Stationary Gear Bearings...replace both?

JustJeff · 03-08-2011, 05:14 PM

Wanting opinions on what to do with these bearings. IIRC, but it was a while ago, I got advice that one of the bearings is useable because the wear isn't sharp.

I had first thought I'd replace both bearings. Then got some advice that one of them is useable. I'm wondering if it's safer to keep a worn bearing rather than replace. Or should I simply replace both while doing it, seeing how the break in time is going to increase anyway.

I'm going to order all my rebuild parts in the next few days and want to make sure I get all that I need.

N.RotaryTech · 03-08-2011, 05:23 PM

My rule is "if you see copper color, that's bad"

IMO, That one in the top picture Needs to be replaced.
You could probably get away with the one in the lower picture, but since the other one needs to be replaced, just replace them both.

FC Zach · 03-08-2011, 07:08 PM

And you can't go wrong with the RX8 stationary gears either. They're pretty affordable and ready to run since the bearings are already installed.

Ender · 03-08-2011, 08:18 PM

'usable' is subjective, and if you go by the FSM for wear specs you will most likely be disappointed. don't skip out on your bearings, IIRC they're not terribly expensive to do anyway. make sure if you're not doing them yourself though you have a machinist do it. I took mine to an auto shop and they fucked up my bearings that I didn't actually need to replace, so then I had to replace them. had a machinist do it, he found a piece of drive shaft that fit perfect and he got the job done beautifully despite the kludge lol

Prodigy · 03-09-2011, 12:10 AM

Stictly a consult the FSM for dimensions specs... And heck to see if out of spec (For FD anyways) I remember reading in the FSM that They recommend keeping a bearing showing copper, as long as the dimensions of it are still within spec...

That being said... It's not extremely difficult to change them, and they run for a decent price, only other thing you need to remember is that on break in , you need to take about twice as long (something else I remember reading in the FSM)

Cheers..

J.

***TitaniumTT*** · 03-10-2011, 08:11 PM

Zach is right, replace them both with RX8 bearings, and if your e-shaft is slightly close to being out of spec, grab the renni ehaft as well.

03-08-2011, 05:14 PM	#1
JustJeff RCC Contributor Join Date: Mar 2008 iTrader: (1) Posts: 505 Rep Power: 17	Stationary Gear Bearings...replace both? Wanting opinions on what to do with these bearings. IIRC, but it was a while ago, I got advice that one of the bearings is useable because the wear isn't sharp. I had first thought I'd replace both bearings. Then got some advice that one of them is useable. I'm wondering if it's safer to keep a worn bearing rather than replace. Or should I simply replace both while doing it, seeing how the break in time is going to increase anyway. I'm going to order all my rebuild parts in the next few days and want to make sure I get all that I need.

03-08-2011, 05:23 PM	#2
N.RotaryTech Home-brew Rotary Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: GooseCreek SC iTrader: (0) Posts: 552 Rep Power: 17	My rule is "if you see copper color, that's bad" IMO, That one in the top picture Needs to be replaced. You could probably get away with the one in the lower picture, but since the other one needs to be replaced, just replace them both. __________________ '89 RX7 GTU, half-Bridge-port S4/S5 NA, E6K, Full RB exhaust, weekend warrior. '83 RX7, The "this might take awhile" project. '87 RX7 GXL, Rest In Pieces. '98 Subaru Impreza Outback-sport, rx7 rescue vehicle, down for repair. '94 Ford Ranger, daily.

03-08-2011, 07:08 PM	#3
FC Zach RCC Loves Me Not You Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Eagleville, TN iTrader: (2) Posts: 2,267 Rep Power: 19	And you can't go wrong with the RX8 stationary gears either. They're pretty affordable and ready to run since the bearings are already installed. __________________ 1993 Yamaha GTS1000 1992 Celica Turbo AllTrac 1987 RX7 Sport 1979 Yamaha G1, KM24 powered 1975 Dolmar KMS4

03-10-2011, 08:11 PM	#6
*TitaniumTT* Test Whore - Admin Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Right Behind you son iTrader: (4) Posts: 4,581 Rep Power: 10	Zach is right, replace them both with RX8 bearings, and if your e-shaft is slightly close to being out of spec, grab the renni ehaft as well. __________________ -The Angry Stig- DGRR 2009, 2011, 2012 & 2013 - Best FC DEALS GAP!! WOOHOOOO!!!!! 2015 Audi S4 - Samantha - Zero Brap S4 2004 RX8 - Jocelyn - 196rwhp, 19mpg fuel to noise converter 2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport - Wifey mobile - Now with 2.5" OME lift and 30" BFG AT KO's! So it begins 1998 Jeep Cherokee - 5 spd, 4" lift, 33" BFG's - Rotary Tow Vehicle 1988 'Vert - In progress 1988 FC Coupe - Gretchen -The attention whore BEAST! I'm a sick individual, what's wrong with you? I'm pure Evil I'm still insane, in the best possible way. I think Brian's idea of romance is using lube. Your rage caused the meteor strike in Russia. The Antichrist would be proud of his minion. You win with your thread. Most everything It's a truck with a steel gate on the back. Just a statement of fact Motec M820, AIM dash, ported 13B-RE Cosmo, 6-spd trans, 4.3 Torsen, custom twin wg fully divided mani, Custom 4" split into 2x 3" exhaust, Custom HMIC, Custom custom custom custom I like to welder stuff.... No Bolt-ons allowed. Dyno'ed @ Speed1 Tuned by me - 405rwhp on WG.... WM50 cuming soon. *-Angry Motherfcker Mode ENGAGED-**

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