3rd gen Alignment specs from Pettit Racing

dhays · 03-21-2008, 01:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by albertomg

I guess it would depend on how competitive you are at autox. Too much negative camber on the street isn't always a good thing.

I'm not competitive at all. The recommended front camber settings for 18" wheels for short track is only -1.0 or only .2 more negative camber than the "street" recommendation. Rear is only -.2 instead of 0.

Would you think that would be too much for the street?

Dan, why equal and if so, what would you set it at?

SPICcnmFD · 03-21-2008, 07:56 AM

^That shouldn't be to much at all. I would make the toe zero in the front, and at the most just a in in the rear. Toe will wear you tires faster than camber, as your basically pushing the tires sideways down the road.

albertomg · 03-24-2008, 10:39 PM

I didn't realize you were running 18s. I should have read your post better. That should probably work well but I've never driven on 18s on the FD.

I personally follow the school of thought that says use as much camber as you Do use for the majority of the time.

In regular street driving even my -1.5 degrees of camber is more than I need. On track it is good. For autox it is enough for my current skill level. If I were a more competitive driver such as Chadwick, that would be a different story. Even with only -1.5 the car likes to follow ruts and road irregularities. My time is spent about 60% street 30% track and 10% autox. On my next alignment, I'll probably drop down to -1.2 up front depending on what my tires look like after my next track event.

You play with that balance of good street mannered car that tracks straight when you start going to more race inspired alignment settings. OEM dials in just a bit of toe in up front to help in that straight line stability. I absolutely hated zero toe up front as the car was more darty than I'd like. It sounds good on paper and works well on track but I didn't like it on street. Even just .06 of a degree will help that and won't hurt tire wear in any noticeable way.

Another thing I noticed when experimenting with alignment last year is that I enjoyed having a little less negative camber in the rear than I was running in the front. More negative camber in the rear (all else being equal) will make the car understeer a bit more. Perhaps Dan can shed some light on his recommendation also.

03-21-2008, 07:56 AM	#17
SPICcnmFD Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: B'ham, AL iTrader: (0) Posts: 329 Rep Power: 17	^That shouldn't be to much at all. I would make the toe zero in the front, and at the most just a in in the rear. Toe will wear you tires faster than camber, as your basically pushing the tires sideways down the road. __________________ 1993 Rx-7 SM2 #11 At the local AutoX: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9VOSQkkSLQs Speed for Sale shootout 2007: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JiqlyAkGmpg A few laps at Barbers: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6_h5q...x=0&playnext=1

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03-24-2008, 10:39 PM	#18
albertomg Rotary Fan in Training Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Bay Area CA iTrader: (0) Posts: 91 Rep Power: 17	I didn't realize you were running 18s. I should have read your post better. That should probably work well but I've never driven on 18s on the FD. I personally follow the school of thought that says use as much camber as you Do use for the majority of the time. In regular street driving even my -1.5 degrees of camber is more than I need. On track it is good. For autox it is enough for my current skill level. If I were a more competitive driver such as Chadwick, that would be a different story. Even with only -1.5 the car likes to follow ruts and road irregularities. My time is spent about 60% street 30% track and 10% autox. On my next alignment, I'll probably drop down to -1.2 up front depending on what my tires look like after my next track event. You play with that balance of good street mannered car that tracks straight when you start going to more race inspired alignment settings. OEM dials in just a bit of toe in up front to help in that straight line stability. I absolutely hated zero toe up front as the car was more darty than I'd like. It sounds good on paper and works well on track but I didn't like it on street. Even just .06 of a degree will help that and won't hurt tire wear in any noticeable way. Another thing I noticed when experimenting with alignment last year is that I enjoyed having a little less negative camber in the rear than I was running in the front. More negative camber in the rear (all else being equal) will make the car understeer a bit more. Perhaps Dan can shed some light on his recommendation also.