|
Rotary Tech - General Rotary Engine related tech section.. Tech section for general Rotary Engine... This includes, building 12As, 13Bs, 20Bs, Renesis, etc... |
Welcome to Rotary Car Club. You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today! If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact contact us. |
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
|
05-06-2008, 10:07 AM | #1 |
Rotary Fanatic
|
Flywheel and EShaft Pulley N&B
I know this has been discussed on the other forum, but I also think we need to build up information here. Besides, I like telling my stories. So...
I could not get the Pulley Bolt, or the flywheel nut to budge. So, As Ted and others suggested, I decided to set up my compressor (for the first time) and zip those suckers off fast and quick. Setting up the compressor (8.6scfm @40 PSI, 6.4scfm @90 PSI, 150PSI max, 33 Gal Tank, 2HP running) was cake. My impact is only rated at 300 Ft Lbs. (Got the whole rig at Sears on sale for about $300) Tried to remove the nut and bolt using the compressor. Zip. Nada. Wouldn't budge. So, remembering some information gathered a long time ago, I applied heat around the Flywheel nut using a propane torch for about 3-4 minutes (too long?). Came right off. The front pulley bolt was more stubborn, but after an additional three minutes or so, it also came off. I am guessing none. I just wonder how much damage (if any) all that heat could have done.
__________________
...shoot a mother-humpin moose, eight days of the week... Last edited by BLKTOPTRVL; 05-06-2008 at 10:09 AM.. |
05-06-2008, 12:27 PM | #3 |
Rotary Fanatic
|
Definitely replacing them, funny, the thing smoked for about 15 minutes after. Now I am off to go get a flywheel puller.
__________________
...shoot a mother-humpin moose, eight days of the week... Last edited by BLKTOPTRVL; 05-06-2008 at 04:53 PM.. |
05-06-2008, 06:09 PM | #4 |
Rotary Fanatic
|
Getting the Flywheel off.
Once again I went back to the old stories told...
Use a prybar and a soft mallet to remove the wheel. No dice. Then I found RotaryReserection's write up on the subject... http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/2n...el_remove.html Two slight blows to the FW and it was off. Thanks RR. I think his site should be compulsary reading.
__________________
...shoot a mother-humpin moose, eight days of the week... |
10-28-2008, 04:51 PM | #5 |
.drives like MrMagoo!
|
..just piss off your Sister and give her a hammer!..the parts fly off!..but seriously,I had my engine strapped on a pallet and I used a piece of chain on the Flywheel and attached it to a pressure plate bolt and the bolt that Holds the Trans to the Engine.With a 3 and 1/2 foot 3/4 drive breaker bar I got the 54mm Flywheel nut off.then while the Flywheel nut was Just Cracked(still on),I moved the assembly to tighten the other way,so I could get at the 19mm front pulley Nut.I put it on and had a Buddy steady it while I jumped on the Bar.It came right off..My total for a breaker bar and the Flywheel socket was 26 dollars CDN.(already had the 19mm Socket!.lol!)
|
10-31-2008, 06:59 AM | #6 |
Rotary Fanatic
|
Or you can make a special tool from an old pressure plate assembly.
Barry
__________________
GOD the Incomprehensible Obvious (www.frksj.org) |
11-07-2008, 06:29 AM | #7 |
Viable Fossil
|
^Some powdercoat and your ready to start a group buy.
This has been the best $90 I ever spent considering the trouble it's saved. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...temnumber=2623
__________________
Jim VR R1 FD |