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RX-7 2nd Gen Specific (1986-92) RX-7 1986-92 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections. |
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04-17-2009, 12:33 PM | #1 |
RCC Loves Me Not You
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Engine break in question
I'm getting closer to breaking in the engine and I have a few questions regarding it:
first and foremost is should I leave the turbo disconnected for the 1000mi break in period and just run naturally aspirated and just lean out the fuel. Then once the break in period is finished I just hook up the boost? Or should I run the car with everything hooked up and just stay out of boost as much as possible during break in?
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The Official FC Radiator Thread My Project Thread: Cerberus CCVT Virginia Rotary Group |
04-17-2009, 01:49 PM | #2 |
RCC Addict
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It's too much trouble to "disconnect" the turbo...
I would not recommend leaning anything - lean = HOT. Keep control of your right foot! -Ted |
04-17-2009, 01:55 PM | #3 | |
FUCK the fucking fuckers
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it's hard as hell to NOT boost but you gotta let the parts seat in right to ensure the motor lasts a long time.
What's the rule of thumb? I did no more than 3K rpms for first 500 miles, then 4Krpms next 500, and 500rpms higher every 100 miles.
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04-17-2009, 02:26 PM | #4 | |
RCC Loves Me Not You
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Quote:
I'll have to lean out my fuel even if I do run the turbo as I'll be running what looks like 900cc/min on the primaries and 1360cc/min on the secondaries. All this for 5 lbs of boost... So I should run with boost to ensure that the motor does sit the seals correctly? I would have figured that the seals wouldn't care one way or the other.
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The Official FC Radiator Thread My Project Thread: Cerberus CCVT Virginia Rotary Group |
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04-17-2009, 03:51 PM | #5 | |
FUCK the fucking fuckers
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: THE only Bay Area, Northern California
iTrader: (7)
Posts: 3,172
Rep Power: 20 |
I say no boost until the motor is done being broken in. then romp on it till it blows.
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04-17-2009, 06:26 PM | #7 |
Pirate
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I believe that Phoenix is not just talking about the apex seals, but all the parts in general.
an engine is made of aluminum, steel, rubber, all sorts of bolts, gaskets, hoses, etc. A "brand new" engine" is usually in tollerance if you look at all the parts individually, but it needs time to "Seat" all the pieces in one. Think of it as a kneaded eraser, when brand new, it doesnt erase very well, you need to stretch it, pinch it, and twist it untill its nice and soft/pliable in order for it to perform the best.
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Rotaries:They are NOT that complicated! |
04-19-2009, 07:30 AM | #8 |
The quest for more torque
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Vex:
I am running an NA 4 port and it is not as easy as disconnecting the outlet from the turbo. You should never have a turbo spinning (exhaust going through it) with the output of the compressor open to atmosphere (they can over-rev). You could just take the turbo completely off the engine if you block off the coolant feed, oil feed and oil return. I would leave the turbo on and just stay out of boost.
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1986 GXL ('87 4-port NA - Haltech E8, LS2 Coils. Defined Autoworks Headers, Dual 2.5" Exhaust (Dual Superflow, dBX mufflers) 1991 Coupe (KYB AGX Shocks, Eibach lowering springs, RB exhaust, Stock and Automatic) |