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RX-7 2nd Gen Specific (1986-92) RX-7 1986-92 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections. |
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03-21-2013, 10:36 PM | #1 |
Rotary Fanatic
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Starting engine while flooded
Im having an issue with my engine flooding if I dont start it and let it run for a bit once a day or so. The bad part is I have to be to work in the morning and nothing I do can seem to fix the problem this time. Ive been told my multiple people to pull fuses and crank the engine for a bit to get all the excess fuel out, the problem is Im being told to pull diffrent fuses by diffrent people. Some say the two under the hood (engine comp, and engine ign I think) and another says to pull one out of the fuse block inside the car. Does anyone know which of these should work, or if any of them will?
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03-21-2013, 11:00 PM | #2 |
No need for 5.0L
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Doesn't answer your questions but I usually pull the plugs out and crank it with the fuel pump fuse out.
Another thing I do is a hold the gas pedal to the floor and crank a few times. Now this is on an FD I don't if this will work on the FC |
03-21-2013, 11:24 PM | #3 |
RCC Addict
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Pull BOTH the "EGI" and "BTN" fuses.
What these does is kill power to the stock ECU and coils. If you pull just the EGI fuse, there's a 50 / 50 chance the rear coils will stop firing and reward you with a dead tach. Annoying. When you pull both the fuses, this prevents this from happening. -Ted |
03-21-2013, 11:55 PM | #4 | |
Rotary Fanatic
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Quote:
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03-22-2013, 01:08 AM | #5 |
RCC Addict
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Oops, yeah, that sounds better.
Sorry, I haven't run a stock ECU in ages. Mines runs a Haltech E8 now. -Ted |
03-22-2013, 08:42 AM | #6 |
Mazda Lover
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The pedal to the floor trick only works on an S5, not an S4
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2004 Mazda6 V6 5-spd - still waiting on money for a motor 1991 Mazda RX7 NA 5-spd - my new DD with 145,000 miles |
03-22-2013, 09:40 AM | #7 |
Rotary Fanatic
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Yeah.... about that. Turns out Im an idiot and unplugged my puel pump while removing the carpet from my hatch and didn't plug it back in. Luckily I noticed it this morning while transferring my tools to my other car though. Plugged it back in and it started right up. The good news is this has motivated me to get some new injectors so I wont have to worry about this problem anymore.
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03-22-2013, 11:16 AM | #8 |
Rotating Assembly
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Before you go and spend the few hundred dollars for new injectors, you should make sure that's the root cause. You could have low compression as well.
Also note you can have your injectors cleaned for around $17 each which includes return shipping. I used KGParts (the fuel injector part of the company is called http://injector-rehab.com/shop/home.php) and they turned them around very quickly. You might be able to find someone locally to clean them so you only have to take a day off unless they are open when you are off.
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90 S5 Vert. JDM Tii with BNR Stage1 turbo. Pineapple Racing street port. Bonez cat-forward. Corksport cat-back with Vibrant UltraQuiet resonator. RTek 2 wZeitronix w/b. HKS EBC. Vis CF Tii hood. 3000GT wing. Ground Control coilover kit with KYB AGX shocks. Red and Black leather RX8 seats. Corksport Odura lip & bumper caps, OEM Tii skirts |
03-22-2013, 08:47 PM | #9 |
Rotary Fanatic
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Well the engine is a fresh rebuild and actually runs/idles/pulls great. The guy I bought it from told me about the flooding issue when I got it and after having the car a month or so Im fairly certain its a leaky injector. Probably just going to get a set of rebuilt ones for the time being until I start putting in some serious mods and need bigger ones.
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03-23-2013, 07:43 PM | #10 |
Meat Popsicle
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Before I got my injectors rebuilt I use to unplug my fuel pump.
The connector is kinda by the drivers speaker tower, by the pump Just unplug it, then turn over till it starts then run like a mofo an try to plug it in before it dies again. hah So glad it doesnt flood anymore. But Ive pretty much replaced everything, so im not sure what fixed it unfortunately |
03-27-2013, 09:50 AM | #11 |
The Newbie
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It takes about 15 minutes to splice in a switch to the trigger wire on the fuel pump relay. It's right under the steering column. Iirc, I used a writeup on rotary resurrection's site. Easy and worked great. I'd turn off the pump right before I'd turn o ff the car and it would use some of the fuel in the rails and it'd be less likely to food the next time around.
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03-27-2013, 10:05 AM | #12 |
Gold Wheels FTW
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I would imagine that a similar solution to the problem from the RX8 could fix this as well... Faster starter and upgraded ignition coils. I remember that my FC was plagued with fouling out plugs etc, but it wasn't tuned correctly, so it ran pig rich.
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My Cars: 1974 RX4 Coupe 1991 FC3S RX7 - Sold 2003 ZZW30 MR2 (Rotary swap after RX8) 2004 SE3P RX8 (20B Swap in the works) |
03-30-2013, 09:20 PM | #13 |
rotaryevolution.net
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i'm curious where this revised starter for the early generations can be located..
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03-31-2013, 11:06 AM | #15 |
Rotating Assembly
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You really mean "2 kw" as an 2 kilowatt, right? That's the A/T starter. It's compatible with the M/T cars?
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90 S5 Vert. JDM Tii with BNR Stage1 turbo. Pineapple Racing street port. Bonez cat-forward. Corksport cat-back with Vibrant UltraQuiet resonator. RTek 2 wZeitronix w/b. HKS EBC. Vis CF Tii hood. 3000GT wing. Ground Control coilover kit with KYB AGX shocks. Red and Black leather RX8 seats. Corksport Odura lip & bumper caps, OEM Tii skirts |