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RX-7 2nd Gen Specific (1986-92) RX-7 1986-92 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

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Old 12-18-2008, 11:54 AM   #31
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Originally Posted by WE3RX7 View Post
^ Just run the good stuff right before you engine pops so you'll have a clean core to rebuild
Thats one way of looking at it...assuming your car goes the slow way.

Running the good stuff will also give you a almost carbon free environment the whole way making for a healthier and stronger engine until death.






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Old 12-18-2008, 03:58 PM   #32
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IMO anything will be better then putting engine oil into the chamber with the stock MOP.

I used to run an off brand back when I had a few close successions of engine failure and to be honest I noticed no difference between engines I've ran on amsoil (current ones). There's probably differences between the two with additives and whatnot, but both are much MUCH better suited to being burnt in the chamber vs. 10W30 or whatever is in your oil pan. Either one will be leaps and bounds ahead of stock in terms of carbon buildup on the internal parts.
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Old 12-18-2008, 06:38 PM   #33
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Wow, so many differing opinions! I was initally wondering because my FC's oil pan gasket is seeping and I haven't been able to fix it yet. The premix is an insurance policy. I was also thinking along the lines of ClassicAuto and how premix is probably better for the engine than the engine oil.
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Old 12-18-2008, 07:48 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by ArtOfRuin View Post
Wow, so many differing opinions! I was initally wondering because my FC's oil pan gasket is seeping and I haven't been able to fix it yet. The premix is an insurance policy. I was also thinking along the lines of ClassicAuto and how premix is probably better for the engine than the engine oil.
How is premix a safety measure for your oil pan seeping?
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Old 12-18-2008, 10:18 PM   #35
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+1. The oil in your oil pan is not only fed to the OMP...its also fed through the eccentric shaft, oil cooler, rotors, and stationary gear bearings.

Premixing will not help any of that.
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Old 12-18-2008, 10:30 PM   #36
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Originally Posted by My5ABaby View Post
How is premix a safety measure for your oil pan seeping?
I know, I know, I've been putting off getting the oil pan gasket fixed. Wishful thinking, really, like the premix will somehow stave off my engine's destruction in case the oil pan somehow goes dry (the seepage is very slow, however, and I check the oil level religiously). I'll have to put it off a little longer. We're going to get slammed with over a foot of snow all this weekend, so I won't be able to get it to the shop.
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Old 12-19-2008, 08:35 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ArtOfRuin View Post
I know, I know, I've been putting off getting the oil pan gasket fixed. Wishful thinking, really, like the premix will somehow stave off my engine's destruction in case the oil pan somehow goes dry (the seepage is very slow, however, and I check the oil level religiously). I'll have to put it off a little longer. We're going to get slammed with over a foot of snow all this weekend, so I won't be able to get it to the shop.
Heh, alright then. Had me a bit worried.

You can just use black RTV and not have to worry about a gasket. Hell, my new Mazda 6 didn't come with a gasket from the factory, just RTV.
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Old 12-19-2008, 11:51 AM   #38
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Oil pan gaskets have a record of failing. I haven't had mine fail on me yet but heard lots of accounts where they did fail. It seems the FD guys have it especially bad.

Next time I rebuild the engine, I'm strapping on an oil pan brace and try using some sort of gasket maker instead.
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Old 12-19-2008, 12:10 PM   #39
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The oil pan is a stamped piece of quasi thin metal, so I bet a bunch of them get a bit warped causing leakage.
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Old 12-19-2008, 06:02 PM   #40
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I already have the gasket, so I'm going to have both that and RTV used to stop the leaking.
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