epoxy + exhaust sleeve...

sen2two · 10-06-2009, 01:24 PM

Im gonna be using this in the exhaust area and also my coolant area. didnt know if anyone here as used it. JB weld and devcon have a temp rating of about 500-600* F. this stuff is labeled as 2400* F and claims to increase in strength with heat. if normal exhaust temps are usually around 1600-1700*, this stuff should be fine. so this is great stuff if you would like to remove your exhaust sleeve and reshape one out of epoxy. might work wonders...

anyone have experience with this?

http://automotive-oilsandfluids.blog...high-temp.html

***TitaniumTT*** · 10-06-2009, 06:47 PM

I've seen cured 2000* high heat paint wipe off with a little carb clean. I doubt it'll hold up

NoDOHC · 10-06-2009, 07:19 PM

If you are NA and don't rev past your ignition capabilities or run lean, you might be ok. If you rev past 6,000 rpm, install a turbo or run lean of 15:1, you can forget it (I have seen headers white hot before).

alexyjay · 10-06-2009, 10:15 PM

what part of the exhaust? the rotor housing.i didn't see anything on that site that said it works on aluminum.

sen2two · 10-06-2009, 11:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by alexyjay

what part of the exhaust? the rotor housing.i didn't see anything on that site that said it works on aluminum.

what i mean is to remove the exhaust sleeve insert and use this puddy for a new sleeve. kinda like using JB weld to fill and shape the bowl in the intake runner. Theres a few people that have removed the sleeves and had an aluminum one thats better shaped.

Quote:

Originally Posted by TitaniumTT

I've seen cured 2000* high heat paint wipe off with a little carb clean. I doubt it'll hold up

very true. ceramic paint does ware off. but im wondering if it will hold up because its a puddy and will be much thicker than spray on paint.

now i think the problem is having it hot for extened periods of time it could cause problems. especially on a road race car or on a long drive in a street car. maybe losing its bond and coming loose due to expansion. this could be solved using roll pins like the stock one does. i doubt the actual puddy would melt. but my intentions for this are purely 1/4 mile drag racing. where the car is running for a minute, burn out, stage, run the 1/4 and get back in line. thats maybe 3 minutes of run time. so im thinking it would be OK.

if used in the exhaust to form a sleeve, the worst that would happen is it comes loose. it can not be sucked into the motor and could not cause and major damage. just remove the header and its gone. also, JB weld and Devcon are only rated at 500* and they hold up well in the intake side. im thinking somethings with 2400* wouldnt do to bad on the exhaust side.

***TitaniumTT*** · 10-06-2009, 11:20 PM

Just drill and tap it, plug it like I did, or send it to RB and have it done RIGHT!

***TitaniumTT*** · 10-07-2009, 12:11 AM

If your intentions are drag, remove the sleeve and be done with it. You realize that the factory sleeves are iconel and there to keep as much of the exhaust heat from transfering to the housings as possible?

As for the cured 2400* paint....... it was on my irons. Lasted a few thousand miles and when I rebuilt it, I was cleaning the surfaces with carb clean before the denatured alky bath and the paint came right off. Down to the epoxy primer. The primer was fine, the hi-temp paint was wiped clean.

I don't know where to go with this one.... I sincerely doubt the puddy will stand up to the heat. As in I would put money on it failing. But why not test it? I bought a lazer temp probe from Levine for like $40. Same company that makes those code checkers that you can buy, pretty damn accurate too. Buy one of those, mold your sleeve, and put it next to a factory sleeve. Heat the bejeezus out of both and when the puddy melts, hit it with the temp probe. Then report back.

sen2two · 10-07-2009, 01:20 AM

pretty good way to check. i might check that out...

10-06-2009, 01:24 PM	#1
sen2two KTEC Join Date: Jan 2009 iTrader: (2) Posts: 642 Rep Power: 0	epoxy + exhaust sleeve... Im gonna be using this in the exhaust area and also my coolant area. didnt know if anyone here as used it. JB weld and devcon have a temp rating of about 500-600* F. this stuff is labeled as 2400* F and claims to increase in strength with heat. if normal exhaust temps are usually around 1600-1700, this stuff should be fine. so this is great stuff if you would like to remove your exhaust sleeve and reshape one out of epoxy. might work wonders... anyone have experience with this? http://automotive-oilsandfluids.blog...high-temp.html __________________ what I have:* 1985 Gs:12a All motor Drag car - 1973 Rx2: Play car What I had: 93 Touring: TRADED - 91 Coupe: TRADED - 90 GTU: RHD - 88 10AE: SOLD - 87 Base: SOLD - 86 Base: SOLD - 1985 GSLSE - 85 Gsl: SOLD - 80 Gs: TRADED - 1972 Rx2

10-06-2009, 06:47 PM	#2
*TitaniumTT* Test Whore - Admin Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Right Behind you son iTrader: (4) Posts: 4,581 Rep Power: 10	I've seen cured 2000* high heat paint wipe off with a little carb clean. I doubt it'll hold up __________________ -The Angry Stig- DGRR 2009, 2011, 2012 & 2013 - Best FC DEALS GAP!! WOOHOOOO!!!!! 2015 Audi S4 - Samantha - Zero Brap S4 2004 RX8 - Jocelyn - 196rwhp, 19mpg fuel to noise converter 2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport - Wifey mobile - Now with 2.5" OME lift and 30" BFG AT KO's! So it begins 1998 Jeep Cherokee - 5 spd, 4" lift, 33" BFG's - Rotary Tow Vehicle 1988 'Vert - In progress 1988 FC Coupe - Gretchen -The attention whore BEAST! I'm a sick individual, what's wrong with you? I'm pure Evil I'm still insane, in the best possible way. I think Brian's idea of romance is using lube. Your rage caused the meteor strike in Russia. The Antichrist would be proud of his minion. You win with your thread. Most everything It's a truck with a steel gate on the back. Just a statement of fact Motec M820, AIM dash, ported 13B-RE Cosmo, 6-spd trans, 4.3 Torsen, custom twin wg fully divided mani, Custom 4" split into 2x 3" exhaust, Custom HMIC, Custom custom custom custom I like to welder stuff.... No Bolt-ons allowed. Dyno'ed @ Speed1 Tuned by me - 405rwhp on WG.... WM50 cuming soon. *-Angry Motherfcker Mode ENGAGED-**

10-06-2009, 07:19 PM	#3
NoDOHC The quest for more torque Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Sheboygan, Wisconsin iTrader: (1) Posts: 855 Rep Power: 17	If you are NA and don't rev past your ignition capabilities or run lean, you might be ok. If you rev past 6,000 rpm, install a turbo or run lean of 15:1, you can forget it (I have seen headers white hot before). __________________ 1986 GXL ('87 4-port NA - Haltech E8, LS2 Coils. Defined Autoworks Headers, Dual 2.5" Exhaust (Dual Superflow, dBX mufflers) 1991 Coupe (KYB AGX Shocks, Eibach lowering springs, RB exhaust, Stock and Automatic)

10-06-2009, 11:20 PM	#6
*TitaniumTT* Test Whore - Admin Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Right Behind you son iTrader: (4) Posts: 4,581 Rep Power: 10	Just drill and tap it, plug it like I did, or send it to RB and have it done RIGHT! __________________ -The Angry Stig- DGRR 2009, 2011, 2012 & 2013 - Best FC DEALS GAP!! WOOHOOOO!!!!! 2015 Audi S4 - Samantha - Zero Brap S4 2004 RX8 - Jocelyn - 196rwhp, 19mpg fuel to noise converter 2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport - Wifey mobile - Now with 2.5" OME lift and 30" BFG AT KO's! So it begins 1998 Jeep Cherokee - 5 spd, 4" lift, 33" BFG's - Rotary Tow Vehicle 1988 'Vert - In progress 1988 FC Coupe - Gretchen -The attention whore BEAST! I'm a sick individual, what's wrong with you? I'm pure Evil I'm still insane, in the best possible way. I think Brian's idea of romance is using lube. Your rage caused the meteor strike in Russia. The Antichrist would be proud of his minion. You win with your thread. Most everything It's a truck with a steel gate on the back. Just a statement of fact Motec M820, AIM dash, ported 13B-RE Cosmo, 6-spd trans, 4.3 Torsen, custom twin wg fully divided mani, Custom 4" split into 2x 3" exhaust, Custom HMIC, Custom custom custom custom I like to welder stuff.... No Bolt-ons allowed. Dyno'ed @ Speed1 Tuned by me - 405rwhp on WG.... WM50 cuming soon. *-Angry Motherfcker Mode ENGAGED-**

10-07-2009, 12:11 AM	#7
*TitaniumTT* Test Whore - Admin Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Right Behind you son iTrader: (4) Posts: 4,581 Rep Power: 10	If your intentions are drag, remove the sleeve and be done with it. You realize that the factory sleeves are iconel and there to keep as much of the exhaust heat from transfering to the housings as possible? As for the cured 2400* paint....... it was on my irons. Lasted a few thousand miles and when I rebuilt it, I was cleaning the surfaces with carb clean before the denatured alky bath and the paint came right off. Down to the epoxy primer. The primer was fine, the hi-temp paint was wiped clean. I don't know where to go with this one.... I sincerely doubt the puddy will stand up to the heat. As in I would put money on it failing. But why not test it? I bought a lazer temp probe from Levine for like $40. Same company that makes those code checkers that you can buy, pretty damn accurate too. Buy one of those, mold your sleeve, and put it next to a factory sleeve. Heat the bejeezus out of both and when the puddy melts, hit it with the temp probe. Then report back. __________________ -The Angry Stig- DGRR 2009, 2011, 2012 & 2013 - Best FC DEALS GAP!! WOOHOOOO!!!!! 2015 Audi S4 - Samantha - Zero Brap S4 2004 RX8 - Jocelyn - 196rwhp, 19mpg fuel to noise converter 2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport - Wifey mobile - Now with 2.5" OME lift and 30" BFG AT KO's! So it begins 1998 Jeep Cherokee - 5 spd, 4" lift, 33" BFG's - Rotary Tow Vehicle 1988 'Vert - In progress 1988 FC Coupe - Gretchen -The attention whore BEAST! I'm a sick individual, what's wrong with you? I'm pure Evil I'm still insane, in the best possible way. I think Brian's idea of romance is using lube. Your rage caused the meteor strike in Russia. The Antichrist would be proud of his minion. You win with your thread. Most everything It's a truck with a steel gate on the back. Just a statement of fact Motec M820, AIM dash, ported 13B-RE Cosmo, 6-spd trans, 4.3 Torsen, custom twin wg fully divided mani, Custom 4" split into 2x 3" exhaust, Custom HMIC, Custom custom custom custom I like to welder stuff.... No Bolt-ons allowed. Dyno'ed @ Speed1 Tuned by me - 405rwhp on WG.... WM50 cuming soon. *-Angry Motherfcker Mode ENGAGED-**

10-06-2009, 10:15 PM	#4
alexyjay The Newbie Join Date: Jul 2009 iTrader: (0) Posts: 20 Rep Power: 0	what part of the exhaust? the rotor housing.i didn't see anything on that site that said it works on aluminum.

10-07-2009, 01:20 AM	#8
sen2two KTEC Join Date: Jan 2009 iTrader: (2) Posts: 642 Rep Power: 0	pretty good way to check. i might check that out... __________________ what I have: 1985 Gs:12a All motor Drag car - 1973 Rx2: Play car What I had: 93 Touring: TRADED - 91 Coupe: TRADED - 90 GTU: RHD - 88 10AE: SOLD - 87 Base: SOLD - 86 Base: SOLD - 1985 GSLSE - 85 Gsl: SOLD - 80 Gs: TRADED - 1972 Rx2