down pipe / abs heat sheild removal

[hades]

I am trying to install my very first downpipe - most of the info I have read says to remove the abs heat shield. I removed a few bolts and nut but it won't come free. Any advice? Everywhere says its a pain but doesn't give good guidance. Any help is greatly apprciated.

[Doc-1]

Not an just slide out from underneath of the ABS unit. Wiggle it out and rotate it toward the passenger fender. Slow and easy. You know when you have the right bolts off when you can LIFT the ABS unit up a little

[David Jerome]

You do NOT have to remove the ABS heat shield. Remove the intakes, secondary turbo inlet pipe, and the ypipe and you can see everything easily. If you were to still have clearance issues you can undo the motor mount bolts and lift the engine up with a hoist and push it towards the drivers side(about another 1/2 inch clearance.). There are 4 14mm headed nuts holding the down pipe on.

[Brent]

Be careful if you don't remove it. I sliced/split my finger to where the bone was sticking out and did some nerve damage putting on a downpipe a long time ago. As I finally broke the last bolt loose(the one that is hard to get to), my hand went flying into the edge of the ABS shield and blood splattered on my face like something out of a horror movie. I thought it was some type of fluid from the car at first. I still don't remove the shield, but I do always wear gloves now

[hades]

well, I will try without removing. But lets pretend I want to remove the shield for other reasons - like cleaning / painting. How would you remove it then?

[jkstill]

Originally Posted by Brent

Be careful if you don't remove it. I sliced/split my finger to where the bone was sticking out and did some nerve damage putting on a downpipe a long time ago. As I finally broke the last bolt loose(the one that is hard to get to), my hand went flying into the edge of the ABS shield and blood splattered on my face like something out of a horror movie. I thought it was some type of fluid from the car at first. I still don't remove the shield, but I do always wear gloves now

I tape up the edges of anything that sharp when working around it, in addition to wearing gloves.

The ABS heat shield in my FD is permanently taped with reflective heat tape as well.

[Brent]

Originally Posted by jkstill

I tape up the edges of anything that sharp when working around it, in addition to wearing gloves.

The ABS heat shield in my FD is permanently taped with reflective heat tape as well.

Yeah, I'm normally very careful about it. This was back around 2000 and the UPS man had just dropped off around $3000 worth of parts from the rx7store that I couldn't get on the car quick enough... haha. And when I say $3000 worth of parts... that was a PFC and Commander, exhaust, mp, dp, and intake. I'm so glad prices have dropped significantly much compared to what they use to be. Of course, because prices have dropped, the owner demographic has definitely changed as well... which is not so great.

[hades]

i have the heat shield off and 3 off the 4 studs removed. one of the lower bolts is being stubborn so I am taking my time and using a lot of pb blaster.

[jkstill]

Originally Posted by hades

i have the heat shield off and 3 off the 4 studs removed. one of the lower bolts is being stubborn so I am taking my time and using a lot of pb blaster.

I actually left one of the stud in when I put in my downpipe.

Lining up the downpipe and inserting the bolts without some type of a guide is fairly difficult.

Leaving a stud in makes it quite a bit easier IMO.

[Caim]

Well the best way to remove a stud if that is the plan that you decide to take is to double nut it... You put on nut on there thread it a little ways on there, then you put another one on. You tighten them together and then you use the lower one to back the stud out... It is like putting a head on the stud.

I removed mine if that helps you any.

[hades]

thought about that and applying heat first. Part of me says try to get pre-cat off and dp on first, without removing stud first. The other part says take it off first before you break it moving the pre-cat.

[hades]

I didn't pay attention to the studs lenth's when the came out.

Where do the short and long studs go?

Thanks,

[hades]

Originally Posted by Caim

Well the best way to remove a stud if that is the plan that you decide to take is to double nut it... You put on nut on there thread it a little ways on there, then you put another one on. You tighten them together and then you use the lower one to back the stud out... It is like putting a head on the stud.

I removed mine if that helps you any.

I had to put a lock washer between the nuts, to keep them from backing off. But other than that this worked like a champ. I didn't bother to heat the metal around the stud either. Lot of PB blaster though.

[hades]

Just took car for a spin. no exhaust leaks that I can see. The car boosts real quick to 6-7 psi then stuggles to get anymore--primary and secondary boost. I have a pretty good oil leak I need to resolve before I jump on the boost issue. Starts and idles great so I don't think its a compression issue.

The car is much louder and you can hear the turbos a lot more clearly. I am glad I went ahead and did this myself. It wasn't the worst job ever, but not something I would want to make a living at. I think next time will go much faster (if studs don't break).

Thanks for the help.

[David Jerome]

The bottom rear stud is the one you need to worry about the most if you are using an aftermarket d-pipe. Once the Dpipe is mounted make sure to tighten the bottom rear down first.