FC3S Murray's never ending build.

[MaczPayne]

Close call heh. When I first got my rebuild running, temps were around 95-98C for the first few days of driving, until I got all the bubbles out. Now it's solid at 82C

[FC3S Murray]

Originally Posted by MaczPayne

Now it's solid at 82C

Yep, That is the water temp I had the last three hours of driving her. Put on a whopping 32 miles in city. Had to stop for lunch too though.

As for my intial tune from my last motor it is pretty damn close. I was a little lean on cruise but all-in-all it was the same AFR's driving aroound town I had with the last motor. I would love to get my damn idle at least above 12 insead of this 11.5 BS. Damn PFC.

My vacuum also got better just after today, now I am seeing -15 at idle.
Gonna wash her tonight and will have some video and pics up of her running.

She feels great too btw in regards to throttle response and just power to 3000 rpm(didn't go any higher).

Gave her a little wash this evening too with help from my little helper

[project86]

great day all in all!

[TitaniumTT]

Hey Sean, yeah man, Ted's right, I wouldn't sweat it at all. The EXACT same thing happened to me with engine #3. Took forever to get to 180* then SKYROCKETED to 210 with me hosing the piss out of the rad but the bubble was most likely caught in the WP which means no circulation. Oil temps were like 150's which is a big cooling factor in our motor's. I wouldn't sweat it at all. Just be easy with the girl

As for the more vac, well, she broke in a little bit. I need to find the conversion sheet for MAP -> "hg, it's fricken killing me. I'm seeing high 40-low 50's vac. My Autometer boost gauge I know is a little off from the Motec so I just go off the Motec.... anyone know the conversions?

Still Love that color & damn, you put everyone to work eh?

[project86]

haha sean i dont think you could have found a better helper! she s gonna be able to tune the damn thing!

[MaczPayne]

-15" vac is just about right, what's your idle? Mine is humming at around 16 and sometimes 17" at 800RPM since I finished the break-in

[TitaniumTT]

I want to see 19". What's that in kpa damnit?

[FC3S Murray]

My idle is @ 998 RPM.

I am intrigued as well in regards to a conversion table.

[MaczPayne]

www.onlineconversion.com has all the conversions you can think of

19" Hg = 64.341 kpa

15" Hg = 50.795 kpa

[FC3S Murray]

Thanks Max.

I took it out for about two hours last night and put another 52 miles on her. Here in Great Falls 52 miles in city is a shit load of drving and punching your kidneys.

I CANT stand people who feel the need to fuck with me when I am driving. I no shit had about 6 cars/trucks toy with me. All I would do is smile and if they asked why no go I would just say "break in". This old ass Nova kept messing with me until I finally told him to piss off and come see me in a month. He laughed and was actually cordial after the fact. He just put a 383 stoker in it and just got done breaking in the motor.
I am seriously about to go cray with my idle AFR. I dont want to do negative inj lag to get my idle leaner BUT if I have to I will. Better now before any major tuning happens.
Is negative lag bad for your injectors? I know it shouldn't effect duty cycle but can't remember what the down side is.

I do have to say I love how my motor sounds at idle. Between the intake and exhaust ports it has a awesome almost lobe sound, kinda like an aggressive cam on a piston motor. Good stuff.

Only other "issue" right now is my damn NAPA high dollar belts are noisy, really noisy. Even with belt dressing, adjusting tension and doing the crayon trick they still make noise. I might have to go O'rielly cheapies

[TitaniumTT]

Originally Posted by MaczPayne

www.onlineconversion.com has all the conversions you can think of

19" Hg = 64.341 kpa

15" Hg = 50.795 kpa

Hey Johnson, I've used that site alot but it doesn't make any sense whatsoever. The less kpa you have, the more vac you pull. 100 kpa = 1 bar = 0 vac, 0 kpa should = perfect vac or about 30", so what are we missing here?

Originally Posted by FC3S Murray

Thanks Max.

I took it out for about two hours last night and put another 52 miles on her. Here in Great Falls 52 miles in city is a shit load of drving and punching your kidneys.

I CANT stand people who feel the need to fuck with me when I am driving. I no shit had about 6 cars/trucks toy with me. All I would do is smile and if they asked why no go I would just say "break in". This old ass Nova kept messing with me until I finally told him to piss off and come see me in a month. He laughed and was actually cordial after the fact. He just put a 383 stoker in it and just got done breaking in the motor. Honestly it was loud and not fast at all.

I am seriously about to go cray with my idle AFR. I dont want to do negative inj lag to get my idle leaner BUT if I have to I will. Better now before any major tuning happens.
Is negative lag bad for your injectors? I know it shouldn't effect duty cycle but can't remember what the down side is.

I do have to say I love how my motor sounds at idle. Between the intake and exhaust ports it has a awesome almost lobe sound, kinda like an aggressive cam on a piston motor. Good stuff.

Only other "issue" right now is my damn NAPA high dollar belts are noisy, really noisy. Even with belt dressing, adjusting tension and doing the crayon trick they still make noise. I might have to go O'rielly cheapies

Crayon trick?

[FC3S Murray]

Originally Posted by TitaniumTT

Crayon trick?

Yeah, buddy told me to line the outside of the belts with crayon. Actually last night the belts were quite by the end of the drive. Maybe the belts just required a little break in themselves.

More miles added last night. My EGT temps are a great tool for tuning cruise. My damn rear rotor seems to burn a little hotter even with 2% more fuel to the rear injectors. I almost wonder if that damn HKS cast mani is just the problem. The runners are not equal so maybe that plays a role in temperture recording(however the probes are equal distance from mani inlet AND equal depth).

[antman0408]

[QUOTE=TitaniumTT;94667]Hey Johnson, I've used that site alot but it doesn't make any sense whatsoever. The less kpa you have, the more vac you pull. 100 kpa = 1 bar = 0 vac, 0 kpa should = perfect vac or about 30", so what are we missing here?
[QUOTE]

Vacuum is rated at inches of mercury, so the higher the vacuum, the higher the kpa value.
100 kpa = 1 bar = almost 30" of mercury in vacuum
0 kpa = 0" of mercury = no vacuum

[MaczPayne]

Originally Posted by TitaniumTT

Hey Johnson, I've used that site alot but it doesn't make any sense whatsoever. The less kpa you have, the more vac you pull. 100 kpa = 1 bar = 0 vac, 0 kpa should = perfect vac or about 30", so what are we missing here?

This is very tricky to explain. I've probably typed and deleted a whole bunch of sentences just because they sound confusing.

"The less kpa you have, the more vac you pull." This is true, only if 0 is perfect vacuum, and any value above that is pressure. What's missing is the idea of reference zeros. Our boost gauges put the reference at atmospheric pressure (1bar, 100kpa, 14.5psi). Below that point is vacuum, usually measured in inches of mercury, for standard units. 30" Hg = 0psi absolute = 0kpa absolute = -14.5psi = -100kpa = -1 bar.

You might be wondering, "why is 30" Hg positive then?" I believe the reason for that is units for above atmospheric pressures are different. If boost read in " Hg, vacuum would then read in - " Hg. Also the generally accepted standard unit for vacuum is inches of Mercury, which is why negative signs are neglected.

My boost controller reads in psi, so in vacuum, I'm somewhere around -7.3 psi, for example.

Hope this explanation helps. I can help clarify any other details if you so inquire. I am most likely still editing this as you read, heh.

[FC3S Murray]

Shit my boost controller reads -15 now at idle. Max, yours is -7.3 at partial throttle then??