Remove and Replace Alone. Stupid?

[BLKTOPTRVL]

Some of you may have seen my thread on the other forum...

http://www.rx7club.com/showthread.ph...ghlight=garage

Today, I was setting up the hoist to remove the engine... I started to extend the boom while testing to see if I would have enough clearance.

After extending, the hoist started to become unstable -- that's when I realized I hadn't locked the "legs" in place. If the hoist had gone over, it would have smashed the hood of my BMW. Dodged a bullet there!


But it made me wonder if it is just stupid to try to remove and replace the engine myself?

Has anyone had any real troubles doing this job solo?

[RETed]

I do it all the time, but I have my tricks...
Removing is pretty straight-forward, but reinstalling is a pain in the ass.
This is where an engine leveler is worth it's weight in gold!


-Ted

[BLKTOPTRVL]

Thanks Ted.

After getting it out - which for the most part was a breeze, I can see that getting it back in will be a pain because:

• There are so many accessories and wires that will be in the way
• The transmission will have to be jacked up to align with the engine
• The driver side motor mount will want to interfere

anything else? What are some of your tricks?

Right now, I am wondering if it will be a better idea to remove the transmission, have it rebuilt and then try to install it all as a unit.

If I do this, will the front subframe (vert) need to be removed?

[BLKTOPTRVL]

I put a board over the condensor to protect it while removing the engine. Turns out, it was not needed. However, I am wondering if it would have been needed had I removed the engine with the transmission attached?

[BLKTOPTRVL]

General Pics...

Part of the reason I removed the engine was because the cluth didn't feel right. Looking at it, it looks OK. I wonder if the fork could be bent after all these years? I think I will pull it, clean it, and take it to a store where I can look at another to see if it is the same shape.

[BLKTOPTRVL]

Before starting the disassembly, I think I will go get the parts washer and clean and store all the accessories.

In this whole removal, I have been surprised that only one bolt/nut has given me any trouble. And that is the one on the lower heatsheild. The exhaust installer weld/tacked the heatsheild directly to the manifold for some reason.

[BLKTOPTRVL]

Can't wait to be back on the road.

[FirstRotaryExp]

Replacing an engine can be done solo, even without all the right equipment. My last engine change to my 88 na I had one person help with removal, only because I was pulling the transmission with it at the same time, which I will never do again due to some interesting complications. But putting the engine back in I did entirely solo, even reinstalled the transmission solo, a pain to do while on your back but it can be done. My advice to doing it solo is to take your time and keep everything out of the way when putting it back in, the engine likes to tilt to the drivers side, which makes things easy if you have no PS or AC, just line the mount up to the hole and put it in, then carefully lower the engine while sliding the passenger side mount into the "J" shaped hole. (note* cant remember if the J hole was on drivers or passengers, but I do know the engine tilted to the side that didnt have said hole.)

I also had my radiator and condensor out of the car for the pull and install soo it gave me a bit more clearance.

[RETed]

Originally Posted by BLKTOPTRVL

• There are so many accessories and wires that will be in the way
• The transmission will have to be jacked up to align with the engine
• The driver side motor mount will want to interfere

anything else? What are some of your tricks?

Right now, I am wondering if it will be a better idea to remove the transmission, have it rebuilt and then try to install it all as a unit.

I'm actually one those few that prefer it to do it sans trans.
I know a lot of people prefer it with the trans, but to me, the added weight just makes it that much harder to maneuver.
This is where the engine tilter is worth buying...
Yes, jacking the transmission up does help.
Removing as much of the auxiliaries helps here - I leave the engine mounts / AC / PS / manifolds off until after the engine is in place.

Once the engine is aligned with the trans input shaft, I start to secure all the trans bolts.
If you're lucky, the trans slips all the way in...
I usually start with the long starter bolt (and nut), cause this is usually the easiest to align the engine to the trans "rotation wise".
Also, the top most bolt is supposed to be threaded from the engine side first, and the nut is used to secure the trans - this bolt also helps align the engine to the trans, but most of the time it's removed and put in backwards.
Yes, you need access from underneath the vehicle to make this easier.
You might think you look stupid going from underneath the car to under the hood to back again every few seconds, but to me it's the quickest way to do this by yourself.
The key here is to tighten all the bolts at the same time to keep the space between the engine and trans as even as possible.

The last 1/4" of space is the hardest to crank down.
There are two reasons:
1) There are two position dowels on the engine, and these needs to be aligned.
2) The trans input shaft splines need to align with the splines on the clutch disc.
If you're having trouble getting the engine to mate all the way, back off the bolts a little and hand-crank the engine over back-n-forth (19mm bolt on the eccentric shaft or use the alternator nut if pulleys and belts are installed) or the driveshaft (if you're underneath and all wheels are up in the air and transmission is in gear).
This will allow the splines to all line up.

Once you get the engine and trans mated, then engine mounts can go in...


-Ted

[DriftingFC]

I installed my engine in a gravel driveway alone. It was A PITA, but I got it done with ALOT of bullwork, and using me brain. You can do it NICKI!!!!

[BLKTOPTRVL]

Originally Posted by RETed

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Once you get the engine and trans mated, then engine mounts can go in...


-Ted

Ted,

Are you saying that you leave BOTH mounts off the engine until it is in place and mated to the trans?

I would think that getting the driver side (the one not bolted to the pan) into place and bolted on would be hard if it is not already secured to the engine?