Newbie in Rx7 FC

[kisaku1218]

I got some cash in hand now, and thinking buying a cheap FC to fix.

Problem is, I have deal with low end Honda/Nissan most my life and have 0 clue on RE, tons of my mate who mess with RE (mainly FD/Rx8) said even new RE is not as easy as it sound.....

*looking for a 87 body 91 eng/tran/ecu FC now for $1500 on craigslist.
not yet test drive, any problem I should be weary on 2nd gen FC?

*his engine photo on FC


*other




he claim it is 91 motor/trans/ecu/wiring harness, and something about u-joint problem......

many thanks for any advise.

[Ender]

To avoid confusion, RE is not appropriate shorthand for just any rotary engine.

I would definitely drive it before making any kind of decision on it, especially since it's Craigslist. The air pump is not connected (not sure if there are other outlets, I don't think there are, someone else will know that), you may not have fresh air running to the catalytic converter (assuming there is one) and the auxiliary port activators may not work, which can mean it will run poorly at WOT (wide open throttle) at higher RPM. I think I've heard there are other ways to hook those up so you can remove your air pump. If it does lack power up top I would guess that's a key reason and could possibly be a bargaining point to your advantage. These cars tend to have the same problems any old car does, poor electrical connections, leaking fluids, misalignment... but specifically for rotaries they can sometimes run, albeit poorly, with a blown motor. If it sounds really choppy and lacks decent power it could be blown, the easiest way to check this is to do a compression check, which if you don't do anything else I suggest you should at least do a compression check.

Do you have more information? I would find out why it was swapped for a later drive train to have damn near the same power output... Mileage? Crash history?

[RETed]

First of all, where are you located?
If you can't get access to replacement parts, don't get into it.

Second, but the pics, you're looking at a base model.
The manual crank windows give that away.
It does have a sunroof, so it's really nothing special.
I can't tell if the wheels are 4-lug or 5-lug?
It looks like 5-lug, but that doesn't make sense on a base model.
Sport model, perhaps?

Third, how much miles?

$1,500 is kinda high for an FC "with problems".
You should be able to get a "good, running" FC for that kinda money.
IMO, that car isn't worth more than $1,000.

The car is over 20 years old.
Lots of stuff fails in a 20+ year old car.
Are you willing to put up with that broken crap?
Most people aren't.
Replacement parts are getting hard to find, and / or the dealer is going to ream you for brand, new replacements.
As a rule, I budget an extra $1,000 just to fix everything on a pre-owned FC...
Can you stomach that?
It's a lot of money for a 20+ year old car...


-Ted

[kisaku1218]

I am located at Charlotte, NC, but as you all mention, replacement part are hard to find, I got a friend mess with FD and get blown engine by going to far for psi on single turbo, he have tons of experience with FD, but not FC.

As I ask him, only thing he tell me is just make sure eng/tran are good, other thing is easier to fix than replace, only thing that need to be replace is the eng/tran/clutch. Mechanical problem is much more serious and most likely if I pay attention to detail that electrical problem are minimum, and don't go too far on turbo..... :P

more photo for the car







in this area the sport car are not cheap, I am willing to travel as far as to TN to get a working fine sport car...but either people try to rip you off as soon as they know you in military, or they just can't take the offer and try to sell their junk car like gold.

deal are hard to find these days, even economy is this bad....

he mention that he swap eng/tran because blown motor
"The Good:91 motor/trans/ecu/wiring harness, runs great, subs, 5-speed, nice rims and tires, new fuel pump and fuel filter, ecu,starter, and new grounds, its my dd to school 30 minutes away everyday "

"The Bad:tear in driver seat, gas guage stoped working after i replaced the fuel pump, maybe i put the baffle in wrong idk, u-joint(can fix if wanted only $20 part but ive gotten use to it) "

below are his full post on c-list


COME GET IT NOW FOR 1500!! FIRM

Name: Jordan
Contact: email
Location: York SC


Vehicle Year/Make/Model:
* Miles:150,000
* Price:1800 OBO Trade for nice 240sx
* Title: Salvage or Clear? Salvage/Rebuilt due to fender bender only things replaced were the front bumper and radiator support

- Engine:13b Rotary
- Interior:Black
- Exterior:Primer Gray
- Stereo & Nav:aftermarket radio, subs
- Suspension:stock

The Good:91 motor/trans/ecu/wiring harness, runs great, subs, 5-speed, nice rims and tires, new fuel pump and fuel filter, ecu,starter, and new grounds, its my dd to school 30 minutes away everyday

The Bad:tear in driver seat, gas guage stoped working after i replaced the fuel pump, maybe i put the baffle in wrong idk, u-joint(can fix if wanted only $20 part but ive gotten use to it)

Really want to trade for a nice clean 240SX, five speed, dont care about a ton of mods just want something 5-speed thats clean and runs good

but basically its a 5-speed, its an 87 but it has a 91 engine/trans/ecu/wiring harness because the old motor went out, its all black interior, its got some nice 17 inch rims, black with chrome lip, wrapped in some falkens with alot of tread left, its got an aftermarket radio, its a nice little car runs good has new fuel pump, fuel filter, cone filter, ecu, starter, new grounds, i think the u-joint is going out but its a $20 fix and i can do it if you want, ive always run mid-grade in it, just got the oil changed at good year

[Lastphaseofthis]

Originally Posted by kisaku1218

i think the u-joint is going out but its a $20 fix and i can do it if you want, ive always run mid-grade in it, just got the oil changed at good year

well, this is how i would look at it.
it's a 5 speed. and an S5 engine, desireable somewhat.
it's missing flash to pass lens.. 50 dollars.
needs paint.
needs paint removed from turn signals.
maybe some new seats.
you joint. buy a new part(axle, or driveshaft) 100.


Do make sure you DO A COMPRESSION CHECK.
If is passes

offer him 1200 take 1300. welcome to the club.

if it fails, rebuild, 1000 off, you got a 300-500 dollar running blown.
it up to you to take it or leave it.

[RoughRex]

The car has a salvage title + problems, you can see from the pics that the owner is either lazy or just not a very good back yard mechanic. I'm extra leery of anything swapped S4 to S5 by someone like that. Due to all of that, the price is too high. Take Teds advice and offer him $1k (or less) or keep walking. You can do better with relative ease.

Also, you should know that there is no turbo on that car, for 2nd generation Rx7's (FC) only Turbo II cars are turbo charged.

[Ender]

Originally Posted by RoughRex

Also, you should know that there is no turbo on that car, for 2nd generation Rx7's (FC) only Turbo II cars are turbo charged.

Unless a turbocharger has been added, but from the pics you can clearly see there is no turbocharger in the engine bay.

[kisaku1218]

Can't running rich on turbo, I mean I got some turbo drive experience (240sx, Subaru Sti) but for my 1st ride of rotary no, the turbo is only need it for uphill power chaser.......

ask few friend for advise today, they tell me 1k can get a non turbo rotary with ok condition.....I give it a try tomorrow offer $900 out, and do c-check if fail offer $350

I am very happy what I see in here, some very experience guys(known the build and work it out) and not like some of my friend that never get hand dirty but drive insane build car.......

I give it a shot tomorrow morning! again many THXXXX!

BTW how cheap you guys think a turbo can be? gas is like $3 bucks here, I don't want to spend like $100 per few drive....that is insane.

or put it this way, how much I can get for $1500 bucks? a running turbo? or ok rotary? since this is my try out I don't want it be great, just great on mechanical is enough, don't care much on looks anyway, I can do fabrication myself.

[RoughRex]

$1500 should be able to get you a Non turbo in acceptable operating condition and in relatively good shape. You'd be getting a good deal on a Turbo car at that price... tack on at least another 1000 typically.

[RETed]

Salvage title?
I'd walk away from it now.

You SHOULD be able to get a clean title FC (non-turbo) for the same price.

If you're questioning the salvage title, go talk to your insurance company.
Tell them you're interested in insuring this vehicle and ask for a quote - mention the salvage title.
You'd be surprised how much the insurance company will jack up your premiums due to the salvage title.

Sellers will make all kinds of excuse and reason for a salvage title.
The insurance company does not like to insure salvage title vehicles - expect almost double (if not more) versus clean title vehicle of the same year, make, model.
There could be hidden damage that they don't want to tell you about.

The car is only worth it's major parts.
Basically, in my book, it isn't worth more than $500.
I wouldn't pay anything over $200 myself.

High mileage non-turbo FC's (anything over 100,000 miles) be careful of the transmissions.
The seller states 150k miles on chassis, but the engine / trans were swapped - do you know how much miles on them?
Seller could bullshit the actual mileage.

Also, I'm nervous of the swap...
He mentioned ECU / wiring / engine swap, which is the proper way, but...
S4 versus S5 electrical is not plug & play.
The harness plugs are different, and the wiring is different.
If you're good with electrical wiring, this isn't too big of a deal, but most people are NOT very good with electrical wiring.
This is a red flag...
I predict lots of electrical nightmare problems from this thing down the line.

Seriously, I'd walk away from this car...


-Ted

[My5ABaby]

Originally Posted by RETed

Seriously, I'd walk away from this car...

-Ted

+1 Walk away...

I was too antsy to get a 7 and walked into a poor deal (young and stupid). Don't do the same. There's just too many things that could be wrong with that car. I would agree that he sounds like a terrible mechanic so there's probably things hacked up all over that car.

[kisaku1218]

well guess some one as y/s (young&stupid) as they could be take that car with 1500......it said sold.

I got other offer coming, $1500 NA with clean title (yay!)
but still need to go check out what is the real deal, if I do get the car, maybe I make it first ever internet-base tune-up car....all information/tec are from this website, and I bet I can learn whole tons from people.



Below is what I got from e-mail, I delete the name for some privacy

I have a 1991 Mazda Rx7 non-turbo. The engine runs and It has been my daily driver back and forth to school. Car has never been wrecked and is in good shape.

It has power windows, power locks, automatic seat belts, and a sliding sun roof.

Interior is in good shape (black with leather seats). I have just replaced some of the interior pieces that were brittle and cracked with OEM standard pieces from Mazdatrix.

It’s a fun little car to drive. Its lightweight and handles great. My plans were to do a V8 swap using an LS1 and the Hinson Supercars swap kit, which would end up being a little pricey



A few of the upgrades to the car include a Racing Beat header, intake, short throw shifter, new clutch and pressure plate just installed, a new battery, electric fan, and a Koyo radiator.

The rx7 was originally white, but I am in the middle of restoring and painting the car, removing little dents here and there. We decided to do the prep work ourselves and car is currently in primer grey.

The attached picture is what it looked like before the white paint was removed.

Thanks and God bless,

J



and to REted, your advise are great and correct, I was learning a lot from your website

[Rotary Evolution]

Originally Posted by RoughRex

$1500 should be able to get you a Non turbo in acceptable operating condition and in relatively good shape. You'd be getting a good deal on a Turbo car at that price... tack on at least another 1000 typically.

a bit more actually. i don't remember the last time i saw a TII for less than $3k that was still running. $5k for a decent condition TII seems to be average these days.

yay for the drift kids totalling their FCs driving the value up to more than $1,5k!

[kisaku1218]

well after varies consideration (money, time, advise from friend etc)

I think is time to move on, I get a pretty good deal on a cheap honda (lol)
is 3rd gen prelude I know RX7 is the time of car I want, but sry since Apex seal, and so much other BS I have been told here and there, You basically can't fix an RX7 if you don't know how to take the engine out, most stuff related to it is just too complicated and time consuming. Honda, in other hand, cheap and you can just walk into junk yard and pull out TONs of used parts. (can't do that with RX7....sexy pays the price) that is why move me so much since my pocket is shallow.

I know I will back into RX7 one day, thanks all.

[Ender]

Originally Posted by Rotary Evolution

a bit more actually. i don't remember the last time i saw a TII for less than $3k that was still running. $5k for a decent condition TII seems to be average these days.

yay for the drift kids totalling their FCs driving the value up to more than $1,5k!

I bought my running TII for $1300 a few years ago. Had low enough compression that the motor went a year later though and it had body damage. They had done some nice things to it before I bought it though, such as new injectors and cleaned/treated the gas tank.