Removing emissions

[WankelsRevenge]

To prep for the install of my megasquirt I plan on temoving all the unnecessary emissions stuff here in the next few days. Anyone know of a website that has a good writeup on the procedure? Ive done this before but its been a few years so wouldnt mind reading up on the proess.

[djmtsu]

Boom-

http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/2ndgen/techmenu.html

[My5ABaby]

Great write up, although I would suggest keeping the BAC. He mentions that some people keep it, and I'd go that route. I didn't have one on mine and it didn't matter too much when warmed up, but definitely made a difference while warming up.

That said, I know nothing about Megasquirts or if they run BACs.

[88turboii]

basically the only vacuum lines you need are the ones going to map sensor, fuel pressure regulator, and fuel atomizer port, and wastegate lines if turbo. Keep the coolant lines going to the thermowax if you dont want to have to throttle it to keep it idling when cold, but vacuum lines not needed. BAC not needed if you dont have a/c, else just jack up your idle a little if you want to lose the BAC

[WankelsRevenge]

Yeah I already did the full throttle body mod done and finished, so now its on to emissions systems removal. One thing I was thinming of doing though is using one of the coolant ports that go to the throttle body and tap it for the probe to my new temp gauge. Do you know if its the one on the front or the rear or the engine that is the feed port and which is the return?

[RETed]

Originally Posted by WankelsRevenge

Yeah I already did the full throttle body mod done and finished, so now its on to emissions systems removal. One thing I was thinming of doing though is using one of the coolant ports that go to the throttle body and tap it for the probe to my new temp gauge. Do you know if its the one on the front or the rear or the engine that is the feed port and which is the return?

That's not a good idea...

You're sticking a temperature sensor into, basically, a dead-end.
Ideally, you want coolant to be flowing through the area where the sensor is inserted.
Also, as a rule, you try to pick the highest point in your cooling system for this position, since heat rises.
This is why the stock ECU water temp sensor is located right underneath the thermostat...


-Ted

[WankelsRevenge]

Ahh damn. Any other recomendations? I was going to put it where the sensor is below the oil pressure sensor but the stock one wasnt big enough. Im hoping I can put it some place I wont have to remove anything major off the engine.

[Pete_89T2]

I'm using a stock TB, with the coolant lines intact, but what I did for my temp gauge sender is splice a brass "T" fitting into the hose that runs between the water pump housing (by the thermostat) and the front side of the BAC valve. It works fine, although my gauge temp consistently reads a few degrees below what my ECU temp sensor sees - I have an Rtek, so I can log/display all the sensors that the stock ECU uses. BUT this works only because coolant still flows thru the line - it's not a dead end as Ted stated.

Even though you yanked out the TB coolant connection, you might try running some hose from the rear iron nipple to the nipple on the water pump housing to re-establish flow, and then "T" into that line for your gauge temp sender? Routing such a hose may be a real PITA without the BAC and the stock TB though, which simplifies the plumbing.

[WankelsRevenge]

I'm still running the BAC. I'm thinking connecting the two nipples with a single house and running a T fitting like you did may be what I'll do. May not be a perfect reading but I can keep that in mind when monitoring my gauge.