It looked so simple at first!

GySgtFrank · 01-11-2014, 07:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JL1RX7

Oh and the VIN plate on the firewall. Don't forget that!

Well, hopefully the mods won't show from the outside. It should look relatively stock at first glance. Unless you lift the hood (or bonnet for Bri-Bri).

GySgtFrank · 01-15-2014, 08:41 PM

frame & hoops by GySgtFrank, on Flickr

I got the other side in and welded up today with a bit of a struggle. Deleted the brake vacuum booster and incorporated the brake master cylinder mounting plate into the plate for the hoop. Far more compact mounting. I'll have to see how well the brakes work without it. This should make the frame rails pretty strong and get rid of any flex.

hades · 01-15-2014, 09:08 PM

Good luck man. That's a lot of work.

GySgtFrank · 01-15-2014, 09:41 PM

Thanks Jeff. It keeps me out of trouble, sort of.

chibikougan · 01-15-2014, 09:58 PM

Nice

djmtsu · 01-16-2014, 06:58 AM

Soooooo.....you gonna make DGRR this year?

Yikes!

GySgtFrank · 01-16-2014, 08:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by djmtsu

Soooooo.....you gonna make DGRR this year?

Yikes!

I think so. Despite how it looks, I'm actually getting pretty close to buttoning it up to reinstall everything.

GySgtFrank · 01-19-2014, 05:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TitaniumTT

Pics or I don't believe you

lower frame rail by GySgtFrank, on Flickr

The lower rail is what the cradle will bolt to. Should have the rail on the other side done tonight or tomorrow.

chibikougan · 01-19-2014, 07:39 PM

Nice!

GySgtFrank · 01-19-2014, 07:46 PM

Thanks Cheebs. At least it has a nice flat surface to bolt the lower cradle to when I get that finished up.

chibikougan · 01-19-2014, 07:50 PM

That is a little handy...

GySgtFrank · 01-30-2014, 04:45 PM

So... I screwed up again. The upper mounts are off by 1/2" on the driver's side and the passenger side was off by 3/4 - 1". I could have sworn I had them right that time, but it was not to be. I did have enough adjustment to get them where they needed to be, but they were at the very end of the adjustment and then some. Not comfortable running it that way so here we go again. Trying to get an accurate measurement with very few squared up surfaces is a pain in the ass. So I need to cut them out one more time. Getting a little smarter this time and building a stand alone box for the mounts. That way I can tack it in place and move the whole thing when I get the alignment equipment back on it.

upper A arm mount part 3 by GySgtFrank, on Flickr

Also did a little modification while the mounts are out. I didn't care much for the camber adjustment as it tended to move too far while adjusting and it was a pain to bring it back. So I drilled out the front holes and welded 1/2 - 20 nuts on them then put a cap and nut on the other side as well. That way I can run a fine thread 1/2" bolt in each side to push the mounting block back and forth for fine adjustment. It will also help lock it in place more securely.

Cross my fingers and hope I get it right this time.

JL1RX7 · 01-30-2014, 04:47 PM

Measure once weld 4 times?

GySgtFrank · 01-30-2014, 04:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JL1RX7

Measure once weld 4 times?

or keep cutting and welding until you get it right.

hades · 01-30-2014, 06:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GySgtFrank

or keep cutting and welding until you get it right.

Because dumb great bend marine

01-15-2014, 08:41 PM	#182
GySgtFrank Professional Stick Poker Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Stafford, Ks. iTrader: (0) Posts: 1,005 Rep Power: 15	frame & hoops by GySgtFrank, on Flickr I got the other side in and welded up today with a bit of a struggle. Deleted the brake vacuum booster and incorporated the brake master cylinder mounting plate into the plate for the hoop. Far more compact mounting. I'll have to see how well the brakes work without it. This should make the frame rails pretty strong and get rid of any flex. __________________ 1979 SA22C (parts of one anyway) http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...ad.php?t=15585 1975 MG Midget (building) http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...ad.php?t=18681 1988 N/A SE model FC, dead stock and less than 85k on the clock. This one actually runs, so I don't fuck with it.

01-15-2014, 09:08 PM	#183
hades Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Freedom Land iTrader: (0) Posts: 316 Rep Power: 17	Good luck man. That's a lot of work. __________________ This is going to tear

01-15-2014, 09:41 PM	#184
GySgtFrank Professional Stick Poker Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Stafford, Ks. iTrader: (0) Posts: 1,005 Rep Power: 15	Thanks Jeff. It keeps me out of trouble, sort of. __________________ 1979 SA22C (parts of one anyway) http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...ad.php?t=15585 1975 MG Midget (building) http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...ad.php?t=18681 1988 N/A SE model FC, dead stock and less than 85k on the clock. This one actually runs, so I don't fuck with it.

01-16-2014, 06:58 AM	#186
djmtsu My minds tellin' me no... Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Murfreesboro, TN iTrader: (10) Posts: 4,043 Rep Power: 21	Soooooo.....you gonna make DGRR this year? Yikes! __________________ 1976 Mazda Cosmo RX-5 1976 Mazda Cosmo RX-5 2003 Toyota Tundra TRD 2015 Toyota 4Runner SR5

01-19-2014, 07:46 PM	#190
GySgtFrank Professional Stick Poker Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Stafford, Ks. iTrader: (0) Posts: 1,005 Rep Power: 15	Thanks Cheebs. At least it has a nice flat surface to bolt the lower cradle to when I get that finished up. __________________ 1979 SA22C (parts of one anyway) http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...ad.php?t=15585 1975 MG Midget (building) http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...ad.php?t=18681 1988 N/A SE model FC, dead stock and less than 85k on the clock. This one actually runs, so I don't fuck with it.

01-30-2014, 04:45 PM	#192
GySgtFrank Professional Stick Poker Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Stafford, Ks. iTrader: (0) Posts: 1,005 Rep Power: 15	upper mounts, Part III So... I screwed up again. The upper mounts are off by 1/2" on the driver's side and the passenger side was off by 3/4 - 1". I could have sworn I had them right that time, but it was not to be. I did have enough adjustment to get them where they needed to be, but they were at the very end of the adjustment and then some. Not comfortable running it that way so here we go again. Trying to get an accurate measurement with very few squared up surfaces is a pain in the ass. So I need to cut them out one more time. Getting a little smarter this time and building a stand alone box for the mounts. That way I can tack it in place and move the whole thing when I get the alignment equipment back on it. upper A arm mount part 3 by GySgtFrank, on Flickr Also did a little modification while the mounts are out. I didn't care much for the camber adjustment as it tended to move too far while adjusting and it was a pain to bring it back. So I drilled out the front holes and welded 1/2 - 20 nuts on them then put a cap and nut on the other side as well. That way I can run a fine thread 1/2" bolt in each side to push the mounting block back and forth for fine adjustment. It will also help lock it in place more securely. Cross my fingers and hope I get it right this time. __________________ 1979 SA22C (parts of one anyway) http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...ad.php?t=15585 1975 MG Midget (building) http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...ad.php?t=18681 1988 N/A SE model FC, dead stock and less than 85k on the clock. This one actually runs, so I don't fuck with it. Last edited by GySgtFrank; 01-30-2014 at 08:15 PM..

01-30-2014, 04:47 PM	#193
JL1RX7 Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Front Royal, VA iTrader: (1) Posts: 487 Rep Power: 17	Measure once weld 4 times?

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