flooding out FC3S4 N/A

[Shadow24v]

ill look into that if it still is idling oddly.

im just waiting for a new starter. the goombah at auto-stoned told me it would be in sunday but didn't realize it was drop-shipping from the manufacturer and wouldn't be in til tuesday i probably could have had one elsewhere by sunday but they were all more expensive and i also turned my core in at auto-stoned well, at least this should help with starting as the old one was finicky about how fast it would spin over and if it decided to get stuck or not.

replaced the clutch MC, it was leaking into the insulation and thats why i didn't see the leak inside the car. just need to bleed it and it should be good to go

[Shadow24v]

picked up the new starter today and its a MUCH beefier unit than the one i pulled out. about 1/2"-1" larger diameter on the motor casing and they helicoiled one of the bolt holes. the upper one i believe, that had the long bolt through the rear end plate and a nut to hold the starter in place. i'll see how it fits today, i don't foresee a problem but you never know lol

[TehMonkay]

Fuel tank drops out pretty easy after being drained

[vex]

Originally Posted by Shadow24v

picked up the new starter today and its a MUCH beefier unit than the one i pulled out. about 1/2"-1" larger diameter on the motor casing and they helicoiled one of the bolt holes. the upper one i believe, that had the long bolt through the rear end plate and a nut to hold the starter in place. i'll see how it fits today, i don't foresee a problem but you never know lol

huh?

The upper bolt hole is a through hole. You're supposed to have a nut and bolt connect on the upper. If they helicoiled the lower, I could see that.

[Shadow24v]

yeah, the top one was helicoiled for the long bolt and nut, the bottom was still just a through hole for the short bolt.

Got everything in and she turned right over and caught. revved to 3000 and idled down to around 1000. she's still smoking like a chimney though, blue and white smoke. as far as i can tell she seems to be running fine except for some timing issues. Im going to reset the timing today hopefully and see if that helps. L1 was misfiring a little (you could hear it when it did and see it on the light) and T2 wasn't firing at all.

Any idea what all the smoke could be? i hope to get a vid soon so you can see/hear what is going on. Also, after you rev it a bit to move it, the idle dropped to 500ish. I hope i don't need a rebuild

[vex]

gas/oil, did one of your control rings let go?

[Shadow24v]

beats me, it was mostly blue oil looking smoke after starting but after idling for a while that was subsiding then it started spewing whitish smoke. Im going to see if it does it again today when i try and set the timing.

When i changed the oil, it was overfull with gas/oil mixture, im wondering if this adversely affected some seals in the engine. Also, there is a little bit of rust in the radiator, could this lead to a coolant seal blowing out?

[Shadow24v]

re-read your post, it was flooding out a lot before i bought it. that's what i believe was the source of the fuel diluted oil

Im pretty sure its not coolant as it doesn't have the trademark sweet smell. it smells like oil smoke and i think its burning a lot of oil, im going to double check the dipstick tomorrow morning (about 3 minutes after shutoff it was reading down 1/2 a qt from before i started it 2 days ago) im going to the junkyard tomorrow to nab a fan, pulsation damper and possibly the MOP as well. im thinking mine might be stuck wide open


btw, here's a vid of the smoke im talking about. its a cell phone vid (on dialup ATM) and i don't know why there's no sound, but it was idling at a good 750-800 and timing was bang on (i reset it and the idle)

[vex]

I saw your problem! A magic dog wanted to appear... so it said "poof! I'm Here"

Honestly it looks almost like a sea foam treatment, but if you're burning that much oil something is definitely wrong. I would check your oil injectors to see if they're actually injecting the correct amount of oil into the system. If they check out I would then look at the fuel as a possible cause: AKA some one dumped in tons of seafoam and it's burning off. If the gas is good, then I would see where your oil sits after running it for a little bit. If it's gone low your oil control rings may have taken a crap and you'll need to rebuild.

[Shadow24v]

i'll check the MOP (getting one from a j-yard today anyways). fuel is new 89 octane. i REALLY hope it doesn't need a rebuild, thats expensive it seems to have good compression and starts reliably right now so...

[Shadow24v]

well, it looks like its eaten over 1/2 a quart of oil in about 30 minutes of run time. It was at the F mark on the dipstick when i first started it after all the work, now its down to halfway between the F and Add mark. It still smokes like a banshee and the MOP seems ok, the lever moves freely and all. the J-yard MOP was frozen and missing the lines and injectors so i didn't get it. It was also idling up and down between 1000 and 1500 before i turned it off. smoke got worse with rpms as well

is this probably a case of bad oil seals then?

[Rx-7fetish]

[Shadow24v]

Originally Posted by Rx-7fetish

thanks.....



anyways, i'd like to see if its actually the MOP before committing to a rebuild. Does anyone have a known good mechanical MOP with lines for sale?

[Rx-7fetish]

I might i will have to check tomorrow or saturday, wait, cant he just disconnect the rod for the pump and add some oil to the tank to premix and run without it to see if it stops smoking as bad?? MAKE sure you premix before running though

[NoDOHC]

The MOP can't use anywhere near a pint in 30 minutes. During break in, I had the MOP on my 4 port maxed out all the time and it only visibly smoked at idle. (No noticable consumption in 45 minutes of 3000 - 4500 rpm break-in).

The old 6-port engine (199,000 miles) smoked like a chimney above 6,000 rpm (yes, higher revs make the oil pressure higher, which makes the oil seals leak more). The smoke should also let up a little as the engine warms up if it is the oil seals.

edit: You can replace the oil seals ($140.00 at the dealer). You will also need to replace the coolant seals and front cover gasket while you have it apart (about $150.00 for a gasket set).