Go Back   Rotary Car Club > Tech Discussion > Tires,Wheels,Suspension,Brakes

Tires,Wheels,Suspension,Brakes Info about Tires, Wheels, Suspensions, Brakes, etc.

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 07-10-2010, 11:15 PM   #1
Whizbang
Respecognize!
 
Whizbang's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Δx = ħ/2Δp
iTrader: (5)
Posts: 3,190
Rep Power: 20
Whizbang will become famous soon enough
Default Boiled the brakes, fronts faded bad (not rx7)

so i acquired a 1980 toyota celica that i am using as my rallycross car and eventually my rally car while i build the rx7 (so i can learn on this slow car and build the rx7 correctly).

anyway, been doing some seat time in this car and found the brakes to boil pretty bad. Didnt think you could actually HEAR it boil either...

but i digress, the fronts faded bad, the rears not as much and it became rather unstable if you had to use the brakes for any reason.

So what is a good cure for this? Im going to flush the brakes and replace with the best fluid i can find. But is this enough? Or should i look to whats available for larger brakes? Im sure some other toyota model has something a tad larger.






__________________
For current updates and event coverage check out
Follow on Twitter! @WhizbangRally
Whizbang Rally's Webpage | Facebook
Whizbang is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-11-2010, 03:26 AM   #2
Kentetsu
RCC Contributor
 
Kentetsu's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Grand Rapids, Michigan
iTrader: (1)
Posts: 530
Rep Power: 17
Kentetsu is on a distinguished road
Default

Duct some air to those badboys and let 'em breathe man!

Maybe some decent pads too. But if that doesn't do it, you'll probably have to go with larger discs to help dissipate the heat.

Any chance that the original fluid was in shitty condition? Maybe water contaminated?





.
__________________
"Learn from the past, or it will become your future...."

'85 GS 12a + LSD/Sterling carb/Respeed coilovers/Respeed front swaybar/Respeed adj. rear spring perches/Illuminas/Bilsteins on rear

AutoX vids @ http://www.youtube.com/user/Kentetsu1
Kentetsu is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-11-2010, 05:08 AM   #3
RETed
RCC Addict
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Honolulu, Hawaii USA
iTrader: (1)
Posts: 1,813
Rep Power: 18
RETed will become famous soon enough
Default

Cheapest and easiest "fix" would be to run better brake fluid...

If it's not enough, then go with ducting...

Almost anything else is EXPENSIVE.


-Ted
__________________
reted_2000@yahoo.com
Technical Advisor
FC3S Pro
http://fc3spro.com/



Quote:
Originally Posted by TitaniumTT View Post
because you're only as good as your backup
RETed is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-11-2010, 12:24 PM   #4
Whizbang
Respecognize!
 
Whizbang's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Δx = ħ/2Δp
iTrader: (5)
Posts: 3,190
Rep Power: 20
Whizbang will become famous soon enough
Default

im going to flush and replace the brake fluid and see how that pans out.
__________________
For current updates and event coverage check out
Follow on Twitter! @WhizbangRally
Whizbang Rally's Webpage | Facebook
Whizbang is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-11-2010, 01:24 PM   #5
Tinman
Rotary Fan in Training
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Central Ohio
iTrader: (0)
Posts: 36
Rep Power: 0
Tinman is on a distinguished road
Default

Try the simple stuff first. Fresh fluid is a must but also look to see if the caliper slides are working smoothly and not binding in anyway that could cause the pads to drag after the pedal is released. Make sure the lines and hoses are in good condition and not kinked or collapsed. I have seen situations where the pressure in the caliper could not be released due to a faulty line or collapsed hose causing severe drag. A maladjusted master cylinder pushrod can cause the same problem.

If everything in the hydraulic system is in perfect working condition the best thing to do to reduce heat is pad choice and or driving style.
Tinman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-11-2010, 10:41 PM   #6
josh18_2k
Rotary Fanatic
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Gresham, OR
iTrader: (0)
Posts: 473
Rep Power: 17
josh18_2k is on a distinguished road
Default

if the pedal went to the floor, its the fluid.
if the pedal stayed hard(ish), but the car wasnt slowing down, thats the pads.
__________________
josh18_2k is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-11-2010, 11:16 PM   #7
Whizbang
Respecognize!
 
Whizbang's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Δx = ħ/2Δp
iTrader: (5)
Posts: 3,190
Rep Power: 20
Whizbang will become famous soon enough
Default

the pedal stayed pretty decent but the fluid was certainly boiling. I heard it and saw it and it was damn hot coming out of the top of the master cylinder. Im going to flush the fluid and inspect the brakes a bit.
__________________
For current updates and event coverage check out
Follow on Twitter! @WhizbangRally
Whizbang Rally's Webpage | Facebook
Whizbang is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-12-2010, 10:05 AM   #8
Kentetsu
RCC Contributor
 
Kentetsu's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Grand Rapids, Michigan
iTrader: (1)
Posts: 530
Rep Power: 17
Kentetsu is on a distinguished road
Default

You might also (not sure) want to take a look at your braking method.

Good firm braking applied when needed = cooler rotors
Less pressure applied for longer periods = overheated rotors
Kentetsu is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 04:47 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Hosted by www.GotPlacement.com
Ad Management by RedTyger