Heat sink bung extender for wideband probe

[Oyvindjs]

Hi. I am soon to fit an Innovate LM-1 wideband and wire it up to my PFC. But, form doing some research, I see that the innovate probe can have a hassle with 1300F and above, throwing error codes, wich is basically rotary territory. Innovate site lists this unit to counter it:
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/x...cat=250&page=2

As i am trying to cut some costs abit where i absolutely dont need to spend money, in my head its possible to make one of theese.
Has anyone done it? And if so, how did you do it?


cheers

[RICE RACING]

I was the Australia sole distributor for Innovate:

I offer these insights:

They are total pieces of shit!!!!! Stay away from them, they are FLAKY, they are inconsistent, they are troublesome, they are junk.

There AFR lean spikes from misfires are total bullshit! only an issue with their logic controlling the sensor (not happening in any other brand).

I had at least one customer a day ringing me about "lean spike" problems and high temp sensor failures, in the end I did not need the headaches or like giving out BS excuses as to why they did not work where every other decent meter does work....

My tip to you

There is some stuff on your car you DO NOT SKIMP ON! AFR meters are one of them! as such stay away from crap like Innovate, and house build rubbish like Tech Edge!

The only meter I recommend people buy as permanent fitment and to trust for tuning is the NEKO AF700,



you can buy these at www.rhdjapan.com these use individually calibrated and rom chipped Neko lab grade sensors, they work in every application and will last you a life time of abuse. I run mine off the outlet of the turbo!!! it's done over 300hours of running and it is faultless, NOT CHEAP! but its faultless. Major BIG NAME brands like HKS tuning shops all over japan use Neko Corporation AFR instruments, end of story.

Trust me take my advice, its not worth guessing your AFR or fucking your engine BDC style over being cheap.

[RICE RACING]

IF you insist on using the Innovate then DO THIS:

Mount the sensor in the middle pipe just past the drivers door, just before the rear section of the exhaust. You will not need any heat bung and it will be o.k. there.

if you look on my web site under the water injection page, you will see a video of a Mazda Capella there and pay attention you will see it fitted with a LM-1 I sold to the owner, it was mounted as per my instruction and lived in that application o.k.

It still went through sensors at a radom rate, but cause I have hundreds of them in stock and he bought other stuff of me he got them cheap lol.

[RICE RACING]

Compared to a lab grade product the Innovate is within about 0.2 AFR, depends on how it likes to work on any given day really..........

Anyway those are my tips for you if you want to make it work on a rotary engine (any engine!)

[Oyvindjs]

Ah! Not fun info, but still, thanks for the info, i will give this a try, but have the Neko in the back of my head. I mean, i have it, and it cost a small fortune back then(6 years) when i bought it...

[RICE RACING]

Originally Posted by Oyvindjs

Ah! Not fun info, but still, thanks for the info, i will give this a try, but have the Neko in the back of my head. I mean, i have it, and it cost a small fortune back then(6 years) when i bought it...

No problem, hate to sound like a know it all, but there is shit I have done that cunts just would never know about

I actually developed the heat sink bung for innovate, my full solution was/is to have a specially machined copper disk that goes over the top of the HBX-1 (picture enclosed) and this allowed me on bench testing to get the tip of the HBX-1 to over 1250deg C! for over 30 minutes constant AFR sampling, done with a GAS TORCH! with BIG TIP!...... The cost proved too expensive for Klaus to justify offering them to people.





His ideas are nice, but the practice is the system he employs to control the sensor is fundamentally bad. (lean spikes and rapid sensor failures).

Mount the sensor as far back as possible Just past drivers door on FD is minimum.

[Oyvindjs]

Ok, so if i get you right, its not the tip itself that is the "weak" link, its the unit where the wires connect to the main bulk of the sensor, the metal housing etc? This gets too hot and throws off the AF/readings? Therefore, the heatsink copper unit, to
1. take the tip out of direct exhaust heat flow, and
2. prevent the heat from wandering up the sensor housing and up into the wiring section?

all in all, mounting it far back as you say, is the best and easiest solution. Ok, cool Thanks man