Go Back   Rotary Car Club > Tech Discussion > RX-7 2nd Gen Specific (1986-92)

RX-7 2nd Gen Specific (1986-92) RX-7 1986-92 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 10-09-2008, 10:39 AM   #31
My5ABaby
Sigh.....
 
My5ABaby's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Murfreesboro, TN
iTrader: (6)
Posts: 2,377
Rep Power: 19
My5ABaby will become famous soon enough
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by SpooledupRacing View Post
well when u drop 6K or more on a motor spending 40.00 ever couple months to change the oil is a small price to pay for added protection..

remember it cost money to play the game..

how much do u want to spend?

Now dont get me wrong I have no problem with conventional oil.. if I used it I would use GTX thats my preference.. HOWEVER IMO the synthetic oil is a better oil and its not that much more in my eyes.
I guess I'm speaking from an S4 N/A perspective. I spent a total of about $1000 to have my engine rebuilt so it seems foolish to spend that much on oil. However, if I had an engine with new housings/plates/etc., I might justify the synthetic.






__________________
1986 Sport: 132k miles, 5A (Sapphire Blue Metallic), Tokico Blues, Racing Beat Springs, Custom LED tailights (only S4 LED tails in the world), SSR Mark II, Racing Beat exhaust, S5 black interior, Rotary Resurrection rebuild at 120k miles

Community Service Manual

RotorWiki

"Imagination costs nothing; we could build square locomotives or fly to Mars" - Felix Wankel

Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, but today is a gift. That is why it is called the "present."
My5ABaby is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-09-2008, 10:48 AM   #32
SpooledupRacing
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Well honestly there is people who will drop 10G into an engine and still wont use synthetics and thats ok again oil will ALWAYS be about choice..

I use it because I think ANY engine will benifit from it thus why I added it to my 220K bmw, my wifes 150K jeep and I will use it from the begining in my turbo rotary engien when I am done..

hell I used it in my n/a engine.. at 70K it was well worth it. IMO
  Reply With Quote
Old 10-09-2008, 12:14 PM   #33
classicauto
crash auto?fix auto
 
classicauto's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
iTrader: (0)
Posts: 816
Rep Power: 17
classicauto is on a distinguished road
Default

I'm a conventional man myself. For me, putting out 400whp my oil gets dilluted with gas FAR FAR before the oil ever reaches its useable life span in mileage. I change it roughly every 2000kms.

10-30 at the start of the season, 20w50 in the peak of summer, 10w30 in the fall.

IMO, once you get much above stock power and are injecting a little more then stock fuel, your oil will be contaminated very fast. Whether you do $45-50 dollar synthetic chnages, or $15 dino changes the oil gets gassy either way and needs to be changed....so I opt for the cheaper of the two options.

EDIT: its also just carquest brand oil since I deal alot with them. I also use their oil filters which are carquest badged WIX filters.
classicauto is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-09-2008, 03:00 PM   #34
IH8DSM
RCC Contributor
 
IH8DSM's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
iTrader: (0)
Posts: 610
Rep Power: 17
IH8DSM is on a distinguished road
Default

gtx 20w 50 year round
__________________

85 rx7 gsl-se - AA tags/ never ending project will never run
IH8DSM is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-09-2008, 07:57 PM   #35
TehMonkay
Rotary Fanatic
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Louisville, KY
iTrader: (0)
Posts: 302
Rep Power: 17
TehMonkay is on a distinguished road
Default

I'm sorry, it is 15-w40

Quote:
Originally Posted by C. Ludwig View Post
I recommend either Shell Rotella or Chevron Delo. Both are available in a 15-40w. A while back zinc was removed from all "automobile" engine oils. Zinc is a major part of the additive package that helps protect engine against wear on sliding surfaces. Mostly you think of cam lobes and followers. In a rotary engine there is a high amount of surface are that slides (ie, apex, side, corner seals, oil seal steels). Many, many professional engine builders and hobbyists have seen what can happen as a result of new auto oils not having the same additives as they had just a few years ago. The catch to all this is that "diesel" oils still have the zinc in their package. I've been running Rotella for years without issue. Both the standard and synthetic formulas. If you still have the OMP connected then you'll want to stick with the non-synthetic.
From Chris Ludwig, that's why I started using it.
__________________
My car blows up everytime I start it, it's rotary

TehMonkay is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-09-2008, 08:42 PM   #36
FortyfiveD
Amudextrious
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Garden Grove,CA
iTrader: (0)
Posts: 67
Rep Power: 17
FortyfiveD is on a distinguished road
Default

15w40 Castrol GTX for daily, Motul 15w50 Competition Oil for the track, Redline light shock and heavy in the trans and rear diff.
__________________
90 GXL-DD and Track Monster
87 GT-X-Under Construction
FortyfiveD is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 12:23 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Hosted by www.GotPlacement.com
Ad Management by RedTyger