Wiring differnences in SA/FB S1/S2/S3 power window switches - Hardcore Tech with Pics

[P71]

Ack! I've been chasing an INOP passenger power window since I got my 83 RX-7 GSL (S2). By popping the center console panel and swapping connectors real quick I was able to determine that the window operated perfectly (by using the driver's side switch), it was simply the switch that was bad. The problem with this is that switches are over $100 each new and the used market is rather "thin".

I managed to obtain a few spare switches. The first is a S3 (84-85) switch assembly. The S3 uses a different style of switch, there's still 2 rocker switches (one for each window), but the plug into a single harness. This assembly may operate S1/S2 windows, but one would have to sacrifice 2 S1/S2 switch harnesses and a S3 car harness to splice in a mid-harness, which seems like an awful lot of work.

I also obtained a set of S1 (79-80) switches. The rockers themselves are identical to the S2 rockers, down to the part #. The harness is even the same. However the harness features a different wiring scheme (solid green and green/blue chaser for the S1 vs. solid green and black/blue chaser for the S2). The harness itself also connects differently to the back of the switch. I believe that these switches can be re-pinned easily to work with the S2 car harness as one switch will roll the window down, and the other will roll it up.

More to follow!

Enjoy the MS Paint Diagram for now...

[2gslse]

I remember when I had a 81 rx-7 the switches could be taken apart and just clean the contacts. they usually had a lot of black deposits/dirt on them

[-xlr8planet-]

this is great
saving image...

[P71]

Here's the Pics.

Even though the wiring colors are different, the S1 (79-80) and S2 (81-83) switches operate the same, and can even swap side-to-side. After cleaning the contacts and re-soldering I got the pair of S1 switches to work in my 83. They do have a slightly different look to the actual rocker, not enough to notice until you have one of one and one of the other.

The first 2 pics are the S1 switch from the top, and then from the bottom to match my diagram.

The last 3 are the S3 switch assembly. Notice that the wiring for both switched combines into the one 6-pin harness. So if you have one switch go out (and don't want to do the old snip-and-solder to the wires) you have to replace the whole unit.

[P71]

And this is what a re-soldered switch looks like. Just take your time and use a quality soldering iron and a good solder meant for automotive wire applications.

With any luck this thread should help solve most power window switch problems for the 1st Gen's.