Starting & turning off the 8 moter.

[rotar bones]

[RETed]

Originally Posted by rotar bones

I have owned my 8 for 5 years now and wen I bought mine I asked the Mazda mechanic about any special things I needed to be aware of with the motor

I would suggest you find another mechanic.

and he told me that when in start it turn on my ignition and give it a few seconds for the fuel pump to catch up

Not necessary.

and when I turn it off rev it to around 3500 to 4000 rpm and dump the ignition turn it off.

This is a holdover from folks who used to drive cars in the 60's.
Engines with carbs with leaky bowls would start better with this method, but it also increased wear&tear.
The extra gas in the engine was a band-aid fix for leaking carb bowls that would normally be hard to start.
The extra gas would also wash away IMPORTANT oil film that would normally aid in compression (starting) and decrease wear&tear from cold starts.
No modern fuel injection engine should be doing this, and if there are problems on cold-starts, it is highly recommend to FIX the problem rather than apply this dangerous band-aid.


-Ted

[rotar bones]

Originally Posted by RETed

I would suggest you find another mechanic.


Not necessary.



This is a holdover from folks who used to drive cars in the 60's.
Engines with carbs with leaky bowls would start better with this method, but it also increased wear&tear.
The extra gas in the engine was a band-aid fix for leaking carb bowls that would normally be hard to start.
The extra gas would also wash away IMPORTANT oil film that would normally aid in compression (starting) and decrease wear&tear from cold starts.
No modern fuel injection engine should be doing this, and if there are problems on cold-starts, it is highly recommend to FIX the problem rather than apply this dangerous band-aid.


-Ted

I

[rotar bones]

Originally Posted by RETed

I would suggest you find another mechanic.


Not necessary.



This is a holdover from folks who used to drive cars in the 60's.
Engines with carbs with leaky bowls would start better with this method, but it also increased wear&tear.
The extra gas in the engine was a band-aid fix for leaking carb bowls that would normally be hard to start.
The extra gas would also wash away IMPORTANT oil film that would normally aid in compression (starting) and decrease wear&tear from cold starts.
No modern fuel injection engine should be doing this, and if there are problems on cold-starts, it is highly recommend to FIX the problem rather than apply this dangerous band-aid.


-Ted

How

[WE3RX7]

The revving up and killing ignition is an old carb trick as Ted mentioned. It doesn't apply to current EFI rotaries.

Mechanics are like doctors - if you have a serious question, it's best to get a second opinion, or maybe a third. You're just wasting gas revving your engine and shutting it off. Why after 80K and 6 years of doing this would you ask this question? It seems a bit odd - did your engine start showing signs of wear/compression loss and you're trying to pin it back to a specific shutdown procedure?

[rotar bones]

Originally Posted by WE3RX7

The revving up and killing ignition is an old carb trick as Ted mentioned. It doesn't apply to current EFI rotaries.

Mechanics are like doctors - if you have a serious question, it's best to get a second opinion, or maybe a third. You're just wasting gas revving your engine and shutting it off. Why after 80K and 6 years of doing this would you ask this question? It seems a bit odd - did your engine start showing signs of wear/compression loss and you're trying to pin it back to a specific shutdown procedure?

I asked the question because I wanted to start conversation that's it.

[WE3RX7]

Originally Posted by rotar bones

I asked the question because I wanted to start conversation that's it. If you really read my post you would know my motor is doing fine. I am aware of old tricks with cars, I started driving 1962. I am getting the impression that you really didn't read my post. My post wasn't met to be a question by me as if I don't know what happends or that I had motor issues I was trying to pin back on a procedure. I ask again, how do you start and stop your 8 if you have one?. I ask because I am not the only one who revvs up their motor ad dumps the ignition.
I have herd no offer of a reaction from you on how you start and stop your motor in your 8?. I do mine that way because it does scavenge the combustion chamber to some extent and it may have a connection to flooding, and I know about cold start and shut offs, as I said earlier I have done this for 80,000 miles no ill effect.So how do you start and turn off your 8,do you own a rx8?. can you respond to the original question please

You are awfully defensive about conversations in forums. I understand you were asking a question, but there are usually deeper meanings to the questions people ask in a forum setting, especially ones as benign as "how do you start/stop your rx8". So, to answer your question. I start my RX8 as most would. I unlock the door, climb in, depress the clutch (I leave my car in gear as well if that matters for you), turn the ignition over and what do you know - it starts. Now, to stop my RX8... I find a place to park it, pull in, hit the brakes to come to a complete stop, pull up on the emergency brake and turn off the ignition. Again, I usually leave it in gear as well.

To answer your other question. Yes, I own an RX8. In fact, this isn't my first RX8. Nor is it my first rotary.

Now - since you want to have a conversation about this. Let's talk about your 80,000 miles of revving the engine up to 3,500-4,000 (which is it? 500RPM is a big difference) and killing the ignition and it causing "no ill effect." How do you know there has been no ill effect on your engine? Did you do a compression test when it was brand new, and done another one now to compare to? Do you have a second RX8, identical in every way that you drive the exact same way and DON'T rev the engine up before killing ignition? Have you taken the engines out of both cars and done a thorough analysis and compared one to other to see if there was "no ill effect" on the rev-before-kill engine? Have you ever taken ANY rotary apart? Ever put one back together? Is this your first RX8? How many cars do you have? Blah blah...

I hope you are picking up on the cynical and at the same time rhetorical questions. That is my point.

Everybody has an opinon, get used to it.

[rotar bones]

Originally Posted by WE3RX7

You are awfully defensive about conversations in forums. I understand you were asking a question, but there are usually deeper meanings to the questions people ask in a forum setting, especially ones as benign as "how do you start/stop your rx8". So, to answer your question. I start my RX8 as most would. I unlock the door, climb in, depress the clutch (I leave my car in gear as well if that matters for you), turn the ignition over and what do you know - it starts. Now, to stop my RX8... I find a place to park it, pull in, hit the brakes to come to a complete stop, pull up on the emergency brake and turn off the ignition. Again, I usually leave it in gear as well.

To answer your other question. Yes, I own an RX8. In fact, this isn't my first RX8. Nor is it my first rotary.

Now - since you want to have a conversation about this. Let's talk about your 80,000 miles of revving the engine up to 3,500-4,000 (which is it? 500RPM is a big difference) and killing the ignition and it causing "no ill effect." How do you know there has been no ill effect on your engine? Did you do a compression test when it was brand new, and done another one now to compare to? Do you have a second RX8, identical in every way that you drive the exact same way and DON'T rev the engine up before killing ignition? Have you taken the engines out of both cars and done a thorough analysis and compared one to other to see if there was "no ill effect" on the rev-before-kill engine? Have you ever taken ANY rotary apart? Ever put one back together? Is this your first RX8? How many cars do you have? Blah blah...

I hope you are picking up on the cynical and at the same time rhetorical questions. That is my point.

Everybody has an opinon, get used to it.

You seem

[Fendamonky]

Originally Posted by rotar bones

You seem like a pugilistic type and I only wanted a honest conversation about it, but you seem like an angry guy and honestly guy I would seek some help on that issue ,seriously guy. You sound like you are angry and bragging and not conversing with me. I will just say good luck with your 8 and all your other cars. I am sorry you get so up set and every one is eentitled to their opinion and you have certainly stated yours , good luck sir.

You, sir, strike me as being ignorant of mechanics, rotaries, spelling, and grammar. That, or you're just a troll.

The person you're calling angry is probably one of the most even keel individuals I've run across, both on the forums and in real life.

If you think he's angry than GOD FORBID you ever get corrected by Brian

[Whizbang]

now ive heard of folks revving then turn off to clear the engine if the car has low compression and flooding issues. But generally, if the car is healthy. turning the key like normal should be plenty fine.

[rotar bones]

Originally Posted by Whizbang

now ive heard of folks revving then turn off to clear the engine if the car has low compression and flooding issues. But generally, if the car is healthy. turning the key like normal should be plenty fine.

I feel bad at this point for ever starting this thread

[Whizbang]

no worries.

the wear issue comes from the metering oil pump being electronic. So if the car is off, and the motor is spinning, its not injecting oil. Now this is just for a moment, but those moments start to add up. If your premixing and older car it still has this issue since its not injecting fuel (and thus the oil mix). The carbs would suck fuel down on the vacuum and remain unburnt but washes the oil film.

Thinking about it, the only car you could probably get away with it would be an S4 car or a GSLSE that was EFI and mechanical MOP.

Either way, development of flooding issues is usually a sign of a problem. Moreover, the cars do have the anti-flood fuel cut from depressing the throttle fully while cranking.

[rotar bones]

Originally Posted by Whizbang

no worries.

the wear issue comes from the metering oil pump being electronic. So if the car is off, and the motor is spinning, its not injecting oil. Now this is just for a moment, but those moments start to add up. If your premixing and older car it still has this issue since its not injecting fuel (and thus the oil mix). The carbs would suck fuel down on the vacuum and remain unburnt but washes the oil film.

Thinking about it, the only car you could probably get away with it would be an S4 car or a GSLSE that was EFI and mechanical MOP.

Either way, development of flooding issues is usually a sign of a problem. Moreover, the cars do have the anti-flood fuel cut from depressing the throttle fully while cranking.

Thank you for the ground level information and you restore my faith brother. I was in fear this site was just like that other one so many of us have jumped ship from thank you.

You are correct about the oil metering pump. I am pre mixing and have been for some time and I fully expect to buy a cat because of it possibly, but so be it. I premix because I believe mazda sacrificed lubricty for emmissions, that's just my call. I have never ever experienced any flooding wet starts or any thing of the like. Starts every time hot or cold any weather. It probably starts all the time because I am under the hood daily and it isn't my daily driver its my toy thing,Any way thank you for the response brother

[Sephitrask]

Most of the items here have been dealt with, going to touch on the two that haven't. The fuel pump primes before you even start the car, so waiting after doesn't make sense. The other one is an endless debate, but unless you are running a SOHN adapter synthetic oil is a big no-no for rotaries unless you like carbon buildup, which the Renesis is prone to anyway. Even Mazda says to stay away from it, and that says a lot

[rotar bones]

Originally Posted by Sephitrask

Most of the items here have been dealt with, going to touch on the two that haven't. The fuel pump primes before you even start the car, so waiting after doesn't make sense. The other one is an endless debate, but unless you are running a SOHN adapter synthetic oil is a big no-no for rotaries unless you like carbon buildup, which the Renesis is prone to anyway. Even Mazda says to stay away from it, and that says a lot

You are correct about the fuel pump but I figure I can do some thing like tis because it isn't hurting any thing to do so( sort of like putting your toung in your cheek before starting for the first time your build you did .). Iam not running a sohn adapter, and you are correct again that it is an endless debate ad you forgot to add, and not a winning argument on either side. The jury is out so to speak on the syn vs Dino debate. Carbon build up is a very important issue. I try to address that by running my about up to 8,000 rpm several times during my play time.

As far as mazda goes, what Mazda says and a buck will get you a cup of coffee, so you see I am not a believer of Stealer ships. I have been using syn oil for quite a while with no bad effect in fact my motor runs better than it did before I started using syn oil. I am going to pull my plugs this weekend and have a gander at the condition after so many thousand miles. I have a friend at Mazda Racing tha helps me out now and then no worries mate.