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RX-7 2nd Gen Specific (1986-92) RX-7 1986-92 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections. |
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05-10-2011, 02:06 PM | #1 |
The Newbie
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Flywheels, Stock vs Lighten??
I have just recently changed my stock flywheel to a lighten aluminnum.
Now, I have not driven the car yet since there are a few more things to take of. The car was sitting for about two years. My question is what to expect for the lighten flywheel. Should I change the way I used to drive it?? |
05-10-2011, 02:08 PM | #2 |
Mazda Lover
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Are you NA or T2?
If NA, you will notice it may be harder to get started, same for T2 for that matter. If you have a T2, you have to be careful about keeping your revs up between shifts to keep boost, or you will notice lag like no other
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2004 Mazda6 V6 5-spd - still waiting on money for a motor 1991 Mazda RX7 NA 5-spd - my new DD with 145,000 miles |
05-10-2011, 02:53 PM | #5 |
Mazda Lover
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Yea, you can stall on take off if you aren't careful, less momentum, need to give it more gas than before. I personally don't have one, but the principal is the same with all cars and lightened flywheel, just the FC's are sensitive due to having no torque at idle
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2004 Mazda6 V6 5-spd - still waiting on money for a motor 1991 Mazda RX7 NA 5-spd - my new DD with 145,000 miles |
05-10-2011, 09:33 PM | #6 |
The quest for more torque
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As long as you have a reasonable clutch, you will be fine.
I have a stage 3+ Spec clutch in mine with a 12 lb steel flywheel (lightest turbo flywheel I could find) and it grabs a little. I drive the car every day and sometimes I stall it at stop signs (sometimes I leave rubber too). If the engine speed remains above 200 rpm when the clutch is up, the engine has no trouble picking up from 200 rpm, the issue is if you let the engine come to a complete stop. Basically tweiss is right, you will have to feather the clutch or rev the engine before engaging the clutch. The good thing about the light flywheel is that the engine will pick right up and go. The good thing about the stage 3+ clutch is that to launch all you need to do is shove the gas on the floor and let the clutch up gently when the revs pass 5500 rpm (don't try this with a weaker clutch). I had the car in to have it aligned a while back and the technician was having a lot of trouble keeping the car running driving up onto the alignment rack. I drive in the country most of the time, I seldom stop, so the setup works for me (don't even mention Chicago traffic please). I had a Fidenza (sp?) flywheel on my NA drivetrain (aluminum) and with a stage 1 clutch it was very drivable. I doubt that you will ever go back to the old flywheel after getting used to this one.
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1986 GXL ('87 4-port NA - Haltech E8, LS2 Coils. Defined Autoworks Headers, Dual 2.5" Exhaust (Dual Superflow, dBX mufflers) 1991 Coupe (KYB AGX Shocks, Eibach lowering springs, RB exhaust, Stock and Automatic) Last edited by NoDOHC; 05-10-2011 at 09:41 PM.. |
05-10-2011, 09:37 PM | #7 | |
The quest for more torque
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Quote:
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1986 GXL ('87 4-port NA - Haltech E8, LS2 Coils. Defined Autoworks Headers, Dual 2.5" Exhaust (Dual Superflow, dBX mufflers) 1991 Coupe (KYB AGX Shocks, Eibach lowering springs, RB exhaust, Stock and Automatic) |
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05-24-2011, 10:59 PM | #8 |
I have radioactive semen
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i used to have a streetported 12A with a light flywheel (and Stage 3 ACT) in my '84. it took all of a few hours to get used to it. i suppose we'd all adjust at our own rates, but it really shouldn't be a big deal. if you live in a really hilly (or rainy) area, then it may take some time.
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