|
RX-7 2nd Gen Specific (1986-92) RX-7 1986-92 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections. |
Welcome to Rotary Car Club. You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today! If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact contact us. |
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
|
06-30-2011, 02:10 PM | #1 | |
RCC Contributor
|
Partially assembled engine, should I start over
I've made a few threads chronicling my assembly problems. Now I've got the engine partially assembled while waiting for replacement water seals and deciding what to do about a middle iron.
I've got assembly up to lowering the middle iron onto front housing. Rotor is in housing, e-shaft in place. All the seals are in place on all the irons and both rotors. Rubber seals (water seals, o-rings, etc) are all held in place with crisco. I've got all the compression surfaces smeared with petroleum jelly. My concern is whether the rtv on the legs between the front iron and front housing are going to seal properly. Do the stationary bolts need to be tightened down within some amount of time for the rtv to properly seal? I've read that crisco won't react with rubber seals and "swell" them, so I'm not worried about that. But should I pull the rotor out, remove the front housing, clean the rtv and start fresh?
__________________
Quote:
1990 Vert/ S5-JDM 13BT (rebuilt but with issues I'm working out). Rtek N370 1.7, 550/800 injectors, FD fuel pump, RB REV TII exhaust, Tein springs and Illuminas |
|
06-30-2011, 06:21 PM | #3 |
Test Whore - Admin
|
No. Put the rear iron on, torque the tension bolts, saftey wire the thing shut so when you pull the rear iron to puit the seals is the rtv doesn't let loose.
__________________
-The Angry Stig- DGRR 2009, 2011, 2012 & 2013 - Best FC DEALS GAP!! WOOHOOOO!!!!! 2015 Audi S4 - Samantha - Zero Brap S4 2004 RX8 - Jocelyn - 196rwhp, 19mpg fuel to noise converter 2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport - Wifey mobile - Now with 2.5" OME lift and 30" BFG AT KO's! So it begins 1998 Jeep Cherokee - 5 spd, 4" lift, 33" BFG's - Rotary Tow Vehicle 1988 'Vert - In progress 1988 FC Coupe - Gretchen -The attention whore BEAST! I'm a sick individual, what's wrong with you? I'm pure Evil I'm still insane, in the best possible way. I think Brian's idea of romance is using lube. Your rage caused the meteor strike in Russia. The Antichrist would be proud of his minion. You win with your thread. Most everything It's a truck with a steel gate on the back. Just a statement of fact Motec M820, AIM dash, ported 13B-RE Cosmo, 6-spd trans, 4.3 Torsen, custom twin wg fully divided mani, Custom 4" split into 2x 3" exhaust, Custom HMIC, Custom custom custom custom I like to welder stuff.... No Bolt-ons allowed. Dyno'ed @ Speed1 Tuned by me - 405rwhp on WG.... WM50 cuming soon. -Angry Motherf*cker Mode ENGAGED- |
06-30-2011, 10:21 PM | #5 | |
RCC Contributor
|
Just reread my thread...typo on stationary bolts...I meant tension bolts. I'm gonna start over just to be sure.
__________________
Quote:
1990 Vert/ S5-JDM 13BT (rebuilt but with issues I'm working out). Rtek N370 1.7, 550/800 injectors, FD fuel pump, RB REV TII exhaust, Tein springs and Illuminas |
|