Ok, all my Q's in this thread

7fire3 · 05-30-2009, 02:13 PM

I've made to many threads asking single Q's, so I'm just going to lump it all in here.

Question
1. Why does my car idle at 1500 RPM? but after it warms and drives for a while it wants to die or idle low. Is it a vacuum leak? Or something more serious?

2. What are things I should check first on the car?

3. The guy before me has a fuel line/pump switch. It's kinda ghetto rigged under the dash. Is there a better way to hook one up and have it work better?

7fire3 · 06-01-2009, 09:29 PM

??

Caim · 06-01-2009, 11:01 PM

I am not going to go into the first one, just because i do not have time..

2. I would go about checking the compression first just to see where you stand. It always a good thing to know. And other then that what is done to the car so i know where to go with this.

3. I would go back to as close to stock as possible. But if you cant then i would end up wiring it up to a relay so that way it works when the key is on, and also it is the right way to do it.

7fire3 · 06-01-2009, 11:28 PM

How much are these cars worth stock with low compression? If for some reason I do decide to sell it (Not that I will) but it's good to know.

need RX7 · 06-02-2009, 03:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 7fire3

How much are these cars worth stock with low compression? If for some reason I do decide to sell it (Not that I will) but it's good to know.

Free if you drop it off at my house

But really, a bone stock series 4 n/a with low compression isn't worth that much. I bought my '86 base with a blown engine for $500. So maybe, going on the hope that the housings are still okay, maybe $700, if you're lucky?

Max777 · 06-02-2009, 02:56 AM

/\ $100. :d

7fire3 · 06-02-2009, 10:51 AM

I'm not saying my car does have low comp but only IF it does, and it's a TII 88 RX7 with 125k miles

moremazda · 06-03-2009, 07:56 AM

If that is 125k on the original motor than most likely the compression is lower than ideal. You really should start with a compression check.

Does it start right up or does it take a few cranks?

Phoenix7 · 06-03-2009, 11:50 AM

1. could be a bad TPS, could be an intake leak

2. Things to check: Compression, leaks, fluids must be topped off, spark plugs must be clean, check fuel filter, Oil change......

3. If you can clean it up then do that but that switch only tells me the guy had flooding issues. If it works leave it alone....

These cars sell for 100-4500 depending on condition.

7fire3 · 06-03-2009, 08:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by moremazda

If that is 125k on the original motor than most likely the compression is lower than ideal. You really should start with a compression check.

Does it start right up or does it take a few cranks?

Usually it starts in around 1 crank, I'm sure the compression isn't like new but it seems to run and drive fine. The oil and coolant seem to be great and it never smokes. Just idles weird.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Phoenix7

1. could be a bad TPS, could be an intake leak

2. Things to check: Compression, leaks, fluids must be topped off, spark plugs must be clean, check fuel filter, Oil change......

3. If you can clean it up then do that but that switch only tells me the guy had flooding issues. If it works leave it alone....

These cars sell for 100-4500 depending on condition.

I am thinking it's the TPS now, I'm going to check around and make sure.

I'm going to run some rotella 15-40 or around that in it soon, the oil change in it now seems a little old

Also what I meant about the switch was where is a good place to put it?

Thx u all

05-30-2009, 02:13 PM	#1
7fire3 The Newbie Join Date: May 2009 iTrader: (0) Posts: 14 Rep Power: 0	Ok, all my Q's in this thread I've made to many threads asking single Q's, so I'm just going to lump it all in here. Question 1. Why does my car idle at 1500 RPM? but after it warms and drives for a while it wants to die or idle low. Is it a vacuum leak? Or something more serious? 2. What are things I should check first on the car? 3. The guy before me has a fuel line/pump switch. It's kinda ghetto rigged under the dash. Is there a better way to hook one up and have it work better?

06-01-2009, 11:01 PM	#3
Caim Rotary Fan in Training Join Date: Feb 2009 iTrader: (0) Posts: 93 Rep Power: 16	I am not going to go into the first one, just because i do not have time.. 2. I would go about checking the compression first just to see where you stand. It always a good thing to know. And other then that what is done to the car so i know where to go with this. 3. I would go back to as close to stock as possible. But if you cant then i would end up wiring it up to a relay so that way it works when the key is on, and also it is the right way to do it. __________________

06-02-2009, 02:56 AM	#6
Max777 Pirate Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Central IL iTrader: (5) Posts: 1,323 Rep Power: 18	/\ $100. :d __________________ Rotaries:They are NOT that complicated!

06-01-2009, 09:29 PM	#2
7fire3 The Newbie Join Date: May 2009 iTrader: (0) Posts: 14 Rep Power: 0	??

06-01-2009, 11:28 PM	#4
7fire3 The Newbie Join Date: May 2009 iTrader: (0) Posts: 14 Rep Power: 0	How much are these cars worth stock with low compression? If for some reason I do decide to sell it (Not that I will) but it's good to know.

06-02-2009, 10:51 AM	#7
7fire3 The Newbie Join Date: May 2009 iTrader: (0) Posts: 14 Rep Power: 0	I'm not saying my car does have low comp but only IF it does, and it's a TII 88 RX7 with 125k miles

06-03-2009, 07:56 AM	#8
moremazda shookmotorsports.com Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Rockford, IL iTrader: (1) Posts: 108 Rep Power: 17	If that is 125k on the original motor than most likely the compression is lower than ideal. You really should start with a compression check. Does it start right up or does it take a few cranks?