Charging System Problem: All Idiot Lights ON

[Phoenix7]

well, you all know the classic alternator problem. When the alternator belt breaks and when the alternator is dying/dead all the IDIOT LIGHTS come ON to let you know your charging system is faulty and you're going to lose power.

Well, the only problem is that I have a new alternator and battery (less than 10K miles) and the problem is intermittent but all my lights came on today on my way home.

I know most of you will say it's the cluster and the soldering points coming lose and not making contact EXCEPT that when the lights come ON for a prolonged period of time (longest was 4 minutes) the battery goes down also.

I am trying to figure out what the problem is. The battery terminals are fine, the alternator is tight, the wires all look fine. I left the car on and started jiggling shit (ballsy, I KnOW, but i had not choice) and when I jiggled the alternator harness and the starter connection the lights came off and the battery began charging again.

I got in the car and drove home again but the lights turned on again, this time for 30 seconds, then they turned off and this continued for the next 30 minutes. I can't figure out if it's RPM specific or if it's a loose connection but it's pissing me off.

I'll continue checking the car and I'll connect the LED tester to see if it throws any codes at me. Stay tuned.



KEYWORDS: Alternator, Battery, Charging, System, Idiot, Lights, Cluster, Starter.

[RETed]

Dude, get a voltmeter to monitor system voltage...

That "feedback" plug sometimes gets loose.


-Ted

[Phoenix7]

well yeah, but it's intermittent. It stopped doing it tonight. I don't get it. I'll keep an eye on it and see what I can do.

[Phoenix7]

I found the culprit!!! Pics when I get home.

[Phoenix7]

An e-cookie if you spot the problem.

[RETed]

Looks like the feedback wire / plug wasn't pushed all the way in. :P


-Ted

[Phoenix7]

nope. Everything was nice and tight and in place. I noticed that if the wire under the rubber boot was pulled towards you (using the picture as a point of perspective) the battery would begin to charge, when I let it go the battery would not charge.

Look closer.

[Ex-Eg-Driver]

That plug is broken?

[Phoenix7]

nope, look at the black part under the brown plug. There is a crack right there. I may have bad wires also. I'm going to the alternator shop around here and getting a replacement first and see if that's casing a problem. I don't think it's supposed to be cracked.

[Ex-Eg-Driver]

its like a hairline crack

[Phoenix7]

if you twist it, it opens. It's broken for good though. I'll get a new one and then see if the heat got to the wires and toasted them.

[My5ABaby]

Is that not a metal piece (screw type thing) running through the cracked part? If so, how would the plastic being cracked affect it?

Regardless, if you replace it, crack it open and let me know.

[Phoenix7]

Originally Posted by RETed

Dude, get a voltmeter to monitor system voltage...

That "feedback" plug sometimes gets loose.


-Ted

Originally Posted by RETed

Looks like the feedback wire / plug wasn't pushed all the way in. :P


-Ted

Now, I thought the feedback wire was the plug that snaps into the alternator. Did you mean the wire underneath the rubber cover????? You may have been right all along, I just didn't know it.

Originally Posted by My5ABaby

Is that not a metal piece (screw type thing) running through the cracked part? If so, how would the plastic being cracked affect it?

Regardless, if you replace it, crack it open and let me know.

yes, it is a metal rod that is encased in hard plastic. I didn't think it had much to do with it but it's still broken so I couldn't rule it out until today.

I went to the alternator place that rebuilt my alternator and the guy said that the wire going to the B terminal was loose, even though it looked and felt tight. I'm going to cut the wires, install a new ring terminal and make sure it's tight. It should fix the problem. Update after work is done.

[RETed]

Originally Posted by My5ABaby

Is that not a metal piece (screw type thing) running through the cracked part? If so, how would the plastic being cracked affect it?

Yeah, I was about to ask the same thing...

It's like a bulkhead connector where the metal conductor is straight through?
If the plastic outer "casing" is cracked, it should've affect the function.
I would try and remove the piece and test conductivity while twisting it to see if it really is damaged that bad.

If is it cracked all the way through...DAYAM!


-Ted

[Phoenix7]

Decided to use a washer to see if it wasn't a bad contact like everyone believes. No lights. We'll see in a few days. If it returns then I might look into the wires.