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Old 04-18-2014, 07:54 PM   #226
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Received very bad news today. Wheels aren't shipping until Tuesday. Although, there is a chance they'll ship Monday.

So, it looks like the chances of it getting to DGRR is about 10%. Once they show up, I still need rubber, but that's easy.

I'm still working on getting it ready though, I have a glimmer of hope. If not. Next year.


Dammit.






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Old 04-19-2014, 01:22 PM   #227
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djmtsu View Post
Received very bad news today. Wheels aren't shipping until Tuesday. Although, there is a chance they'll ship Monday.

So, it looks like the chances of it getting to DGRR is about 10%. Once they show up, I still need rubber, but that's easy.

I'm still working on getting it ready though, I have a glimmer of hope. If not. Next year.


Dammit.
You're still running the 4X120 bolt pattern aren't you?
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Old 04-19-2014, 02:23 PM   #228
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Yes.
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Old 04-19-2014, 02:40 PM   #229
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Yes.
Dang. Stupid oddball size. I don't have any of those around, otherwise I could have dropped some off to you on the way by.
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Old 05-12-2014, 07:36 AM   #230
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Small update.

I haven't done shit in the past few weeks

Although, new tires are being mounted today!!!

Maybe a car party is in order to get the rest of it screwed together....
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Old 05-12-2014, 10:31 PM   #231
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I'm down, give us a date and hopefully I can make it! (not this weekend or the next)

Maybe the 31st or June 7th?
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Old 06-05-2014, 10:34 AM   #232
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Unless I get the engine in today, it looks like Sunday will be the day.

Should have it on the ground today. I'll get some pics of it with the new wheels.

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Old 06-05-2014, 12:03 PM   #233
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Old 06-05-2014, 01:52 PM   #234
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Old 06-05-2014, 03:12 PM   #235
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Stuck here. Need help stabbing the engine.
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Old 06-05-2014, 03:20 PM   #236
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tilt trans upward. wiggle some more. re align clutch disk if necessary (and make sure it fits on splines while you are at it)

wheels look like they are sticking out. need better pics
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Old 06-05-2014, 04:20 PM   #237
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You can stab it yourself...I do it all the time because I don't have dependable friends.
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Old 06-05-2014, 04:25 PM   #238
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FerociousP View Post
tilt trans upward. wiggle some more. re align clutch disk if necessary (and make sure it fits on splines while you are at it)
Tried that, no luck. Might need to readjust the chain, but it would be just as easy to have someone here to help.

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wheels look like they are sticking out. need better pics
They aren't. In the back there is about 1.5 finger gap between the tire and suspension, and they sit just inside the fender lip. Same for the front, but more room on the inside. They are 15x7 0 offset all around with 225/50/15's.

I'll get better pics when the engine is in, fenders are on, and the rear fuel tank and bumper are back on. There is still alot of weight not on the car, and the suspension hasn't been compressed yet.
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Old 06-06-2014, 08:34 AM   #239
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Tried that, no luck. Might need to readjust the chain, but it would be just as easy to have someone here to help.
You have my number... I'm like 10 min away.
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Old 06-06-2014, 09:46 AM   #240
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FC Zach View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by FerociousP View Post
Wait wait wait...










Quote:
Originally Posted by FerociousP View Post
tilt trans upward. wiggle some more. re align clutch disk if necessary (and make sure it fits on splines while you are at it)
Yeah.... the way we always did it was get a floor jack underneath the tranny to get the most clearance between the motor mounts and whatever subframe. An engine tilter/load leveler has always worked well for me. I've able to get my engine, bolted to the trans, installed singlehandedly.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/trd-9099/overview/



Quote:
Originally Posted by rx7 vinnie View Post
You can stab it yourself...I do it all the time because I don't have dependable friends.
Werd.....

A few tips I've learned over the years that work across a variety of cars.

Engine tilters help for larger engines or trannies.... IE installing a Jeep tranny by yourself with a floor jack, helps get the proper angle on the engine.

Head to the hardware store and get a few long bolts the same thread as the tranny bolt. Cut the head off and thread them into the lower bolt holes on the block. If you have a stud extractor, proceed. If you don't have a stud extractor cut a notch into the open end of it so that you can unscrew them with a flat head screwdriver.

Line up the lower bolt holes on the tranny with the now studs on the engine. Get in the engine bay, grab onto the block, adjust yourself so nothing pointy is aimed at your manly bits and thrust with the grace of an overweight 40yo virgin. Once the dowels are in the bellhousing. Lower the tranny jack slightly, install one top tranny bolt, remove the lower "studs" and replace with tranny bolts one at a time.

This worked for me when trying to install my Jeeps tranny.... there's no real lower bolt holes, only on the top of the block....

Quote:
Originally Posted by djmtsu View Post
Tried that, no luck. Might need to readjust the chain, but it would be just as easy to have someone here to help.
Load Levels help but the reality is the rotary is so damn light and compact that if it starts level you can pretty much get it wherever you want it. I've been impatient before and not used the load leveler, instead took a piece of flat strapping and tied it to the engine pick point, then gone through one of the links on the chain to the picker, tied a butterfly knot in the flat strap (basically turning it into a 3:1 block) and pulled on it until at a better angle. See above about grabbing on and thrusting

Quote:
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I'll get better pics when the engine is in, fenders are on, and the rear fuel tank and bumper are back on. There is still alot of weight not on the car, and the suspension hasn't been compressed yet.
DO IT NOAW!
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