Tegheim - Home made 4 rotor Wolvo 142 - Page 25

Tegheim · 05-11-2013, 01:31 PM

Have worked alot on these rotors this week. Totally 32 times on 4 rotors in the machine.

Tegheim · 05-30-2013, 09:36 AM

I bought a bunch of new rotors. How do I comfirm that they are 9.7:1-compression?
I have weight them, but all the newer rotors have the same weight. The 28cc in the comb-chamber are kind of tricky to check, or?

Monkman33 · 07-06-2013, 01:28 PM

Your build up is awe-inspiring!

Tegheim · 07-12-2013, 08:07 AM

Today I get to play with the big boys :-)

http://www.build-threads.com/category/build-threads/

theorie · 07-16-2013, 08:20 PM

This is one of the best build threads ever. Thank you for sharing this.

Tegheim · 08-27-2013, 12:52 PM

Havn't done much lately, but have done some with the steering, the wattlink and finally some on the intermediate-plates.

This was a LEGO i designed

And this is how that goes in the car.

Here the intermediate-plate is prepared for the bearing

N.RotaryTech · 08-27-2013, 02:32 PM

Just staring at that front end.
Nice work.

the spyder · 09-25-2013, 09:19 PM

Amazing build. I need access to some of those tools! Just the raw material for the engine would break my budget, haha. Can't wait to hear the startup video.

Rotary Evolution · 09-25-2013, 09:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tegheim

I bought a bunch of new rotors. How do I comfirm that they are 9.7:1-compression?
I have weight them, but all the newer rotors have the same weight. The 28cc in the comb-chamber are kind of tricky to check, or?

take a caliper and a flat piece of metal, mic the metal and zero out the gauge. lay the strip over the pocket and measure the depth of just the pocket and it should be very close to 10.85mm in depth and have a machined relief(the deeper the pocket is, obviously the lower the compression is). this is the measured depth for the 9.7:1 rotors.

turbo rotors also have a T stamp embossed into the oil relief vein area facing the center iron, n/a rotors have no T stamp, just a I and II for front and rear(which accompany the T on turbo rotors).

that said, the quickest and easiest method is just check the oil galley in the rotor for the T stamp(or lack thereof in this case) and make sure the rotor has a machined pocket for the series 5.

if you somehow managed to get renesis rotors they're a little less conspicuous with their scallops and thick side seal lands.

Anoesis · 09-28-2013, 12:20 AM

Neat!

Tegheim · 11-08-2013, 02:53 PM

Have lately spent some time with the porting of the engine. Most in SolidWorks, but also in reality.

Thought I run with V-band instead of what is in the renderings. However, I must turning one half of the V-band myself, and it seems difficult to find the measure of it.
If anyone has seen it, or know how they should look like, I am receptive :-) Happy to metric! The tubes I intend to use is 50x2, ie 46mm internally.

jahjahsqc · 11-08-2013, 05:14 PM

An engineering marvel! very impressive!

Tegheim · 11-09-2013, 12:59 PM

Continued today with the trash-housing.
Did a test sleeve in the cnc-lathe. I am very satisfied with this. Have minor improvements to do with the real ones later.

diabolical1 · 11-09-2013, 05:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jahjahsqc

An engineering marvel! very impressive!

agreed ... and yet still i still find the words so bloody inadequate.

Tegheim · 11-23-2013, 04:17 PM

I have been thinking about the intake. I would want to have tapered runners, but because "someone" decided to lower the entire body over the frame, there isn't much space above the engine.
This means that I have to make a turn on 156.5grd pretty tight around the engine and land on the block. The options are to cast runners in plastic, carbon fiber or aluminum perhaps?

Today I continued to mod my intermediate irons for more bearings.
First I layed a the intermediate and clamped it. Then either front or rear iron onto to indicate the centrum.

Machined two new very tight dowels. As tight as possible.
Even then you can move the plate 0.015mm in both directions. I alinged in the middle of the play.

07-06-2013, 01:28 PM	#363
Monkman33 Still Building my FD Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Pasco, WA Posts: 255 Rep Power: 17	Your build up is awe-inspiring! __________________ Uh.... hi.

07-16-2013, 08:20 PM	#365
theorie VRR PSSH Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Sarasota, FL Posts: 113 Rep Power: 17	This is one of the best build threads ever. Thank you for sharing this. __________________ 1993 SSM, 20B (D449), SINGLE-TURBO, DIY-BUILD IN THE WORKS... \|Build Thread\| 1993 BB, 13B, SINGLE-TURBO, DAILY DRIVER \|Build Thread\| MY FACEBOOK PROFILE // BLACK LABEL ENGINEERING // ADVANCED RACE TECH // IR PERFORMANCE // THE BOOST LAB // [url=rotaryaddicts.com]

08-27-2013, 02:32 PM	#367
N.RotaryTech Home-brew Rotary Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: GooseCreek SC Posts: 552 Rep Power: 18	Just staring at that front end. Nice work. __________________ '89 RX7 GTU, half-Bridge-port S4/S5 NA, E6K, Full RB exhaust, weekend warrior. '83 RX7, The "this might take awhile" project. '87 RX7 GXL, Rest In Pieces. '98 Subaru Impreza Outback-sport, rx7 rescue vehicle, down for repair. '94 Ford Ranger, daily.

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05-11-2013, 01:31 PM	#361
Tegheim Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2011 Posts: 210 Rep Power: 15	Have worked alot on these rotors this week. Totally 32 times on 4 rotors in the machine.

05-30-2013, 09:36 AM	#362
Tegheim Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2011 Posts: 210 Rep Power: 15	I bought a bunch of new rotors. How do I comfirm that they are 9.7:1-compression? I have weight them, but all the newer rotors have the same weight. The 28cc in the comb-chamber are kind of tricky to check, or?

07-12-2013, 08:07 AM	#364
Tegheim Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2011 Posts: 210 Rep Power: 15	Today I get to play with the big boys :-) http://www.build-threads.com/category/build-threads/

08-27-2013, 12:52 PM	#366
Tegheim Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2011 Posts: 210 Rep Power: 15	Havn't done much lately, but have done some with the steering, the wattlink and finally some on the intermediate-plates. This was a LEGO i designed And this is how that goes in the car. Here the intermediate-plate is prepared for the bearing

09-25-2013, 09:19 PM	#368
the spyder Rotary Fan in Training Join Date: Jun 2008 Posts: 38 Rep Power: 0	Amazing build. I need access to some of those tools! Just the raw material for the engine would break my budget, haha. Can't wait to hear the startup video.

09-28-2013, 12:20 AM	#370
Anoesis The Newbie Join Date: Aug 2013 Posts: 28 Rep Power: 0	Neat!

11-08-2013, 02:53 PM	#371
Tegheim Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2011 Posts: 210 Rep Power: 15	Have lately spent some time with the porting of the engine. Most in SolidWorks, but also in reality. Thought I run with V-band instead of what is in the renderings. However, I must turning one half of the V-band myself, and it seems difficult to find the measure of it. If anyone has seen it, or know how they should look like, I am receptive :-) Happy to metric! The tubes I intend to use is 50x2, ie 46mm internally.

11-08-2013, 05:14 PM	#372
jahjahsqc Rotary Fan in Training Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: Winder, Ga Posts: 42 Rep Power: 0	An engineering marvel! very impressive!

11-09-2013, 12:59 PM	#373
Tegheim Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2011 Posts: 210 Rep Power: 15	Continued today with the trash-housing. Did a test sleeve in the cnc-lathe. I am very satisfied with this. Have minor improvements to do with the real ones later.

11-23-2013, 04:17 PM	#375
Tegheim Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2011 Posts: 210 Rep Power: 15	I have been thinking about the intake. I would want to have tapered runners, but because "someone" decided to lower the entire body over the frame, there isn't much space above the engine. This means that I have to make a turn on 156.5grd pretty tight around the engine and land on the block. The options are to cast runners in plastic, carbon fiber or aluminum perhaps? Today I continued to mod my intermediate irons for more bearings. First I layed a the intermediate and clamped it. Then either front or rear iron onto to indicate the centrum. Machined two new very tight dowels. As tight as possible. Even then you can move the plate 0.015mm in both directions. I alinged in the middle of the play.