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RX-7 2nd Gen Specific (1986-92) RX-7 1986-92 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

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Old 06-28-2008, 02:14 PM   #1
buddyboy555
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Question clutch and dead engine

Clutch pedal goes half=way to the floor before I feel pressure. Also, the engine won't start, I have spark and can smell gas. The engine died the same time the clutch started acting up. Any help will be wonderfull. buddyboy555
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Old 06-28-2008, 03:06 PM   #2
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Have you bled your clutch system or replaced clutch parts recently?

Is the car flooded? How did the engine die?
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But I've learned that people that don't like guns, tend to like stretched tires.

Which makes perfect sense. They are sacrificing safety either way. lol


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Old 06-29-2008, 07:56 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phoenix7 View Post
Have you bled your clutch system or replaced clutch parts recently?

Is the car flooded? How did the engine die?
Hi, I have not bled the clutch and no new parts. Ten blocks from home I could smell something like burning garbage, at the next corner I shifted down to 2nd gear and the clutch pedal went half way to the floor. It shifted good up and down the rest of the way home. When I turned into my driveway and rolled up to the garage the car had already died. I checked under the hood to see if anything was burning. It looked OK. I went to start the engine and it would not start. It seemed like it was flooded. I held the acceleraton too the floor and it finnaly started. I had to keep the RPM's up to keep it running. I put the car in 1st gear and drove it into the garage. Since then it won't start no matter what I do. I have spark to the plugs and I can smell raw gas. Please help. buddyboy555.
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Old 06-29-2008, 08:53 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by buddyboy555 View Post
Hi, I have not bled the clutch and no new parts. Ten blocks from home I could smell something like burning garbage, at the next corner I shifted down to 2nd gear and the clutch pedal went half way to the floor. It shifted good up and down the rest of the way home. When I turned into my driveway and rolled up to the garage the car had already died. I checked under the hood to see if anything was burning. It looked OK. I went to start the engine and it would not start. It seemed like it was flooded. I held the acceleraton too the floor and it finnaly started. I had to keep the RPM's up to keep it running. I put the car in 1st gear and drove it into the garage. Since then it won't start no matter what I do. I have spark to the plugs and I can smell raw gas. Please help. buddyboy555.
I did fill the clutch reservoir with brake fluid and now the clutch pedal came back up and I only have about 3/4 inch free travel.
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Old 06-29-2008, 10:37 AM   #5
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this is he parts threads guys...
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Old 06-29-2008, 11:27 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by buddyboy555
Hi, I have not bled the clutch and no new parts. Ten blocks from home I could smell something like burning garbage, at the next corner I shifted down to 2nd gear and the clutch pedal went half way to the floor. It shifted good up and down the rest of the way home. When I turned into my driveway and rolled up to the garage the car had already died. I checked under the hood to see if anything was burning. It looked OK. I went to start the engine and it would not start. It seemed like it was flooded. I held the acceleraton too the floor and it finnaly started. I had to keep the RPM's up to keep it running. I put the car in 1st gear and drove it into the garage. Since then it won't start no matter what I do. I have spark to the plugs and I can smell raw gas. Please help. buddyboy555.

I did fill the clutch reservoir with brake fluid and now the clutch pedal came back up and I only have about 3/4 inch free travel.
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Old 06-29-2008, 12:36 PM   #7
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Spooledupracing: I've PMed a mod to have buddyboy's threads merged in the second gen section's thread, so it'll be gone soon.


As far as pedal travel: It could be a bad clutch slave cylinder. You can find one online for 30 bux. Look on top of the transmission by the firewall and check to see if there is a leak from the slave cylinder. CHeck the clutch line to see if it's damaged. You should be able to see a leak.

www.nopi.com has slave cylinders for 27-30 bux.
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But I've learned that people that don't like guns, tend to like stretched tires.

Which makes perfect sense. They are sacrificing safety either way. lol


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Old 06-30-2008, 02:35 PM   #8
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Compression check, if compression is good, its flooded.
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Old 07-01-2008, 12:13 AM   #9
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Thanks, I will try the compression test. What could happen to the compression? Would it be a bad lobe. As you can tell I am not up on rotary engines. It's a 88 RX7 convertable. I am 75 years old and this is my first convertable. I love the manule 5 speed tranny, makes me feel young again. Thanks for your help. buddyboy555
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Old 07-01-2008, 12:26 AM   #10
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are you really 75? Welcome to the rotary world nonetheless.

Condensed version:

there are no pistons, no valves, no cams, no timing chain or anything like the Piston engine.

Here is a rotor in action:


The FC (1986-1992) has a 2 rotor motor and here are some visuals:






Moving parts comparison:



Click PLAY: You may need to wait a while depending on your connection speeds.
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Originally Posted by Monkman33 View Post
But I've learned that people that don't like guns, tend to like stretched tires.

Which makes perfect sense. They are sacrificing safety either way. lol



Last edited by Phoenix7; 07-01-2008 at 01:36 AM.
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Old 07-02-2008, 10:57 AM   #11
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Hi, I am really 75, I was born 1-12-33. I can still enjoy driveing my Vert. around the lake country which have many twisty, crooked roads. With the 5 speed tranny I can remember when that was the only transmission exect for the Model T bands. Thanks for your help. I have found a old (73) year old rotary mechanic who said he would work on it for me. Thanks again. buddyboy555
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Old 07-01-2008, 12:42 AM   #12
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you asked about losing compression. At the tips of the rotor you have "apex seals," and on the side of the rotor you have "side seals." Together they seal off the combustion section and if any of those fail then you lose compression. It's mainly to avoid spending more money on the car if the motor is dead or dying.

Also note that if your motor is flooded it can give loss of compression symptoms.

Once you've established a healthy motor you can start the deflooding procedure:

You have an 88 so it's a Series 4.
1. You'll need to remove the EGI. INJ fuse in front of the driver's side strut tower/wheel well.

2. get back in the car and crank for 10 seconds. Put the fuse back in place and turn the car on. DO NOT APPLY ANY GAS WHILE DEFLOODING. If the car doesn't crank then try up to 2 more times. If the car does not start after the third attempt then move on.

3. Remove sparkplugs and make sure they are still in good shape (same piston engine rules apply). Replace if necessary.

This is as far as I've needed to go to de-flood my car. I'm sure others will chime in with further help if it's necessary.

Good luck.


Leaky, old injectors can cause flooding, not letting the car warm up before turning it on can cause it to flood also so look into these if it's a recurring problem.
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Originally Posted by Monkman33 View Post
But I've learned that people that don't like guns, tend to like stretched tires.

Which makes perfect sense. They are sacrificing safety either way. lol



Last edited by Phoenix7; 07-01-2008 at 12:44 AM.
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