Gutting or Removing the Thermostat

[RETed]

Originally Posted by retaliate1st

From experience, I beg to differ. I had my engine rebuilt by what I later realized to be an inexperienced shmuck. When I picked up the car the add coolant alarm/light stayed on constantly. It was completely full w/ no air pockets. (I drained and refilled it 3 times...)

800 miles later: coolant in the engine; rebuild. I discovered my lack of thermostat, put one in, and ever since the alarm / light has been off.

Sorry, I've never had this problem once I figured how to fill correctly.
I will run the engine with the coolant cap off.
I top off the coolant once everything gets sucked down.
I cap it when it starts to overflow consistently.
I've found that this will guarantee all air bubbles are out of the system.
This works with thermostat / gutted theromstat / no thermostat.
This works with the filler on the the thermostat cover for S4's and remote on the rad for S5's.
I don't fuck with the stupid bleed screws anymore, cause they tend to strip and fuck up the stupid o-ring.


-Ted

THX Ted.. I knew that you, like me knew how to properly fill a cooling system and knew that wether u have a t-stat or not will NOT cause the buzzer to go off.

[Archie]

In retaliate's defense, he has an FD as opposed to an FC. I'm not sure how the two electronic/engine set-ups would really make a difference.

IMO, I would gut the bad boy, but leave it in there. Fuel atomization due to proper engine operating temp is important. I guess it would also depend on what you're using your car for, like others have indicated.

[PercentSevenC]

I didn't like having a gutted thermostat in my GLC. The coolant temp would drop too much on the highway, and it was bad not having a heater in the colder months.

[Whizbang]

i will probably NOT run the thermostat in the hill climb car BUT i am also planning on trying out an electric Meizere water pump

[RETed]

Originally Posted by Archie

In retaliate's defense, he has an FD as opposed to an FC. I'm not sure how the two electronic/engine set-ups would really make a difference.

That does make a difference...
That stupid AST system really makes it a PITA to get rid of all the bubbles in an FD.
That's one of the many reasons why I hate those things. :P


-Ted

[Phoenix7]

isn't that the point of the AST in the first place though??

I still don't know what to do....all the reasons against gutting/removing the t-stat are good....

[Whizbang]

what about using a "swirl pot"

[TehMonkay]

Originally Posted by Signal 2

IIRC, there is also a route that allows coolant to bypass the radiator and return directly to the motor. Isn't it always be open without the t-stat?

This is the exact problem you will run into.

[Signal 2]

Originally Posted by RETed

That does make a difference...
That stupid AST system really makes it a PITA to get rid of all the bubbles in an FD.
That's one of the many reasons why I hate those things. :P


-Ted

I intend on getting one of these before I'm due for another coolant change. http://www.drivewerks.com/catalog/sh...CAT591_pg2.htm
Seems like it would help.