DLIDFIS on FB

leknaw · 05-24-2009, 07:38 PM

These are the parts I used:

80 dizzy
3 good ignitors
3 MSD blaster coils
red & green wire
30 amps relay, (Radio Shack)
1 tube Heat sink
1 set Taylor custom wires, and 2ea Taylor repair kits
Some old connectors, ignitors boots
Electrical repair kit, (plugs, connectors & insulators), wire stripers
1 piece of aluminum about 2.5 x 4 in
1 ground strap
custom brackets

I chose the 80 dizzy because the wires are long enough and it was laying around for another project with MSDs.
After looking at my crowded engine bay, I chose to place the trailing coil by the battery, since is the only place that I have enough room.
I placed both leading coils in the stock position and will make a bracket for the trailing.
I made two long (36") leading plug wires with the Taylor repair kit.
Ran the 30 AMPS relay hot wire from a 30 AMPS fuse on my added fuse block. Ran the switched wire from a plug I found by the brake booster.
Cut and polished the aluminum plate, traced and drilled the holes for the ignitors screws, as well as the holes for the wires going to the dizzy.
Covered the back of the ignitors with the heat sink and placed them on the aluminum plate.
Ran the red and green wires from the coils to the ignitors and then to the dizzy as described by Jeff's write up.
Conducted a voltage test. Voltage is only going to be present on the coils and the B & C of the ignitors, (were the plugs with boots go on).
I had to crank the car a couple of times and move the distributor around to get it gone. Once it fire up, I had to adjust the fuel/air misture a bit.
After adjusting the timing the car idles nice and easy. I accelerated it several times and it is obvious as to how much quicker it revs up. I have yet to take it on the road. I have to place the battery tray back in place, ( I took t out to clean it and coated with rubber undercoating), and secure the trailing coil.
I am getting a custom battery box with a mount for the coil made up this coming week.

Hope this is helpfull and not at all confusing.

leknaw · 05-24-2009, 07:40 PM

Here are afew more pics

Rogue_Wulff · 05-25-2009, 09:02 AM

How thick is that plate? I have a car with the DLIDFIS, but it uses the GM HEI modules, rather than the FB ignitors. The modules were mounted on a thin (22ga) piece of sheet metal when I got the car, and all 3 modules went bad after only a short time. I have since replaced the mounting plate with a 1/8" piece of stainless plate, and used artic silver paste. The modules stay MUCH cooler now. I also mounted it a manner that will allow for good airflow on both sides of the plate/modules, and considered adding a small fan for extra cooling. PC case fans use 12V DC, so they are perfect for such applications....
I don't know what the car ran like before the DLIDFIS conversion, but it has killer throttle response, and pulls very hard all the way to 7K+. It's an SE 6p 13B with RB intake/header and edelbrock 600.

leknaw · 05-25-2009, 04:19 PM

I used an 1/8" aluminum plate. I did noticed how hot the plate gets after been running for a while and did though about using a smal fan as well to generate some air flow for cooling. I have yet to secure the plate somehow so that is not loose. I want to build a bracket that will give room on the back of the plate as well as the front. I was looking at a 2nd Gen coils and the stock bracket looks like it will work. I do have a computer I am ready to trash that I can get the fan out of. Will take a look at it later on today, Thanks!

Kentetsu · 05-26-2009, 12:55 PM

Could you attach a heat sink to the backside of the plate?

leknaw · 05-26-2009, 07:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kentetsu

Could you attach a heat sink to the backside of the plate?

I guess that would help. I just got to find one small enough to fit and still disipate the heat. The computer fan should help too.

I took the car out for a drive today and it ran very well. Quick and smooth pick up. I did had some trouble cramkimg it up once I stoped. I believe this was cause by high heat on the igniters. So again, a heat sink and the fan should help woth this

leknaw · 05-26-2009, 07:37 PM

First I like to say thanks to Jeff and Wacky for starting this up way back then and for the research they conducted. I basically followed their lead. I have re-write the post in order to cover the small details and I hope this is more helpfull.

These are the parts I used:

80 dizzy
3 good igniters
3 MSD blaster coils
red & green wire (18 ga)
30 amps relay, (Radio Shack), Prt Number 275-0226
1 tube Heat sink
1 set Taylor custom wires, and 2ea Taylor repair kits,
(part # 409 Repair Kit 90/180 Boots 45963)
Some old connectors, igniters boots
Electrical repair kit, (plugs, connectors & insulators), wire stripers
1 piece of aluminum about 2.5 x 4 in
1 ground strap
custom brackets

I chose the 80 dizzy because the wires are long enough and it was laying around for another project with MSDs.
After looking at my crowded engine bay, I chose to place the trailing coil by the battery, since is the only place that I have enough room.
I placed both leading coils in the stock position and will make a bracket for the trailing coil.
I made two long (36") leading plug wires with the Taylor repair kit.
Ran the 30 AMPS relay hot wire from a 30 AMPS fuse on my added fuse block. (See pic below)

Ran the switched wire from the blue wire on the plug I found by the brake booster. (Looked it up on the Mazda repair manual and could not come up with anything).

Cut and polished the aluminum plate, traced and drilled the holes for the igniters screws, as well as the holes for the wires going to the dizzy.
Covered the back of the igniters with the heat sink and placed them on the aluminum plate.

Ran the red wires from the negative side of the leading coils to the C blade,
(-) of the leading igniters and the green wires from positive side of the coils to the B blade, (+) of the two leading igniters and then to the dizzy in the following manner.
Red wire (+) from G side on the back of the igniters to the red wire on the dizzy, I used a but connector from the electrical kit and some insulators to prevent the connection from getting wet.
I spliced the two G (+) connections, (red wires together on the back of the igniters plate, and connected them to the leading red wire coming from the dizzy’s magnetic pick up.
Did the same with the S (-) connetions. (green wires)

I used a jumper wire to power up all three coils. This wire runs from the back of the 30 amp relay.
The relay is connected in the following manner:

85 Switched 12 V from plug (red/blue)

12 V out to coils

30 87 12 V in from fuze box (red)

86 Ground (black)

For the trailing coil I ran two wires, red (-) & green (+), in the same manner as the leading as far as the color codes and the negative and positive are concern. Use the same blade connectors to plug into the trailing igniter, which sits on the right side of the plate as you look at it from the front.

After everything was connected I conducted a voltage test. Voltage is only going to be present on both sides, ( - & +) of all three coils and the B & C of the igniters, (were the plugs with boots go on).

I had to crank the car a couple of times and moved the distributor around to get it close to a timing reference. Once it fire up, I had to adjust the fuel/air mixture a bit. After adjusting the timing the car idles nice and easy. I accelerated it several times and it is obvious as to how much quicker it revs up. I will be placing a computer fan on the igniters plate to provide some cooling as they get extremely hot. The fan should provide for a longer life span of the igniters.

05-25-2009, 04:19 PM	#4
leknaw Rotary Fan in Training Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: GA iTrader: (1) Posts: 81 Rep Power: 17	Plate thickness I used an 1/8" aluminum plate. I did noticed how hot the plate gets after been running for a while and did though about using a smal fan as well to generate some air flow for cooling. I have yet to secure the plate somehow so that is not loose. I want to build a bracket that will give room on the back of the plate as well as the front. I was looking at a 2nd Gen coils and the stock bracket looks like it will work. I do have a computer I am ready to trash that I can get the fan out of. Will take a look at it later on today, Thanks!

05-26-2009, 07:37 PM	#7
leknaw Rotary Fan in Training Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: GA iTrader: (1) Posts: 81 Rep Power: 17	Re-cap and update First I like to say thanks to Jeff and Wacky for starting this up way back then and for the research they conducted. I basically followed their lead. I have re-write the post in order to cover the small details and I hope this is more helpfull. These are the parts I used: 80 dizzy 3 good igniters 3 MSD blaster coils red & green wire (18 ga) 30 amps relay, (Radio Shack), Prt Number 275-0226 1 tube Heat sink 1 set Taylor custom wires, and 2ea Taylor repair kits, (part # 409 Repair Kit 90/180 Boots 45963) Some old connectors, igniters boots Electrical repair kit, (plugs, connectors & insulators), wire stripers 1 piece of aluminum about 2.5 x 4 in 1 ground strap custom brackets I chose the 80 dizzy because the wires are long enough and it was laying around for another project with MSDs. After looking at my crowded engine bay, I chose to place the trailing coil by the battery, since is the only place that I have enough room. I placed both leading coils in the stock position and will make a bracket for the trailing coil. I made two long (36") leading plug wires with the Taylor repair kit. Ran the 30 AMPS relay hot wire from a 30 AMPS fuse on my added fuse block. (See pic below) Ran the switched wire from the blue wire on the plug I found by the brake booster. (Looked it up on the Mazda repair manual and could not come up with anything). Cut and polished the aluminum plate, traced and drilled the holes for the igniters screws, as well as the holes for the wires going to the dizzy. Covered the back of the igniters with the heat sink and placed them on the aluminum plate. Ran the red wires from the negative side of the leading coils to the C blade, (-) of the leading igniters and the green wires from positive side of the coils to the B blade, (+) of the two leading igniters and then to the dizzy in the following manner. Red wire (+) from G side on the back of the igniters to the red wire on the dizzy, I used a but connector from the electrical kit and some insulators to prevent the connection from getting wet. I spliced the two G (+) connections, (red wires together on the back of the igniters plate, and connected them to the leading red wire coming from the dizzy’s magnetic pick up. Did the same with the S (-) connetions. (green wires) I used a jumper wire to power up all three coils. This wire runs from the back of the 30 amp relay. The relay is connected in the following manner: 85 Switched 12 V from plug (red/blue) 12 V out to coils 30 87 12 V in from fuze box (red) 86 Ground (black) For the trailing coil I ran two wires, red (-) & green (+), in the same manner as the leading as far as the color codes and the negative and positive are concern. Use the same blade connectors to plug into the trailing igniter, which sits on the right side of the plate as you look at it from the front. After everything was connected I conducted a voltage test. Voltage is only going to be present on both sides, ( - & +) of all three coils and the B & C of the igniters, (were the plugs with boots go on). I had to crank the car a couple of times and moved the distributor around to get it close to a timing reference. Once it fire up, I had to adjust the fuel/air mixture a bit. After adjusting the timing the car idles nice and easy. I accelerated it several times and it is obvious as to how much quicker it revs up. I will be placing a computer fan on the igniters plate to provide some cooling as they get extremely hot. The fan should provide for a longer life span of the igniters.

05-25-2009, 09:02 AM	#3
Rogue_Wulff Non Member Join Date: Jun 2008 iTrader: (0) Posts: 310 Rep Power: 17	How thick is that plate? I have a car with the DLIDFIS, but it uses the GM HEI modules, rather than the FB ignitors. The modules were mounted on a thin (22ga) piece of sheet metal when I got the car, and all 3 modules went bad after only a short time. I have since replaced the mounting plate with a 1/8" piece of stainless plate, and used artic silver paste. The modules stay MUCH cooler now. I also mounted it a manner that will allow for good airflow on both sides of the plate/modules, and considered adding a small fan for extra cooling. PC case fans use 12V DC, so they are perfect for such applications.... I don't know what the car ran like before the DLIDFIS conversion, but it has killer throttle response, and pulls very hard all the way to 7K+. It's an SE 6p 13B with RB intake/header and edelbrock 600.

05-26-2009, 12:55 PM	#5
Kentetsu RCC Contributor Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Grand Rapids, Michigan iTrader: (1) Posts: 530 Rep Power: 17	Could you attach a heat sink to the backside of the plate?