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RX-7 2nd Gen Specific (1986-92) RX-7 1986-92 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections. |
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07-29-2011, 08:40 PM | #1 | |
RCC Contributor
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Front bolt crush washer
I'm curious what's the best way to remove the copper crush washer on the front bolt? I tried tapping at it some with chisel, but didn't hit it too hard for fear of damaging the front bolt. Last thing I want is to slow my rebuild down even further.
Another question, is it ok to reuse the crush washer that's on there?
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Quote:
1990 Vert/ S5-JDM 13BT (rebuilt but with issues I'm working out). Rtek N370 1.7, 550/800 injectors, FD fuel pump, RB REV TII exhaust, Tein springs and Illuminas |
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07-29-2011, 10:23 PM | #2 |
RCC Addict
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It should come out with some gentle prying.
Is there any obvious physical damage? You're welcome to reuse it if you can re-anneal it? -Ted |
07-30-2011, 12:51 AM | #3 | |
RCC Contributor
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nope no damage at all. it's just on there nice and tight. I thought a flathead screwdriver would separate it from the bolt, but that didn't do anything. I tried tapping lightly with a chisel..but didn't want to get too aggressive. If it's a reusable part I figured it was better to leave it be than damage the washer AND have it seized on the bolt.
Is it possible that it was put on with some locktite from the factory?
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Quote:
1990 Vert/ S5-JDM 13BT (rebuilt but with issues I'm working out). Rtek N370 1.7, 550/800 injectors, FD fuel pump, RB REV TII exhaust, Tein springs and Illuminas |
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07-30-2011, 03:21 AM | #4 |
RCC Addict
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The FSM will officially say it's a replaced part.
The bolt will sometimes have a (maybe more?) staked mark to help keep the crush washer onto the bolt flange. This is probably what's keeping the crush washer in place. The washer isn't supposed to be Loctite'd down from the factory. -Ted |
07-30-2011, 06:23 AM | #5 |
Lifetime Rotorhead
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True, but if a previous owner had messed with it you can't be 100% sure of this. I'd soak it in some PB blaster, and keep at it with the flathead screwdriver. Might have better luck with a thinner blade screwdriver, or a stiff paint scaper blade.
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07-30-2011, 02:23 PM | #6 |
Rotary Fanatic
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i have had the washer stick too, and i will put a little sealant on it, and the threads.
i also like to use the S5 and 94-95 FD front bolt retaining tab thing n350-11-3?? it goes over the bolt and attaches to the front pulley. mazda DID use locktite, and 90lbs ft, and they STILL had problems with the bolt falling out so they went to 1,000,000lbs ft locktite and the retaining tab thing on the FD. -mike |
07-31-2011, 10:23 PM | #7 | |
RCC Contributor
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Let it soak in some PB Blaster and put it in the vice and tapped at it with a scraper and hammer. Light tapping separated it from the bolt. It looks like they did use a couple dabs of silicone sealant. There were two spots on opposite sides that matches the sealant used on the housing legs.
__________________
Quote:
1990 Vert/ S5-JDM 13BT (rebuilt but with issues I'm working out). Rtek N370 1.7, 550/800 injectors, FD fuel pump, RB REV TII exhaust, Tein springs and Illuminas |
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07-31-2011, 10:40 PM | #8 |
Test Whore - Admin
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Boil the crush washer for ~10 minutes and make sure it and the hub are perfectly clean. Put a THIN layer of grey RTV sealant on and you should be good to go. Has never leaked on me.
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