Engine Rebuild

***TitaniumTT*** · 05-19-2009, 08:18 AM

So here's the backstory with this motor. It was an SMP motor that was assembled with RE housings, RE sleeves, new corner, side and apex seals but S6 front thrust bearings in an S5 stat gear. The motor ran for 25 minutes before it seized. I bought the motor and tore it down. Replaced the front bearings including the stat gear, e-shaft and the housings. I used a near MINT set of S5 N/A housings that I ported. The motor ran for ~1000 miles before it overheated during an emmisions test (idiots and a different story all together) The engine was never the same.

When I had 50 miles on the engine I did a comp check with a piston style gauge and got 105 in the front, and 110 in the rear. Three perfect even bounces. The day of the overheat but after the fact I got 90 psi in the front and 100 in the rear with one LOW bounce using the same gauge. That's when I started the insurance claim for the new engine.

So a few days ago I was @ KDR to have a comp test done for the insurance company (the shop that overheated it owes me a motor basically) and we got three perfect bounces @ high 112's in the front, two @ low 113's and one at 88 in the rear. It seems that a side seal is jammed. So what to do?

I have an o-ring kit that I won @ the DGRR raffle but need corner, side, and apex seals, maybe.

I could
A) crack the rear iron off and replace the one stuck side seal and the two corner seals associated with it. (~$120 in parts)

B) Dissasemble the entire engine and replace all the corner and side seals (+~$200)

C) Dissasemble the entire engine and replace all the corner, side, and Apex seals with the RA Super Seals and springs (+~$550)

What to do? The motor as she sits has about 4k in mileage on her. I believe the housings are in the same shape that they were in when the engine was first assembled. I could re-use the apex seals I'm sure but I want this engine to sustain alot of abuse. Shooting for 380 RWHP, 15 PSI and 8k rpm...... I'm so torn and want to order parts in the next day or two.

Thoughts, opinions?

-B

lt1_fd3s · 05-19-2009, 08:31 AM

well, after seeing all the time and effort you've put into the car, I would suggest you just bite the bullet and re-do it. it sucks and is more $$, but I guess for me it would be piece of mind. Everything is back to being the same, not only part have been replaced. Was damage done during over heating? only one failed now, when will the next one fail?

those are my thoughts, best of luck my friend

rx4ur7 · 05-19-2009, 02:42 PM

If it has run that long and it did overheat I wouldn't suggest trying replace just the rear seals. Too much of a chance of something going wrong with other housing seals.
Tear it all down and spec everything. Especially rotor or rotor housing distortion.
If all clearences are good on seals and rotors use them. You may find that one side seal is too long causing it to stick. Or there is a foreign object stuck somewhere.

View Poll Results: Which seals to replace
Replace the one stuck seal and the two corner seals	1	33.33%
All new side and corner seals	0	0%
All new side, corner, and RA seals	2	66.67%
Voters: 3. You may not vote on this poll

05-19-2009, 08:18 AM	#1
*TitaniumTT* Test Whore - Admin Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Right Behind you son iTrader: (4) Posts: 4,581 Rep Power: 10	Engine Rebuild - which route to take So here's the backstory with this motor. It was an SMP motor that was assembled with RE housings, RE sleeves, new corner, side and apex seals but S6 front thrust bearings in an S5 stat gear. The motor ran for 25 minutes before it seized. I bought the motor and tore it down. Replaced the front bearings including the stat gear, e-shaft and the housings. I used a near MINT set of S5 N/A housings that I ported. The motor ran for ~1000 miles before it overheated during an emmisions test (idiots and a different story all together) The engine was never the same. When I had 50 miles on the engine I did a comp check with a piston style gauge and got 105 in the front, and 110 in the rear. Three perfect even bounces. The day of the overheat but after the fact I got 90 psi in the front and 100 in the rear with one LOW bounce using the same gauge. That's when I started the insurance claim for the new engine. So a few days ago I was @ KDR to have a comp test done for the insurance company (the shop that overheated it owes me a motor basically) and we got three perfect bounces @ high 112's in the front, two @ low 113's and one at 88 in the rear. It seems that a side seal is jammed. So what to do? I have an o-ring kit that I won @ the DGRR raffle but need corner, side, and apex seals, maybe. I could A) crack the rear iron off and replace the one stuck side seal and the two corner seals associated with it. (~$120 in parts) B) Dissasemble the entire engine and replace all the corner and side seals (+~$200) C) Dissasemble the entire engine and replace all the corner, side, and Apex seals with the RA Super Seals and springs (+~$550) What to do? The motor as she sits has about 4k in mileage on her. I believe the housings are in the same shape that they were in when the engine was first assembled. I could re-use the apex seals I'm sure but I want this engine to sustain alot of abuse. Shooting for 380 RWHP, 15 PSI and 8k rpm...... I'm so torn and want to order parts in the next day or two. Thoughts, opinions? -B __________________ -The Angry Stig- DGRR 2009, 2011, 2012 & 2013 - Best FC DEALS GAP!! WOOHOOOO!!!!! 2015 Audi S4 - Samantha - Zero Brap S4 2004 RX8 - Jocelyn - 196rwhp, 19mpg fuel to noise converter 2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport - Wifey mobile - Now with 2.5" OME lift and 30" BFG AT KO's! So it begins 1998 Jeep Cherokee - 5 spd, 4" lift, 33" BFG's - Rotary Tow Vehicle 1988 'Vert - In progress 1988 FC Coupe - Gretchen -The attention whore BEAST! I'm a sick individual, what's wrong with you? I'm pure Evil I'm still insane, in the best possible way. I think Brian's idea of romance is using lube. Your rage caused the meteor strike in Russia. The Antichrist would be proud of his minion. You win with your thread. Most everything It's a truck with a steel gate on the back. Just a statement of fact Motec M820, AIM dash, ported 13B-RE Cosmo, 6-spd trans, 4.3 Torsen, custom twin wg fully divided mani, Custom 4" split into 2x 3" exhaust, Custom HMIC, Custom custom custom custom I like to welder stuff.... No Bolt-ons allowed. Dyno'ed @ Speed1 Tuned by me - 405rwhp on WG.... WM50 cuming soon. *-Angry Motherfcker Mode ENGAGED-** Last edited by TitaniumTT; 05-19-2009 at 08:23 AM..

05-19-2009, 08:31 AM	#2
lt1_fd3s WNC Tour Guide Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: WNC iTrader: (3) Posts: 780 Rep Power: 17	well, after seeing all the time and effort you've put into the car, I would suggest you just bite the bullet and re-do it. it sucks and is more $$, but I guess for me it would be piece of mind. Everything is back to being the same, not only part have been replaced. Was damage done during over heating? only one failed now, when will the next one fail? those are my thoughts, best of luck my friend __________________ WNC Tour Guide - Including the Tail of the Dragon - PM for details

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05-19-2009, 02:42 PM	#3
rx4ur7 Rotary since 1972 Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Tucson iTrader: (0) Posts: 231 Rep Power: 17	If it has run that long and it did overheat I wouldn't suggest trying replace just the rear seals. Too much of a chance of something going wrong with other housing seals. Tear it all down and spec everything. Especially rotor or rotor housing distortion. If all clearences are good on seals and rotors use them. You may find that one side seal is too long causing it to stick. Or there is a foreign object stuck somewhere.