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RX-7 3rd Gen Specific (1993-2002) RX-7 1993-2002 Discussion including performance modifications and Technical Support Sections. |
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#1 |
"It ain't no secret"
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 12
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alternator problems
what gives i've gone through 3 of alternators in a years time. would an aftermarket pulley cause the problem. i've also relocated the battery to rear of the car.
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#2 | |
FUCK the fucking fuckers
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: THE only Bay Area, Northern California
Posts: 3,172
Rep Power: 21 ![]() |
well, I'm having the same problem with my S5. I've been through 3 in the past 6 months.
I Keep killing the voltage regulator. I was told that it could be a faulty battery or the wiring that goes from the B-terminal to the battery. I just rewired the connection from the B-terminal to the battery (bypassing the stock one) and I'm going to see if the Alternator dies again. IF the alternator survives longer than 2 months (that's the time it took to kill the last alternator) then I know it's the wiring. If not then I'll try another battery. I feel your pain. Now, IF your belts are not tensioned properly they could cause your alternator to fail. You can't have one tight and another one loose. You can't have them both on too tight and you can't have both too loose. Screwed if you do and screwed if you dont. Double check to make sure the alternator, pullies and belts are in good shape and try avoid the issues above.
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Quote:
![]() Last edited by Phoenix7; 06-18-2008 at 01:13 PM. |
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#3 |
"It ain't no secret"
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 12
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i've only got one belt. I did the rewire to the terminal. i'm waiting on a battery to come in tomarrow. i've got a yellow top it's only 625 ca and i'm getting a red top with 910 ca.
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#4 | |
FUCK the fucking fuckers
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: THE only Bay Area, Northern California
Posts: 3,172
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cool. Did you do the re-wire on the current, dead, alternator? or on the new, WORKING, alternator you're getting?
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#5 |
"It ain't no secret"
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 12
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the current or dead one had the rewire.
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#6 | |
FUCK the fucking fuckers
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: THE only Bay Area, Northern California
Posts: 3,172
Rep Power: 21 ![]() |
hmmm, how long did it last with the wire? Did it last longer than the old alternator?
Let's hope it's a bad battery (it happens sometimes) otherwise we'd need to figure out what the problem is (since I JUST did the rewire on the alternator with the new voltage regulator and I'm not sure if the problem will persist.) if the modification + new battery doesn't help. Let me know how it goes for you.
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#7 | |
Mod With The Least :P
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Manchester, TN
Posts: 1,649
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What kinda Voltage is it putting out when it works?
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Resident Post Whore Polluting the environment one revolution at a time. ![]() www.tennspeed.net Quote:
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#8 |
"It ain't no secret"
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 12
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the last alternator lasted about a month and a half. but when i got it the casing on it was cracked. got it from auto zone. they're replacing it for me. i'm hoping it's the battery. it's been over charged by a battery charger that got posessed. been left completely dead for 5 mos. when i was in alaska. it even had juice come out of it once. it has been around for the last 4 years and always tested fine at auto zone. as far as voltage it usualy reads 14.1 to 14.6.
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#9 | |
FUCK the fucking fuckers
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: THE only Bay Area, Northern California
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well, we both agree that it takes 1.5 to 2 months for the alternator to die so let's see how it goes. You may have battery issues and I may have wiring issues. How crappy.
I've never had problems with my yellow top so i think the red top should be fine but they may require special procedures to recharge. I accidentally killed the yellow top in my TII when I charged it improperly. Keep that in mind.
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![]() Last edited by Phoenix7; 06-18-2008 at 04:59 PM. |
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#10 |
"It ain't no secret"
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 12
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Phoenix7 with my battery issues your wiring issues we might be able to get one of them right.lol. got done putting everything in today voltage is back to reading 14.4. hopefuly everything goes well.
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#11 | |
FUCK the fucking fuckers
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: THE only Bay Area, Northern California
Posts: 3,172
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#12 |
The Newbie
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Paris, France
Posts: 28
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My voltage can vary from 13.7 at iddle to 14.4. something wrong here?
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#13 |
Rotary Fan in Training
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Bath, OH
Posts: 37
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Somewhat off subject, but rebuilt alternators often can be junk. Just because it was old, I replaced a perfectly good but 190K mile alternator on a Chevy Van I use to tow my racecar with a rebuilt - the rebuilt died (bearing failure) in less than 10K miles, and I had to reinstall the 190K one in the middle of the night on the road.
Rebuilders often just replace enough stuff so it works, everything else not absolutely needed is still the original old stuff.
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Dave '93 Base VR bought new in March 1992, PFS SMIC & CAI (modified), HKS DP w/ Jet-Hot 2000, RB dual-tip CB, Linearized OE temperature gauge, Dual "Home-Depot" ceramic ball-spring MBC's, Pettit AST |
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#14 |
Rotary Fan in Training
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Bath, OH
Posts: 37
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sounds normal to me...
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Dave '93 Base VR bought new in March 1992, PFS SMIC & CAI (modified), HKS DP w/ Jet-Hot 2000, RB dual-tip CB, Linearized OE temperature gauge, Dual "Home-Depot" ceramic ball-spring MBC's, Pettit AST |
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#15 |
Rotary Fanatic
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: AL
Posts: 379
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^ That's what I was thinking. The voltage isn't going to be 100% constant, but will usually vary from 13.5 - 16.5 volts depending on the system. My old truck (63 Chevy V-8 conv. w/ stock I-6 alt.) used to see 14.4 constant (didn't have a radio or any accessories).
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1993 BB RX-7 2005 Black Mazda 6i 1991 Primer Celica GT 1968 Camo Chevy P/U Garfinkle's Airpump Idler Pulley: Keep the stock contact patch on your water pump w/o running Airpump! |
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