Diary of a Madman; TitaniumTT's see you @ DGRRXI RE-REbuild

helghast7 · 02-10-2010, 02:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by frank

Show us Your BEST Quote from Any reputable Body shop or Airbrush Artist, & We’ll BEAT IT, Guaranteed ! - www.LionzDenAuto.com

you better be careful throwing statements like that around, theres alot of people on here, like me, that will call you out on that end end up getting a whole car painted for 100 bucks from you

***TitaniumTT*** · 02-10-2010, 08:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by frank

Show us Your BEST Quote from Any reputable Body shop or Airbrush Artist, & We’ll BEAT IT, Guaranteed ! - www.LionzDenAuto.com

When it comes to craftsmanship, you get what you pay for. I'm not cheap, you are..... where do we go from here?

Abdul needs some body work before Deals right?

FC3S Murray · 02-10-2010, 12:43 PM

Holy shit Brian you have been busy!!!

You make me nervous...I have always used the pinch welds for jacking points....I am a bad man. I went and looked at my undercarriage and they are clean as a wistle(Cali car and never driven in bad weather, there or here in Montana. Regardless I have moved my jack stands to where they belong.

How difficult is the installation of that Traction Control system? Just curious to how you would set-up that monitoring system.

***TitaniumTT*** · 02-10-2010, 02:40 PM

I'm going with the MoTeC traction control Multiplexer, the TCMux. With the M"hundred series" you can wire the signals directly to the ECU IFF they are hall effect signals. If they're a mag signal like the stock ABS system is, they need to be converted to a Hall Effect signal. MoTeC has the converters, one per axle. In my case though, I have 4 digital inputs, right now one is wheel speed off the driveshaft, one is low sump, and the other low 2-stroke. Becuase I don't want to give up the low level warnings (I could with a simple LED light, but want them to trigger an RPM limit if they do go off) I needed the TCMux. It takes all the signals and converts them to a coded signal that the ECU sees. From that it gets wheel speed, both driven and rolling, calculates slip, and activates or doesn't activate the traction control.

The Traction Control itself can be setup anyway you want it to. Ignition retard, fuel cut, hard cut, boost dump etc etc. In our case, can't really use ignition retard becuase it'll melt turbo's, fuel cut is a bad idea, hard cut can get dangerous so I'll be using the boost dump. I suspect that the boost dump won't do everthing that I want it to. So I may be changing to a DBW which is definately the way to go. The ECU senses the slip and backs the throttle off for you. Can't get much better than that.

The problem that us rotary guys have is the way the earlier MOP's work, it's a feedback system (which is better than the renni's non-feedback system) and the ECU just doesn't have the outputs to run two basic DBW systems. So if I do go the DBW route, I may need to get MoTeC's DBW-4 which is a CAN commincation setup, or ditch my MOP and run a DBW setup and save whatever the DBW-4 expense is. But this is next winter stuff

I will tell you now though that the FD will be a DBW system, and I won't be running the OMP on that motor, so I'll probably ditch the OMP on the FC as well.

As long as you're using the factory jack on the pinch welds you're good to go. The factory jack doesn't put any weight on the seems, it uses the seems to keep it from slipping off. It's when shops use them for lifts, and home guys use their floor jacks that you run into problems like the disaster that I'm dealing with. I'm actually heading outside shortly to get back at the FC. Undercarriage is completely clean so it's time to flip her over and strip all the harnesses out, then wash the underside..... and the floors after I'm done

64 days....... wow.... need to stay busy

***TitaniumTT*** · 02-10-2010, 11:35 PM

Got a bunch more done tonight and we've turned the corner. Everything has been stripped and cleaned. I'm hoping that the repairs will be done by the end of the weekend and the herculiner will be on too. I think that's a little ambitious but we'll see.

So the FC is shiny side up again but man is she looking bare. The only things left on the car are the woper motor, the MoTeC and the fuel filter

Force13b · 02-11-2010, 12:46 AM

Your car looks as good as always Brian, can't wait to see the fabrications you come up with for the FD.

WE3RX7 · 02-11-2010, 08:21 AM

Are you taking the cage out to spray the LS?

***TitaniumTT*** · 02-11-2010, 12:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Force13b

Your car looks as good as always Brian, can't wait to see the fabrications you come up with for the FD.

Thanks Tyler, as soon as the FC is done we're rolling the FD in for the same treatment as the FC is getting now. I really just want her clean and one color, then I'll start all the fab work and welding, then reprime, undercoating, lizard skin, etc etc. I'd LOVE to have her done in a year..... we'll see.

Quote:

Originally Posted by WE3RX7

Are you taking the cage out to spray the LS?

Definately, gotta take the base plates off for the herculiner and I'm always one to remove a part rather than tape it off. I've found it takes about the same time but by taking it off you remove the chance of overspray and get better coverage..... kind of a no brainer in my eyes.

BigIslandSevens · 02-11-2010, 02:06 PM

Hey Brian,

Thanks for the offer of pics and measurements on the rotisiree. Whenever you get a chance to do that it would be great. No rush, you have enough on your hands.

I think it will be a good height for all three gens. Both the FB and FD bodies appear to be shorter from rockers to roof visually than the FC. I can always modify the original design.

Dave

WE3RX7 · 02-11-2010, 03:40 PM

Does Kirky have a part # on that bolt in cage for the FC or was it simply made to order? I'm still probably going the autopower 6 point mainly so I can add door bars to fulfill the requirement, but I love the connection in the rear and the x brace.... the added trans tunnel bar is a good idea too....

helghast7 · 02-11-2010, 11:28 PM

engines going back in this weekend! wish me luck lol

***TitaniumTT*** · 02-12-2010, 09:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BigIslandSevens

Hey Brian,

Thanks for the offer of pics and measurements on the rotisiree. Whenever you get a chance to do that it would be great. No rush, you have enough on your hands.

I think it will be a good height for all three gens. Both the FB and FD bodies appear to be shorter from rockers to roof visually than the FC. I can always modify the original design.

Dave

No worries Dave, glad to help out. I was actually planning on grabbing them today but I got work from my buddy that we're heading up to ME to pick up his Landi...... WOOT!!!! Another 14 hr road trip and one mkore project!!!! I'm up to 5!
My FC, FD, boat,
Alex's FC
Buddies boat
and now the Landi will be here for a few tweaks before my buddy head off to live outt that thing for a month.... sweet! This is the motivation I needed to start cranking into thoat 36hr work days

Quote:

Originally Posted by WE3RX7

Does Kirky have a part # on that bolt in cage for the FC or was it simply made to order? I'm still probably going the autopower 6 point mainly so I can add door bars to fulfill the requirement, but I love the connection in the rear and the x brace.... the added trans tunnel bar is a good idea too....

Kirk had a few part numbers and options. When I spoke with them they didn't have something perfect for me. I had them build me their bolt in hoop as a weld in piece, then I bought their weld in full cage kit (yeah I know but I was hoping) When I got it I installed the hoop and welded the x-bars up in a weld in style, but made them bolt in, then I added the trans braces myself... had to order some extra material for them. The cage put the front kickers WAY to close to my head, found this out after I tacked it in so I just cut them out. The dash brace actually turned into my front bumper support and the door bars are being used for Alex's front bumper support. Kirk is great, they'll work with you.

***TitaniumTT*** · 02-12-2010, 09:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by helghast7

engines going back in this weekend! wish me luck lol

Good luck man! Gimme a shout if you've got any questions.

WE3RX7 · 02-12-2010, 09:58 AM

Ah - good to know on the cage. I knew it looked custom but the bolted in factor was throwing me...

helghast7 · 02-12-2010, 06:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TitaniumTT

Good luck man! Gimme a shout if you've got any questions.

thanks Brian

hopefully things should go smoothly...but im sure your going to end up getting a call anyways lol

02-10-2010, 12:43 PM	#93
FC3S Murray frustrated! Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Montana iTrader: (3) Posts: 611 Rep Power: 16	Holy shit Brian you have been busy!!! You make me nervous...I have always used the pinch welds for jacking points....I am a bad man. I went and looked at my undercarriage and they are clean as a wistle(Cali car and never driven in bad weather, there or here in Montana. Regardless I have moved my jack stands to where they belong. How difficult is the installation of that Traction Control system? Just curious to how you would set-up that monitoring system. __________________ Same pig, new soul

02-10-2010, 02:40 PM	#94
*TitaniumTT* Test Whore - Admin Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Right Behind you son iTrader: (4) Posts: 4,581 Rep Power: 10	I'm going with the MoTeC traction control Multiplexer, the TCMux. With the M"hundred series" you can wire the signals directly to the ECU IFF they are hall effect signals. If they're a mag signal like the stock ABS system is, they need to be converted to a Hall Effect signal. MoTeC has the converters, one per axle. In my case though, I have 4 digital inputs, right now one is wheel speed off the driveshaft, one is low sump, and the other low 2-stroke. Becuase I don't want to give up the low level warnings (I could with a simple LED light, but want them to trigger an RPM limit if they do go off) I needed the TCMux. It takes all the signals and converts them to a coded signal that the ECU sees. From that it gets wheel speed, both driven and rolling, calculates slip, and activates or doesn't activate the traction control. The Traction Control itself can be setup anyway you want it to. Ignition retard, fuel cut, hard cut, boost dump etc etc. In our case, can't really use ignition retard becuase it'll melt turbo's, fuel cut is a bad idea, hard cut can get dangerous so I'll be using the boost dump. I suspect that the boost dump won't do everthing that I want it to. So I may be changing to a DBW which is definately the way to go. The ECU senses the slip and backs the throttle off for you. Can't get much better than that. The problem that us rotary guys have is the way the earlier MOP's work, it's a feedback system (which is better than the renni's non-feedback system) and the ECU just doesn't have the outputs to run two basic DBW systems. So if I do go the DBW route, I may need to get MoTeC's DBW-4 which is a CAN commincation setup, or ditch my MOP and run a DBW setup and save whatever the DBW-4 expense is. But this is next winter stuff I will tell you now though that the FD will be a DBW system, and I won't be running the OMP on that motor, so I'll probably ditch the OMP on the FC as well. As long as you're using the factory jack on the pinch welds you're good to go. The factory jack doesn't put any weight on the seems, it uses the seems to keep it from slipping off. It's when shops use them for lifts, and home guys use their floor jacks that you run into problems like the disaster that I'm dealing with. I'm actually heading outside shortly to get back at the FC. Undercarriage is completely clean so it's time to flip her over and strip all the harnesses out, then wash the underside..... and the floors after I'm done 64 days....... wow.... need to stay busy __________________ -The Angry Stig- DGRR 2009, 2011, 2012 & 2013 - Best FC DEALS GAP!! WOOHOOOO!!!!! 2015 Audi S4 - Samantha - Zero Brap S4 2004 RX8 - Jocelyn - 196rwhp, 19mpg fuel to noise converter 2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport - Wifey mobile - Now with 2.5" OME lift and 30" BFG AT KO's! So it begins 1998 Jeep Cherokee - 5 spd, 4" lift, 33" BFG's - Rotary Tow Vehicle 1988 'Vert - In progress 1988 FC Coupe - Gretchen -The attention whore BEAST! I'm a sick individual, what's wrong with you? I'm pure Evil I'm still insane, in the best possible way. I think Brian's idea of romance is using lube. Your rage caused the meteor strike in Russia. The Antichrist would be proud of his minion. You win with your thread. Most everything It's a truck with a steel gate on the back. Just a statement of fact Motec M820, AIM dash, ported 13B-RE Cosmo, 6-spd trans, 4.3 Torsen, custom twin wg fully divided mani, Custom 4" split into 2x 3" exhaust, Custom HMIC, Custom custom custom custom I like to welder stuff.... No Bolt-ons allowed. Dyno'ed @ Speed1 Tuned by me - 405rwhp on WG.... WM50 cuming soon. *-Angry Motherfcker Mode ENGAGED-** Last edited by TitaniumTT; 02-10-2010 at 02:43 PM..

02-11-2010, 11:28 PM	#101
helghast7 F yo couch! Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Belleville, NJ iTrader: (0) Posts: 223 Rep Power: 15	engines going back in this weekend! wish me luck lol __________________ 87' n/a FC 94' FD-360whp, 300lbs-tq at 14psi on twins 92' ZZR-600 sold 07' CBR600RR more to come

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02-11-2010, 12:46 AM	#96
Force13b cxxxx\|::::::::::::> Join Date: Nov 2009 iTrader: (1) Posts: 315 Rep Power: 16	Your car looks as good as always Brian, can't wait to see the fabrications you come up with for the FD.

02-11-2010, 08:21 AM	#97
WE3RX7 RCC Addict Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: VA iTrader: (1) Posts: 1,812 Rep Power: 18	Are you taking the cage out to spray the LS?

02-11-2010, 02:06 PM	#99
BigIslandSevens Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Denver, NC iTrader: (0) Posts: 201 Rep Power: 17	Hey Brian, Thanks for the offer of pics and measurements on the rotisiree. Whenever you get a chance to do that it would be great. No rush, you have enough on your hands. I think it will be a good height for all three gens. Both the FB and FD bodies appear to be shorter from rockers to roof visually than the FC. I can always modify the original design. Dave

02-11-2010, 03:40 PM	#100
WE3RX7 RCC Addict Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: VA iTrader: (1) Posts: 1,812 Rep Power: 18	Does Kirky have a part # on that bolt in cage for the FC or was it simply made to order? I'm still probably going the autopower 6 point mainly so I can add door bars to fulfill the requirement, but I love the connection in the rear and the x brace.... the added trans tunnel bar is a good idea too....

02-12-2010, 09:58 AM	#104
WE3RX7 RCC Addict Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: VA iTrader: (1) Posts: 1,812 Rep Power: 18	Ah - good to know on the cage. I knew it looked custom but the bolted in factor was throwing me...