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RX-7 2nd Gen Specific (1986-92) RX-7 1986-92 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections. |
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04-10-2008, 12:22 AM | #2 | |
rotors excite me
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I would leave it there if I were you, but I think some people do run an electric fan and remove the shroud. Personally, I will not remove it unless some other modification requires it.
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He isn't a killer. He just wins -- thoroughly. '87 TII 240+ rwhp on my DIY streetport, ~13psi on stock turbo, Racing Beat REVTII exhaust rTek 2.1 awaits a tune Quote:
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04-10-2008, 12:50 PM | #4 |
Pirate
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The clutch fan is better, simpler, and keeps the car plenty cool...
Really, the only reason to go with an electric rad is if the stock clutch fan setup breaks. (ie: the "clutch" in the fan wears out.)
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Rotaries:They are NOT that complicated! |
04-10-2008, 01:20 PM | #5 | |
Mod With The Least :P
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^Werd, I just put a Taurus e-fan on my Turbo FB and I am very disappointed with the performance. Its been on there 2-days and I have already pulled it and put the clutch fan back on. Even if it breaks, I would just get another stocker.
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04-10-2008, 03:25 PM | #6 |
2nd Generation Freak
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Why is a clutch fan better? If you look at new cars more have electric fans.
Let's weigh the pro's and con's Electric: Pro's - they take up less room - they flow alot of air - even at higher speeds they pull air - you can wire them in multiple ways ( toggle switch, thermoswitch, or an adjustable thermostatic relay - they remove the load on the water pump, less work for the motor - you can leave them on to cool the motor after a hard run Con's - if not shrouded they COULD be inefficient - they draw between 20 and 30 amps, putting more load on the alternator - they are slightly more complex to install Clutch: Pro's - easy to replace/install - flow very well at idle and slow speeds Con's - put drag on the motor - when they fail they can create more problems than just overheating - don't pull SH*T for air after a certain rpm - motor has to be running for it to work That is all I could think of, if anyone can add to this please do so. That being said I am currently running 2 12" aftermarket e-fans, unshrouded, on a key-on powered toggle switch. I haven't had any overheating issues. I also have had them controlled by an adjustable thermostatic relay that would keep the fans on till the motor dropped to a cretain temp, but it ended up getting fried by a short (and I haven't replaced it). They have been on my car for 2 years and I have only overheated twice (cause I was low on coolant from leaks). O don't have a bigger alternator (stock s4) and I am using a optima yellow top battery. Not once have I been able to notice a difference in the load on the alternator. Thanks for letting me rant.
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'87 TII- full emissions removal, a/c removed, FPD removed, dual 12" e-fans, Rotary Performance FCD, ACT unsprung 6 puck w/ Xtreme PP, custom open 2.5 inch exhaust, custom clutch pivot ball, K&N cone filter, TB mod, RB downpipe, motor blown 8/7/09 '94 Mazda B4000- POS beater truck, stock "The easiest way to fail is to never try." - Me |
04-10-2008, 05:20 PM | #7 |
My minds tellin' me no...
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OK guys, this has been debated THOROUGHLY.
There is nothing wrong with the stock fan clutch. There is nothing wrong with the Taurus fan. I think you got a bunk fan Nathanial. That being said, you should not remove your shroud for no reason. Other than the fact that it helps direct the flow of air, it also is a safety device. You don't want to cut your fingers off when working on the engine while running.
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1976 Mazda Cosmo RX-5 1976 Mazda Cosmo RX-5 2003 Toyota Tundra TRD 2015 Toyota 4Runner SR5 |
04-10-2008, 07:49 PM | #8 | |
Mod With The Least :P
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^Actually, I think my alternator was on the fritz and the draw finished it off. Had it tested today and the diode was bad. Its been rebuilt, but went back to stock fan.
BTW, I am running a 23 year old radiator designed for a N/A w/ a turbo, therefore any loss of airflow is critical in my case.
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04-11-2008, 04:27 PM | #9 | |
FUCK the fucking fuckers
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ok I like everyone's posts for different reasons.
Here is my take on it: If your stock fan is working properly then leave it alone. You need the shroud in order to maximize the air-flow through the radiator (assuming you still have the stock underbelly tray and ducting in front of the radiator). If you remove the stock shroud you will overheat the car when it's idling or cruising at low speeds ( stop and go traffic) since the shroud can't help the fan pull all the air out. If you know your stocker is toast then you can go with an Efan (cheaper than OEM replacement) but you should still have a shroud. You need to make sure the new Efan pulls at least 2100cfm. An improperly installed fan (running all the time) WILL kill your alternator so look into a good setup ( i have a 35A breaker, relay and thermosensor) to ensure you aren't drawing too much power at fan startup (fans tend to "spike" and draw much more amperage when they first kick in).
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Last edited by Phoenix7; 04-11-2008 at 04:31 PM.. |
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04-11-2008, 05:42 PM | #10 |
Rotary Fanatic
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the original question is about the shroud- and yes you should definately have it on. the car will run very hot at idle and low speeds. autocrossing would be the easiest way to overheat it. without the shroud, the fan is pulling air from wherever (most likely under the car), bypassing the radiator.
its unforunate theyre such a bitch to put back on, but you def need it if you keep the stock fan. i couldnt get mine back on, so i ran without, and my car got hot as hell after 1 autox run.
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04-11-2008, 09:28 PM | #11 |
Pirate
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Hard as hell to put back on??? ARE you serious? you DO know that you need to remove the fan to take it off/put it on, dont you?
Mine was SOOOO easy, first time doing it too!
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Rotaries:They are NOT that complicated! |