Recurring clutch issues?

[Raksj04]

I been having issues with throwout bearing going out after a few thousand miles, I assume that it is the throwout bearing by the noise it is making. I have had the issue of soft pedal, I have replaced all the hydraulic parts including the lines/hose. I had a weird feeling in the clutch pedal before I had the following issue, which a friend said maybe a throwout bearing issue. A week or so ago my clutch wouldn't disengage the engine from the trans. This happend slowing over about an hour of stop and go city traffic. It was also really hot. It started to very slightly buck when the car was stop and the clutch pedal to the floor, I could feel it sligthly trying to move, to being unable to shift the car into 1st from netural with the pedal to the floor. I was able to get the car drivable after I adjusted the Pedal rod out. This has happend to me 3 times in the last 6 months. and once before with a different trans and motor and hydraulic parts. I am at a loss. I also hate my puck clutch setup. I am thinking about replacing it was a nice clutch kit but I dont want to have to drop the trans again any time soon. any help would be great thanks.

[RETed]

Pilot bearing.

Else, in some cases the clutch disc is falling apart.


-Ted

[Raksj04]

I have replaced the pilot bearing each time, and the clutch only has about 2000 or so miles on it. It will make more noise in nertual with the pedal released then with the pedal depressed

[RETed]

Replacing the pilot bearing is not an automatic eliminator.
In fact, just doing a clutch job which entails removing the transmission (i.e. input shaft) from the engine will actually increase the chances the pilot bearing gets f*cked.
You can kill a brand new pilot bearing by man-handling the reinstall of the transmission back into the engine very easily.
I've done it.

Signs of a failing pilot bearing:
* noisier with the foot off the clutch pedal - i.e. clutch pedal released
* With clutch pedal in (and all brakes off), car will stutter and creep forward, even though it's not supposed to.
* Shifting into any gear gets difficult; if you can shift into any gear with the engine off, then that eliminates a bad trans and makes it almost 100% it's the pilot bearing

You have basically described all 3 of the above.
This is why I suspect the pilot bearing.

The throw-out or release bearing really only comes into play when you step on the clutch pedal:
* noisier with the foot ON the clutch pedal


-Ted

[Raksj04]

If it is the pilot bearing why do I keep having issues with them? this is the 3rd one.

[EJayCe996]

Originally Posted by Raksj04

If it is the pilot bearing why do I keep having issues with them? this is the 3rd one.

Like Ted already said, you're probably destroying them mating the trans back to the engine.

[Raksj04]

How offend do they get trashed when you pull the trans out?

[RETed]

The problem is not on the separation.
The problen is when you try and stick the transmission back into the engine.
You need to be very careful when you slide the transmission input shaft into the pilot bearing / rear eccentric shaft hole.
If you don't align the two and try and force things to go in, you're most likely to damage one or more of the delicate needle bearings in the pilot bearing itself.
Once you damage one of these needle bearings, they will break and pop out.
Once that happens, the little needle bearing pieces will cause the transmission input shaft to intermittently sieze inside the rear eccentric shaft hole.
This does two things:
1) This causes the vehicle to creep even though your foot is down on the clutch pedal, because the engine and the rest of the drivetrain are intermittently sized together, and
2) This causes problems trying to shift gears, as the engine and rest of the drivetrain cannot be properly disengaged so that the vehicle speed is not matched with the engine speed (via normal use of the transmission synchronizers).

This problem and it's headaches will get worse and worse until all of a sudden, the problem will disappear like magic.
This is why all of the needle bearings have broken and fallen out and cannot interfere as described above.


-Ted

[RETed]

(I've edited one of my above replies.)

* With clutch pedal in and transmission in gear, the car will try and creep forward.

* With transmission shifted into neutral (i.e. out of gear) - it doesn't matter if you're on or off the clutch pedal - the engine idle will be more erratic than normal (dipping maybe 50 - 100RPM's here and there), due to the needle bearing pieces siezing intermittently.


-Ted

[Raksj04]

are you suppost to grease the pilot bearing or something, or did I not put in on far enough in to the E-shaft?

[RETed]

Mazda recommends to grease the pilot bearing and contact surfaces on the transmission input shaft.

As long as the pilot bearing is not sticking out, it should be okay.
There is a corresponding "grease seal" that is supposed to be used.


-Ted

[Sephitrask]

Good advice here Rick. Did you grease the bearing when it went in? If not go ahead and order another, and since my shoulder isn't broke anymore I can come over and help out this time

[Raksj04]

Originally Posted by RETed

Mazda recommends to grease the pilot bearing and contact surfaces on the transmission input shaft.

As long as the pilot bearing is not sticking out, it should be okay.
There is a corresponding "grease seal" that is supposed to be used.


-Ted

Stike 2 out of 3. I have never used gease, and i didn't know about the seal. I feel stupid as hell. I think I am going to start buliding my FSM binder.

Originally Posted by Sephitrask

Good advice here Rick. Did you grease the bearing when it went in? If not go ahead and order another, and since my shoulder isn't broke anymore I can come over and help out this time

I am going to order a new clutch kit. I think a act or something. I am not a fan of the puck style clutch for a DD. This will be done on the lift at the hobby shop.