. Just a statement of fact Motec M820, AIM dash, ported 13B-RE Cosmo, 6-spd trans, 4.3 Torsen, custom twin wg fully divided mani, Custom 4" split into 2x 3" exhaust, Custom HMIC, Custom custom custom custom I like to welder stuff.... No Bolt-ons allowed. Dyno'ed @ Speed1 Tuned by me - 405rwhp on WG.... WM50 cuming soon. *-Angry Motherfcker Mode ENGAGED-**

09-13-2009, 10:40 PM	#21
NoDOHC The quest for more torque Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Sheboygan, Wisconsin iTrader: (1) Posts: 855 Rep Power: 17	For that matter, I have lots of good S4 injectors, I will bring a set down (but I am guessing that is not the problem, I think it is sensor related). We will check the timing too. (I know all coils are firing, we already tested that). If the engine didn't idle so smoothly, I would be guessing vacuum leak. Fuel pressure is also a good one (I think I have a gauge somewhere). It is also possible that I have driven my Haltech '86 so long that I forgot how slowly stock rotaries rev. (although I think the '91 revs faster). __________________ 1986 GXL ('87 4-port NA - Haltech E8, LS2 Coils. Defined Autoworks Headers, Dual 2.5" Exhaust (Dual Superflow, dBX mufflers) 1991 Coupe (KYB AGX Shocks, Eibach lowering springs, RB exhaust, Stock and Automatic)

09-14-2009, 05:38 AM	#22
Silver86 now what? Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: SE Wisconsin iTrader: (0) Posts: 178 Rep Power: 16	what i think ill do before we get busy with this... im gonna buy a new fuel filter and some newer gas... the 1/4 tank thats in there now is the same 1/4 tank that was in there when i bought the car. __________________ 1986 Rx7 coupe - arctic silver - sold aka - 20bforme

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