FC3S Murray's never ending build.

[project86]

SEAN just in case you dont check the montana section in the "other forum" text me about a pot luck that should be going on next sunday at the "other" kyle's house.. but you should read the post anyway

[FC3S Murray]

Update:

I have everything in and cleaned. I WAS going to build on Tuesday BUT I ordered a twin EGT set up that I will get Monday afternoon. I have decided to wait until I get my exhst mani drilled and taped before I get the motor in.

I will have monday, tues and wed off the week of the 17th. IF i actually get the EGT probes in on Monday and have the mani drilled and tapped by Tuesday I might just take Thurs and Friday off.

Regardless I am ready to build and have watched so many damn rebuild vids/ read the FSM I can build this fucker in my sleep.


Hopefully the break in will not be too time consuming. I think I will average 60-80 miles a day. More on the weekends.

[FC3S Murray]

SHIT, Do I need to get a different front counter weight now that I actually have 8.5:1 rotors instead of the S4 9.4:1 rotors?

I cant remember if I need a different one OR if S4 and S5 was the only difference between all models...

[FC3S Murray]

Nevermind, I know what to look for. My S4 NA rotors ARE indeed s4 because of the maching process (cast opposed to S5 milled) in the recessed bevel. So I can use the front counter weight becasue my TII rotors are the same. You keep the counter wieghts SERIES specific.

........

[TitaniumTT]

Yup.

So you start stacking yet?

For breakin, here's what I usually do

Start and let her idle for 15 minutes before I rev her a little. And at that point it's just a few slow blips to 2k or so. After a 1/2 of run time I shut her down. I repeat that the next day but a few blips to 3k. Pull the plugs and clean them off.

Start driving. For miles 0-100 I keep the revs below 3500 and yes it is difficult
101-200 - 4500rpm
210-300 - 5500 rpm - Change oil
301-400 - 6000 rpm
401-500 - 6500 rpm
501-600 - 7000rpm
601-700 - start adding boost but keeping it to a bare minimum - again, difficult.
700+ miles - dyno.

This should entail at least 8+ heat cycles as well and a comp test before the dyno. Good luck bro, keep us updated.

[WE3RX7]

Lol... your breakin cycle is vastly different then mine. Perhaps this is why I'm on engine #4....

[TitaniumTT]

Perhaps you should share.......... BTW - I'm on engine #4 as well.

[EJayCe996]

Originally Posted by TitaniumTT

Start driving. For miles 0-100 I keep the revs below 3500 and yes it is difficult

When I helped my friend finish up his "stroked" SR20det (well I guess its an SR22det now technically) he ends up calling me about 2 days after driving it around for break in and says. "Hey... I kinda did something bad" and in typical a typical fashion, similar to reading a TTT story where the IMPORTANT information is left out til the end, my heart sank thinking the worst with the engine. Then he says "I couldn't help it and took it to 6k once, do you think it will be okay?" and I let out a sigh and told him he's good but don't do it again.

[FC3S Murray]

Alright....motor is stacked! Had a buddy assist yesterday and besides a couple hic-ups it went smooth for being my first solo build.

Had a couple corner peices break the super glue due to very small corner seal eyelet mis-alignment(to much petro and rotating the rotor once placed in the housing to check for binding ended up probably moving the eyelet ever so slightly). I DO HAVE TO SAY that Halomar is more of a bitch to apply then the pet jelly. I got a hang of applying the halomar after the intermediate housing but I think I got a tube of it that was too thick.

Only thing I started to doubt myself on AFTER it was stacked was if I inserted the small apex seal srings in correctly. I did long springs first, then slid the apex/spring partailly down and then put the small spring in until it hit the bottom notch of apex seal. I used a flat tip jewelers screw driver to push the small spring down to ensure it was on the notch. Anyway, I don't know why I started to doubt myself BUT I had to get a dead rotor and rotor housing and put in a spare apex seal with spring to see what installing the small spring WRONG was like. Of course it went a hell of a lot deeper down if you missed the notch and overall reassured me I did it right.
I also have 6 audibly even pulses when I spin the motor so that was reasurring.

I am a pussy and worry too much anyhow.


Brian, break in seems short compared to the 1500 mile recommendation.


Thanks for the help Kyle!

Update soon

[WE3RX7]

My breakin period was always just keep it out of boost up to 4K RPM for the first 100 miles, varying the engine speed (no highways, all back roads, stop and go). Pretty boring part. Then same procedure but revving to 6K until 500 miles (it would sometimes hit small amounts of boost, less than 2psi). After 500 miles I let it boost 6-8psi to 6K RPM. Then from 500 to 1000 miles I keep the boost at 6-8 but take it to 8K RPM... after that its fair game.

Proceding all of that though I would typically have already let the engine run/stop about 4 or 5 times. The initial startup I let it run for a min of 30 minutes provided no issues come up (fuel leaks, coolant leaks, vac leaks etc)...

So my procedure is a little more "risky" I suppose... but then again, I know guys who slap motors together and beat the snot out of them within the first 100 miles, so who knows... it all depends I guess.

[FC3S Murray]

So I ended up measuring my endplay tonight. Came out to a perfect .002

I also put on my front cover & accessories, oil pan and started to fit my EGT probes. I had my machine shop at work drill and tap my HKS cast mani so all I need to do now is route the wiring and figure out a place for my gauges.

Engine install starts on Monday and should be on the road tues(most likely sooner.....wife HATES me right now since I sneek into the garage whenever she turns her back)

I will post pics soon.

[TitaniumTT]

Sweet! Nice going Sean, glad to hear everything worked out.

What are you using for probes/gauges?

And don't worry to much about the wife, they get over it quick..... unless you make the mistake that I did and make a smartass remark like, "well hun, until they figure out a way to make tailpipes warm moist and inviting, I'll still need you for something." Best thing to do is encourage a few.... ok ALOT of "girls nights out." Weekends away visiting the in-laws wroks well for 7 progress too. Stock up on the redull and rock 36 hour day

[project86]

[QUOTE=

"well hun, until they figure out a way to make tailpipes warm moist and inviting, I'll still need you for something." QUOTE]

hahaha thats hilarious. it went together pretty nicely if i do say so myself. the first rotor we put in was a little bitch though. sean ill be there monday, i asked for it off so i could be there for some of it at least.

[batmanfc]

Looks awesome. Is that a miata battery in the current setup pic?

[FC3S Murray]

Well I dropped the motor in yesterday and routed the turbo/dp/exhaust system. Also routes my EGT leads and re-wrapped my HKS mani. I am surprised how much the DEI Ceramic rattle can held up. No flaking what so ever.

Really all I have left is the UIM, LIM and fuels set up. Add some fluids and start her up. However I can not find a damn place to mount these egt gauges! it is killing me.

Brian, you mentioned I should do a comp test before I let it run then one after an hour correct?

I am most likely going to start her on Sunday so I will try to get it on video. I am a little nervous for the comp test but if it is low due to my parinoia about the apex seal spring installation then I will just open her up and stack again(hope not).