How to save a lot of money when replacing brake booster hoses.

Max777 · 03-11-2009, 02:59 PM

Hey everyone. I had several vaccum leaks when I got my car back together, and so far eliminated all of them, save this one. When I took off the hoses that go to the brake booster, on of them developed a row of cracks in it. I looked up the price of the two molded hoses, and didn't like what I saw, so I decided to see if I could get some regular hose to fit.

How I did it:

I bought a foot of 3/8 transmission cooler hose

cut the check valve out of one of the hoses

put some WD40 in one of the lines, and slipped the check valve back in, using the vaccum pipe to help seat it deep in the hose.

After that, I ran into a snag with the S shaped hose, and found out that a longer piece of regular hose fits just fine if you only trim the vaccum "neck" that bolts onto the LIM.

Here are some pics:

This saves you a lot of money over having to buy shaped hoses, and takes barely any time at all to do.

nitronatefc · 03-11-2009, 03:32 PM

Your firewall is too clean, and hurts my eyes to look at...

rx7 FC TII · 03-11-2009, 04:01 PM

damn. more pics of engine bay lol

and yes this is a really good idea. ill have to do this when i get some time off.

N.RotaryTech · 03-11-2009, 04:05 PM

Good tip with trimming.
I used extra fuel hose I had, an since its not trimmed (yet) its a little loopy.

Max777 · 03-11-2009, 05:17 PM

yeah, if you trim the silver bend thingy, it makes a normal hose fit really well onto what's left.

another tip: use a 14mm socket to unbolt the vaccum pipe from the LIM, and cut/file it, then reinstall using some loctite gel to seal up the old copper washers (or use new COPPER washers if you got em, lol)

As far as the check valve, I'm glad i noticed it, it's in the shorter hose connecting to the booster. if you look close, you can see a "bulge" in the fresh hose, this is where the valve is.

OLD pics: ( have gotten a koyo and electric fan, installed a Master Cylinder, as well as rewrapped my wiring harness, and deleted the OMP, among some other things)

Used to look like this:

NoDOHC · 03-30-2011, 10:55 PM

You are correct ^^^ the check valve has a purpose. However, the engine is typically pulling vacuum while you are trying to stop anyway, so it is not noticeable. If the engine quits, you will have no power-assist brakes (with the check valve you get a couple pumps after the engine quits)

03-11-2009, 02:59 PM	#1
Max777 Pirate Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Central IL iTrader: (5) Posts: 1,323 Rep Power: 18	How to save a lot of money when replacing brake booster hoses. Hey everyone. I had several vaccum leaks when I got my car back together, and so far eliminated all of them, save this one. When I took off the hoses that go to the brake booster, on of them developed a row of cracks in it. I looked up the price of the two molded hoses, and didn't like what I saw, so I decided to see if I could get some regular hose to fit. How I did it: I bought a foot of 3/8 transmission cooler hose cut the check valve out of one of the hoses put some WD40 in one of the lines, and slipped the check valve back in, using the vaccum pipe to help seat it deep in the hose. After that, I ran into a snag with the S shaped hose, and found out that a longer piece of regular hose fits just fine if you only trim the vaccum "neck" that bolts onto the LIM. Here are some pics: This saves you a lot of money over having to buy shaped hoses, and takes barely any time at all to do. __________________ Rotaries:They are NOT that complicated!

03-11-2009, 05:17 PM	#5
Max777 Pirate Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Central IL iTrader: (5) Posts: 1,323 Rep Power: 18	yeah, if you trim the silver bend thingy, it makes a normal hose fit really well onto what's left. another tip: use a 14mm socket to unbolt the vaccum pipe from the LIM, and cut/file it, then reinstall using some loctite gel to seal up the old copper washers (or use new COPPER washers if you got em, lol) As far as the check valve, I'm glad i noticed it, it's in the shorter hose connecting to the booster. if you look close, you can see a "bulge" in the fresh hose, this is where the valve is. OLD pics: ( have gotten a koyo and electric fan, installed a Master Cylinder, as well as rewrapped my wiring harness, and deleted the OMP, among some other things) Used to look like this: __________________ Rotaries:They are NOT that complicated! Last edited by Max777; 03-11-2009 at 05:23 PM..

03-30-2011, 10:55 PM	#6
NoDOHC The quest for more torque Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Sheboygan, Wisconsin iTrader: (1) Posts: 855 Rep Power: 17	You are correct ^^^ the check valve has a purpose. However, the engine is typically pulling vacuum while you are trying to stop anyway, so it is not noticeable. If the engine quits, you will have no power-assist brakes (with the check valve you get a couple pumps after the engine quits) __________________ 1986 GXL ('87 4-port NA - Haltech E8, LS2 Coils. Defined Autoworks Headers, Dual 2.5" Exhaust (Dual Superflow, dBX mufflers) 1991 Coupe (KYB AGX Shocks, Eibach lowering springs, RB exhaust, Stock and Automatic)

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03-11-2009, 03:32 PM	#2
nitronatefc less roof, more turbo... Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Stevens Point, WI iTrader: (0) Posts: 25 Rep Power: 0	Your firewall is too clean, and hurts my eyes to look at...

03-11-2009, 04:05 PM	#4
N.RotaryTech Home-brew Rotary Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: GooseCreek SC iTrader: (0) Posts: 552 Rep Power: 17	Good tip with trimming. I used extra fuel hose I had, an since its not trimmed (yet) its a little loopy.